I just finished building my .060 over 402. I have done numerous engines over the years. I have a engine machine shop with a local high performance following. The high performance part is not really necessary but a reputable business that you can verify their quality work is essential.
I would use a 4 bolt main truck block. These are still in plentiful supply and relative inexpensive. send the block to the machine shop and pay him to check the mains and cam journals and block deck surfaces straightness. Have him check the crank centerline to deck. Everything should be within tolerance. Have him bore the block as necessary and hone it. Have him vat the block and install all new screw in oil gallery plugs and brass freeze plugs. and cam bearings, almost forgot.
Buy a crank, rods and pistons and moly rings as a balanced set. Have your guy fit the rings and set up uniform clearances on your bearings within factory spec.
Buy your heads complete with valve springs compatible with your cam. You can't save money here by buying them bare. A 3 angle valve job is fine for a street car and most racers. I thought a 3 angle was a waste of money for a street engine because you are talking about a very small amount of flow for the dollar spent.
Decide what you are going to use your engine for. If it is a street engine with a few blasts at the strip once a month, don't waste you money on a bilit crank. I like scat or renegade forged cranks. They are cheap and are better than most. You can build a pretty strong engine with a 350 forged truck crank. Buy scat or renegade H-beam rods. These are cheap and stronger than you will likely ever need. Buy Forged pistons. This is the most expensive part but the most critical. If you buy forged pistons, rods and crank, you can plop a blower or big nitrous on it any time as long as you keep the compression around 10 to 1.
Buy a quality set of aluminum heads. The old style heads, even double humpers are poor breathers compared to modern heads. I have a set of 65 dbl hump heads in the garage. They are so tiny. I will use them on a 32 coupe that will never be raced.
With all this said, if you are not going to race this thing much and never use nitrous, use the block you have, a stock crank, stock forged rods, hyperutechnic pistons and some iron dart heads. This will build you a stong engine that will be fun for less than $2,000 total.
Just don't ever drop one of the pistons on the concrete. It will shatter like glass. Like a dummy, I bought not one but 2 like this, this year.
I'm sure I missed something but get you a good book and read it thoroughly before you start.
backyard71nova said:
do you think i should just build a 383 out of the 3970010 350 i already have 2 bolt main, would this be better? there is a local hot rod shop that builds engines,they are top gun racing. i have no clue what it would cost to do this.i want a solid engine that will run for years to come. p.s. what about the 5 angle valve job, is this a good idea..............................help!