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Old 07-21-2010, 07:49 PM
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383 chevette

i just bought a 76 chevette with a vortec headed 383 stroker in it. i need headers that will work within the confines of the stock engine comparment wheel wells and all. my first post....nice site. thnx don.

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Old 07-21-2010, 08:15 PM
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Gnarly ... an sbc in a chevette. too cool for school
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:54 PM
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Block huggers are usually used in tight spaces, but you might be even tighter. It may take a custom made set.
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ballsout1
i just bought a 76 chevette with a vortec headed 383 stroker in it. i need headers that will work within the confines of the stock engine comparment wheel wells and all. my first post....nice site. thnx don.
I would start with a set of 1 3/4" fenderwell headers for any other application, then use my trusty Sawzall to cut away anything that gets in the way of the headers. No sheetmetal is worth more than a good set of equal length headers and the sheetmetal can be filled in later with scrap. Block huggers and other "shorter-than-full-length-headers" are worthless in my opinion and a total waste of good money.
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Old 07-22-2010, 06:58 PM
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i normally think like that but....the wheel wells are structural support for the front subframe and the shocks actually mount to the wheel wells. its a back half car and to really open up the front i would have to do a full cage with bars in the engine comparment giving me a shock mount and strucural support....i just got the car, havent driven it yet. i dont think i want to go that far now.
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Old 07-25-2010, 05:33 PM
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Normally I would agree with the inspector; but in this case, I'd go with the block huggers. Many of them are quite good in flow characteristics; not like equal length, but pretty decent.

You need the structure. And, lets' face it; unless you are building an all-out race car, you don't need all-out race headers. That engine will scare the hell out of you as is.

If you have a local speed shop, you might be able to talk them into letting you "try" them on your car (just holding them in place), or buy them with the possiblity of returning them if they don't fit. They'll probably be OK.

Finally, if that's not good, take pictures, make measurements, and contact Sanderson Headers. They are pretty good with making odd-ball ( nothing personal) headers, to fit unique situations.
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Old 07-25-2010, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalesy
I'd go with the block huggers.
With all due respect to you dalesy, they're junk. Might just as well use cast iron logs. Just my opinion.
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:38 PM
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" i need headers that will work within the confines of the stock engine comparment wheel wells and all."

NO, you don't.

Find a 82 -92 Camaro with a 2.8/auto, they're cheap and swap that into the Chevette, put the stroker into the Camaro.

Save your sanity, time and money, a Chevette IS a rolling beer can, unsafe at any speed.
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldBodyman
" Save your sanity, time and money, a Chevette IS a rolling beer can, unsafe at any speed.
I couldn't agree more. A Chevette or I should say Pontiac T1000 is the reason I can barely walk most days.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:49 AM
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All that said, I agree with these guys. The Chevette is basically just a cracker-box. I was trying to help you make a neat little rod out of what you have. For a million years, it's been said "you can put anything into anything, given the time and inclination." That doesn't exactly mean that it's a good idea. But, if you'll look back to some of these conversions done in the past, you'll see that most of the serious ones were done using an aftremarket chassis (Alston, Morrison, etc) incorporated into the Chevette body.

That little unibody lacks the stiffness and/or the metal to make it really viable and above all, safe, for some real performance duty.

I'd keep it mild and simple, or do some chassis work. Don't get yourself hurt.

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Old 07-26-2010, 08:18 AM
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Here's exactly what NOT to do, a Caddy 502 in a Chevette:

502 Chevette

that's not hot rodding, it's reckless endangerment.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:24 PM
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we`ve drifted off topic abit but everybody`s input is appreciated. i`ve got quite of bit racing experience and have worked as a auto tech or the past 30 years.. the chevette isnt going to be real fast i`m actually shooting for 6.5`s or so 8th mile and have a car i can pro street. i`ve got a 5000 stall ready to go and i`m putting in 4.56`s or 4.88`s in the dana. i`ve got a turbo 350 that i will manual valve body and tranny brake. realistically in a 2600 lb car with driver i should only need 425 to 450 hp to run my goal. i doo need some at least shorty`s with a 1.75 tube and a 3" collecter. i think i`m gona buy up some flea market headers maybe something alog the lines of early nova stuff or s`10and set em in and chop em up and re weld.. winter project. my partner is a chassis guy.. he`s got a bender. probably re fab a finnished header after the cobbed up prototype is done. thats my plan right now.. not a good one but a plan. i`d rather just buy a set up.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:36 PM
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Yikes!

Okay, so now that you've made it clearer what your goal is, I think our advice is easy. Stick with whoever suggested that you need to look at a full chassis to put under that soda can. Otherwise, you would have built a ride that WILL rip itself to pieces on the first run! In other words, a death trap.
But, good luck.
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Old 07-27-2010, 07:41 AM
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I think the only 'drifting off-topic' we did was to try to give you the benefit of our years of experience, to try and discourage you from doing something that you 've already obviously made up your mind you want to do.

You've made your choice; now you're going to have to live with it.

That car could be a street driver; but with the engine, the gears, the converter and everything you have.....without the benefit of some type of chassis.....that thing will twist itself up into a pretzel. You need to do some more homework.
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Old 07-27-2010, 04:28 PM
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ok , maybe i`m in denial. some background. car is back halfed and has a 6 point cage in i. the previous owner had it on spray and the doors still line up and theres no wrinkles in the roof. when i first looked at the car i thought a full cage would be a option with the forward bars strengthening the engine support but.. then i thought i only want to run 425 hp or so. anyways i`ll be abit more careful as i proceed.
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