[Tech @ BG]

Originally Posted by ericnova72

Tech @ BG is right, I've seen these power valve gaskets split like this too. To someone not familiar with the gasket, it splits so good that it almost looks like it is two gaskets, but it exactly matches Tech's explaination. I never knew what the cause was however, thanks for the info.

Best we have been able to tell it was a bad batch of gaskets. Not really a good way to test them unless we have a run show up real rich and pull one down but like I said I am pretty sure Holley gets theirs form the same vendor as us as well. I have some on my shelf for training purposes that look just like the one that the op posted that came out of his Holley.

[Tech @ BG]

Btw to the op this will cause one to be rich at idle like you found as it is just like leaving the pv loose. The 2 halves do not seal so fuel leaks past them.

[OLNOLAN]

Carburetor defects can drive even a good carburetor man nuts. If the SOB is new, none of this crap is supposed to happen. I've got a 3310 750 that has the flaking metal issue(which turns in to a corroded POS)metal is so pitted up its junk. I was blaming it on the eythanol blended gas, till I picked up on the defect issue. Wonder if I could proof of purchase get a new carb?
LOL, You gotta use CHERRY chapstick on them gaskets, not just any chapstick. Ha olnolan

[OLNOLAN]

Oh, I forgot, good call Cobalt327.olnolan

[Tech @ BG]

Originally Posted by OLNOLAN

Carburetor defects can drive even a good carburetor man nuts. If the SOB is new, none of this crap is supposed to happen. I've got a 3310 750 that has the flaking metal issue(which turns in to a corroded POS)metal is so pitted up its junk. I was blaming it on the eythanol blended gas, till I picked up on the defect issue. Wonder if I could proof of purchase get a new carb?
LOL, You gotta use CHERRY chapstick on them gaskets, not just any chapstick. Ha olnolan

My understanding from outside of the building was that the ones corroding were made with zinc from China that had a lot of lead content. Here is a link that may help you with the one you have.

http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=174

[cobalt327]

It sounds like the supplier used TWO sheets of less thickness to form the gasket and depended on the press/punching of the gasket to hold the two pieces together.

[Tech @ BG]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

It sounds like the supplier used TWO sheets of less thickness to form the gasket and depended on the press/punching of the gasket to hold the two pieces together.

Not a gasket maker but that may be the case. Look real hard at the pictures he posted at the exposed sides and you will see the white fibers I was referring to. Maybe they punched out the thinner gaskets and then glued them together or the two sheets where glued together then punched out. Looking at the ones I have here the white fibers appear to be glue but then you can take each half and break them down further into many layers as well by separating them with a finger nail.

[OLNOLAN]

[QUOTE=Tech @ BG]My understanding from outside of the building was that the ones corroding were made with zinc from China that had a lot of lead content. Here is a link that may help you with the one you have.

http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=174[/QUOTE

Hey BG/Tech, Thanks, I might call summit and get my invoice # cause it was bought right in that time span. One of them shiny zinc thangs. When it started giving me issues and found the corrosion. I went dug a real old double pumper outa my junk pile, cleaned and kit, works good. Made when Holley still did em right.
Oh, I thought the CHERRY chapstick was for cork gasket release and the blue ones were specifically marketed as reusable/non stick? What's your take on it, or were you born yet when us oldudes were using the cork?
Tanks in advance.olnolan

[Tech @ BG]

[QUOTE=OLNOLAN]

Originally Posted by Tech @ BG

My understanding from outside of the building was that the ones corroding were made with zinc from China that had a lot of lead content. Here is a link that may help you with the one you have.

http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=174[/QUOTE

Hey BG/Tech, Thanks, I might call summit and get my invoice # cause it was bought right in that time span. One of them shiny zinc thangs. When it started giving me issues and found the corrosion. I went dug a real old double pumper outa my junk pile, cleaned and kit, works good. Made when Holley still did em right.
Oh, I thought the CHERRY chapstick was for cork gasket release and the blue ones were specifically marketed as reusable/non stick? What's your take on it, or were you born yet when us oldudes were using the cork?
Tanks in advance.olnolan

hah.. I remember the old cork ones and hated them. Lots of clean up time to scrape all the pieces off. Not sure on the blue ones as ours are red but it really depends on how long they sit up dry after being wet as to how non-stick they are. We've seen guys put all kinds of stuff on them though even including spraying them with Pam.

[cobalt327]

I've used PTFE resin in powdered form to make gaskets (not just carb) non-stick. It works well in most cases- and is better than nothing in ALL cases.

The powder I use came from a pyro supplier (it is used in some hyper-burst comps). It is also available from piano tuner/supply outlets. McMaster-Carr carries it in a 14 oz. aerosol, ~$10.00/ea. Better to my way of thinking, is to get it in 'bulk', that is, non-aerosol- just a container of the PTFE powder.

For carbs, I've used it w/chapstick, tallow, lard, spray and liquid adhesive, "neat", white grease, vaseline, Pam, etc. All worked acceptably except neat and the adhesives. Don't use silicone or hylomar.

A light coating of one of the above followed by a thorough coating of the powder will suffice. But the surfaces must be clean, w/no old gasket material left behind- at all.

It sometimes helps to have the carb warm when it's disassembled- this is true whether or not the gaskets have been treated, and seems to work the best w/the "non-stick" gaskets.

Just DO NOT warm a carb in your food oven! A hot air gun will suffice. Try it on a bowl and see if it helps. If it does, use it for the remaining gaskets.

[dklong]

try a different ignition module , it almost sounds the module is'nt changing the dwell with the engines rpm's. it's rare to get 2 bad carbs , especialy 2 different name brands or try another distributor.or maybe try dropping the feul pressure down 1 or 2 psi.

[price]

Put an Edlebrock carb on the engine and use the Holley for a paper weight.LOL