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I was wondering how much horse power one could create on chevy 350 stroked to a 383 2 bolt mains before one would have problems.
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You can probably go to 450 ponies without having to worry about having a problem. Anything above that I would get some splayed 4-bolt caps, and she would be good past 600 horsies. Oh, and it would'nt be a bad idia to go with a fully balanced rotating assembly to ensure that you don't find pieces of your crankshaft in the ditch somewhere.
Keep on roddin! <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" /> |
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I say using good parts and put together correctly 500hp is on the edge.On the GM site under engines comparison chart will give you a very good Idea on any block.
www.spoperformanceparts.com [ November 11, 2002: Message edited by: 1BAD80 ]</p>
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Luv the smell of NITRO in the morning. |
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G.M. rates thier 2 bolt blocks to handle 525+ hp. If you balance the assembly you can handle more yet.Never underestimate the strength of a SBC. In all my years building and baggin' them, I've never seen a main bearing failure on a SBC. Only after a rod cratered and material made its way to a main.
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For the life of me I can't remember the name of it but there is a frame/bracket that mounts to the main bolts that connects ALL the main caps together. From what I have heard it makes a 2 bolt stronger then a 4 bolt.
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[quote]Originally posted by JamesP:
<strong>For the life of me I can't remember the name of it but there is a frame/bracket that mounts to the main bolts that connects ALL the main caps together. From what I have heard it makes a 2 bolt stronger then a 4 bolt.</strong><hr></blockquote> Stud Girdle, and yes it will sturdy things up. A big factor in the strenght of the block is the rpm that the power will be made at. Inertia loads become very great at high rpm. Usually more than the force of the crank rotation itself. You could THEORETICALLY make 800HP at 5000 RPM and be better off than 500 HP at 8000RPM due to inertia loads of the spinning parts. My point is watch the RPM, it is a killer on parts. Chris |
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If the engine is strictly for the street then 2 bolt is more than adequate. If it is for the street and strip 2 bolt is more than adequate. If it is strictly for the strip and you plan on putting out more than 600 horses then go with a 4 bolt. Some people swear that for the street they have to have a 4 bolt main. These are the same ones that pull in to the gas station and fill up with high test gas. Ask them why..."because I have a high performance engine and I have to have high test gas" Okay!!! Anyways if it is built right you won't have problems at all. If it's not built to specs then it doesn't matter whether it's 2 bolt or 4 bolt.
Kevin |
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It is never a logical problem. The SBC will hold as much HP as it is practical to build with an SBC. When you start needing more than 500hp, you are in BBC range anyway because of the cost of building really high HP in a small displacment motor.
I am driving a 383 with probably something north of 450 street tame hp with 2 bolts. Absolutely spend money on a good setup, meaning balancing, watch your deck height and piston to head quench. It makes a great street motor with minimal front end weight. |
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Well, first off hello to all you Hot Rodder types out there. I had almost given up hope of intelligent and KNOWLEDGEable conversation on the internet, and stumbled in here and wow!
I just happen to be a big fan of 383s and have built several dozen of them in the last 5 or so years, mostly for dirt racers (IMCAs, and Sportsmans), but I have one in my Chevelle (600 HP on the dyno w/ a 2 bolt main), and one in my truck (car hauler w/ 2 bolt main) as well. I see lots of really good points in this thread, specifically balancing the assembly as in fully balancing it. I personally only use ARP or Miloden Studs, strictly because they really help eliminate cap walk (for the most part), and I would suggest ARP Moly Rod Bolts as well. I have seen the 2 bolt main blocks fail in race cars, but then again, I see lots of blown up 4 bolt blocks as well. I also almost always see cracking around the webs on any race small block that has been run all year, suprisingly the 4 bolt ones occassionally as well. You can definately tell whos car is hooked up suspension wise and whos not. :-) As long as you pay attention to details, check everything twice, and then check it again, you are good to 500 HP easily, provided your assembly is properly balanced, and put together with studs. Yes! Watch your Deck Height, and double check all of your clearances, especially with the 6 inch rods. Yes again, TurboS10 is dead on with the RPM advice. It definately kills parts fast. Good Luck to you. |
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Thanks to everyone for all the help. You have answered my question very thoroughly. Rich
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