[jaw22w]

This HEI has an adjustable vacuum can. Will this limit vacuum adv or just change the tip in point?

[jaw22w]

A little experimentation answered my question. The adjustable can only affects tip in, not total advance.

[Custom10]

Originally Posted by jaw22w

TDC has been verified. I just tried stiffer springs. It's getting better. Need stiffer springs yet. It seems that with the mech adv limited, the advance comes on quicker than before limiting. I'm slowly getting there.

The limit screw should have no effect on the starting point of mech advance only the end travel. One good not worn or stretched heavy spring and one light and the mechanical should not move till approx 900 rpm.

Vacuum advance needs a limit too, crane plate shown, second or third notch gives approx 14 Deg max vac advance or make one.

Adjustment screw on can only changes tip in not limit. Turn it all the way in carefully and then back out 7 turns after you install limiter plate, start from there. You need to change the base timing each time after installing or changing the notch on the limiter plate as the limiter moves the reclutor in relation to the pickup. I think these have a vacuum advance of almost 20 out of the box, that is why skip does not want you to go there, you will kill the motor with too much advance.

You can try and dial the idle/carb in with vacuum advance connected to manifold, turn the canister screw in all the way so that the 10-11"wg engine vacuum pulls the can all in, dont try and set the idle with the vacuum advance floating in the middle of its range with this cam.

Also again I think you are going to need more than a 72 jet on the primary.

If the thing wont idle than with less than 40 deg advance then you have other issues, distributor mods to mech and vacuum advance may not fix this just lessen the problem. Has this motor ever ran right?

Look closer at the carb/fuel/air delivery

[Custom10]

These are pics of the crane vacuum advance limiter plate they are cheap, or if you can make one that will duplicate the effect of holding the end of the vacuum canister rod approx 13mm from the center set screw then have at er. This will give you about 12-14 total advance via vacuum.

[jaw22w]

I think I have the springs and limit worked out on the mech adv now. At least I am very close. I am now in the process of fabricating an adjustable screw for the vacuum advance. Where should I start with the can adjustment, 7 turns out or all the way in?
Now it seems to idle pretty well. initial@ 20, mech @14, but I still would like to see about 24-26 initial and about 10 mech. With 10-12* vacuum adv, this would give me about 34-36* at idle (manifold vacuum). This is the range where it idles really well and would give me 34 total,(initial plus mech.)
One problem still persists. When I drop it in gear, it wants to die. Am I running into the transition slot thing?
The motor is brand new and does not run bad. I don't think there are any issues other than getting the timing worked out and carb adjustment.
I can't take it out for a drive yet, as it is a roadster, the roads are wet with snow, and it is very cold. I will try the jet change before I take it out.
It is supposed to be in the 50's this weekend, and I should be able to take it out for a drive.
Thanks for your attention and help custom10 and cobalt 327.

[Custom10]

How many miles on this mill? are we working on a virgin?

dont need to fabricate a allen wrench for the can adjustment do you?

Its is cold here too, if I could dig out the C10 from under the snow I would send you my dist, but please dont mess it up. ha

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by jaw22w

One problem still persists. When I drop it in gear, it wants to die. Am I running into the transition slot thing?

Usually you wouldn't be into the transition slot w/that much initial timing. But I suppose the possibility exists.

Start by readjusting the idle mixture screws. Do that first and see what it runs like. If that doesn't help enough, the easiest way to see what the t-slot looks like is to remove the carb and turn it over (careful of the fuel coming out of it).

Hopefully the problem isn't a too-tight torque converter. Does it try to pull through the converter when at a stop, foot on the brakes?

[Custom10]

Could be chasing some tails/tales here, lets get to the problem OP.

[jaw22w]

Chasing tales? Less than 100 miles on engine.
I have it idling in nuetral and in gear now.
Initial @ 25*, mechanical limited to 9*, vacuum limited to 14*
idle screws adjusted to best idle.
Idle with manifold vac @39* vac@48*all in by 2800
I will jet up now to 76's and take it for a ride this weekend.
Carb has a .35 squirter in it. I have a .37 and a .40. Should I also increase the squirter for the hesitation? This hesitation is not apparent sitting still, so I don't know if it is still there or not.
Thanks guys. Jim

[cobalt327]

Be sure the accelerator pump linkage has no play in it at idle, and that you have 0.015" play at WOT. If the curb idle screw has to be turned in a lot further than normal, position #2 on the cam may help- but this isn't usually the case.

Other than that, the shooter size or pump cam change may help, but only if it stumbles right off idle at the hit of the throttle. Above that- like if it continues to run rough w/the gas pedal not moving- it's not going to help changing the pump settings. And like you said, you need to be driving it to really tell what the pump needs anyway (other than the baseline settings I mentioned above, that is).

Get a fresh set of plugs that you can read after you jet the carb. The ones in it now may be pretty sooty by now w/all the idling.

BTW, your engine looks to be a well thought out combination. Many will question the Procomp parts, but I suspect many do not have any real experience w/them and are only repeating what they've read somewhere. I personally haven't owned a set of them, so I'm not really in any position to say much one way or the other except that I have seen them run very good at the track.

[Custom10]

Originally Posted by jaw22w

Chasing tales? Less than 100 miles on engine.
I have it idling in nuetral and in gear now.
Initial @ 25*, mechanical limited to 9*, vacuum limited to 14*
idle screws adjusted to best idle.
Idle with manifold vac @39* vac@48*all in by 2800
I will jet up now to 76's and take it for a ride this weekend.
Carb has a .35 squirter in it. I have a .37 and a .40. Should I also increase the squirter for the hesitation? This hesitation is not apparent sitting still, so I don't know if it is still there or not.
Thanks guys. Jim

How did you limit the vacuum adv to 14 deg?

[jaw22w]

Cobalt327, can you elaborate on the setting of the accelerator pump. I guess I do't see how there can be .015 play at WOT?
I really appreciate you guys working with me on this. I don't see a thank you button or I would use it.
Jim

[Custom10]

Originally Posted by jaw22w

Cobalt327, can you elaborate on the setting of the I don't see a thank you button or I would use it.
Jim

Thats a classic, good luck Jim.

[Custom10]

Originally Posted by jaw22w

Cobalt327, can you elaborate on the setting of the accelerator pump. I guess I do't see how there can be .015 play at WOT?
I really appreciate you guys working with me on this. I don't see a thank you button or I would use it.
Jim

Whoops let me rephraze that,,,dangers of cut and paste hot rodding

[jaw22w]

Custom10. I made a small L bracket from 16 gauge sheetmetal, about 1/2" long on each leg, with a hole in one leg of the L. I threaded the hole to 8-32. Then I welded the other leg of the L to the vac adv base plate with the hole looking at the vac rod. Then screwed the 8-32 x 1" bolt in so that it would limit the movement on the rod. Then used a lock nut to lock the 8-32 bolt. Now I can screw the bolt in or out to limit the vac adv to whatever I want. Does this make sense to you?