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Old 03-06-2010, 03:42 PM
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383 engine build help

Ok guys ive been reading this forun for a while but im not very knowledgable about engines or vehichles in general, so i did not join. I need a bit of help with my 383 build for my 81 gmc swb daily driver. Right now i have a balanced 383 kit that will be 10.7:1 comp with 64cc head. i need help choosing heads and a cam. I need a pair of decent heads for about $1200 or so assembled. I have been looking at rhs 220cc or 235cc intake runner. I do not even know where to begin with cams, but would like a cam that would like to be revved and has a mean sounding idle.

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Old 03-06-2010, 03:51 PM
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Welcome to the site, If you use our search function type in 383 sbc build you will find all kinds of things on this build. Just a thought or someone will come along shortly and help you out i am sure. even better click the link i provided and you will find some info for you there. .
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sear...archid=3345687 .

Cole
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Old 03-06-2010, 05:43 PM
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thanks for the guidance

thank you for your for the guidance. im looking for a bit more personal guidance tho because like i said i nknow almost zip about engines.lol so what about edelbrock victor jr heads? they seem to be a good head. on another thread someone post flow numbers and i believe they out flowed afr's
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Old 03-06-2010, 06:34 PM
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anyone

anyone??????
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:14 PM
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There are as many head recommendations as there are guys who give them- lots!

Personally, I'd shoot for a CR of no more than 10:1- this will influence what cam you choose, as will the weight, intended usage, power level desired, rear gear ratio, tranny and/or torque converter choice, fuel available or desired, etc.

Before you start buying parts, sit down and list your parameters as well as your budget.

From that, we can make a stab at what you have for options.

And as suggested, reading the various (dozens, literally) of posts that have had a LOT of thought put into them AFA engine combos will do a LOT to get you up to speed on engines in general, and the 383 stroker in particular.

Hit 'Search' and let the questions begin! lol
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:41 PM
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umm

ummm the truck weighs about 4000lbs. I am looking to get 450-500hp using premium pump. The transmission and rearend would be built to handle the hp....but as i said im in the dark as far as vehichles go
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:53 AM
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All you fellows want to start at the wrong end of the truck. Start at the rear, put some gears in, then a locker, then do some suspension work, then some tires and wheels, then move forward to do some transmission work. Do the converter last, after you have chosen the cam.

Cobalt said limit the motor to 10.0:1 and that's real good advice. Choose the heads based on the cubic inches and intended purpose. Cubic inches divided by 2 will yield the intake runner size you might want to shoot for on a street/strip motor. (190). On a 10.0:1 motor, you'll want to use a cam with about 230-240 degrees duration at 0.050" tappet lift. Depending on the lobe separation angle you use, there may not be enough manifold vacuum to properly operate the power brakes on the truck, so take that into consideration. There are electric vacuum pumps available as well as reservoirs that will store enough vacuum from one stopping episode to another, so it's not the end of the world, just something to think about.

You'll want to use a whole lot of ignition timing with a longer cam and the motor may try to kick back against the starter when you go to start it, so you may have to install a momentary switch to kill voltage to the coil while you get the motor spinning with the key switch, then release the momentary switch to provide juice to the coil and the motor will start right up, no big deal.

Building any vehicle/motor is a balancing act. You have to juggle what parts you want to use and make a decision as to what you want to give up and what you want to get.

I'm just ramblin' on about this and that. There's a whole lot of this and that to building a truck.
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Old 03-07-2010, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
All you fellows want to start at the wrong end of the truck. Start at the rear, put some gears in, then a locker, then do some suspension work, then some tires and wheels, then move forward to do some transmission work. Do the converter last, after you have chosen the cam.

Cobalt said limit the motor to 10.0:1 and that's real good advice. Choose the heads based on the cubic inches and intended purpose. Cubic inches divided by 2 will yield the intake runner size you might want to shoot for on a street/strip motor. (190). On a 10.0:1 motor, you'll want to use a cam with about 230-240 degrees duration at 0.050" tappet lift. Depending on the lobe separation angle you use, there may not be enough manifold vacuum to properly operate the power brakes on the truck, so take that into consideration. There are electric vacuum pumps available as well as reservoirs that will store enough vacuum from one stopping episode to another, so it's not the end of the world, just something to think about.

You'll want to use a whole lot of ignition timing with a longer cam and the motor may try to kick back against the starter when you go to start it, so you may have to install a momentary switch to kill voltage to the coil while you get the motor spinning with the key switch, then release the momentary switch to provide juice to the coil and the motor will start right up, no big deal.

Building any vehicle/motor is a balancing act. You have to juggle what parts you want to use and make a decision as to what you want to give up and what you want to get.

I'm just ramblin' on about this and that. There's a whole lot of this and that to building a truck.
I see there's more than one Phoenician that has a late bed time . Although I'm sure my opinion carries very little weight because of my noob status on the board, I can tell you from personal experience that this is dead on. My 4600lbs 305 truck is a lot more spirited than you would imagine thanks to a 3.73 14bolt sf with a locker and the steep first gear of the 4l60e as opposed to the 4l80e (3.06 v 2.48 respectively) gives it a lot of get up and go for what it is.

It may not be fun doing all the stuff you should do first before you put your hot new motor in, but it will save you a thousand potential headaches. Plus, it's going to have to be done anyways.
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:18 PM
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anyone?

can anyone provide .a bit more info on how to build a solid 383 that will make 450-500hp on pump?
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:33 PM
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ok sorry guys i was in the process of posting when u guys posted. i guess i will start at the back. i guess i got ahead of myself wanting to build a ****** engine while my truck was away for paint and body.
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:37 PM
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here is a link for you to check out link I really like combo 15 & 16
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastlyschriefer
ok sorry guys i was in the process of posting when u guys posted. i guess i will start at the back. i guess i got ahead of myself wanting to build a ****** engine while my truck was away for paint and body.
See, here's the deal. Oftentimes if you start at the back and do gears and suspension and tires first, you find that the performance has increased so dramatically that you don't need to open the motor up. This makes things better in several ways, the motor stays fuel-efficient and emissions-clean and you don't spend quite so much money.
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