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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2012, 11:09 PM
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One thing restoring a old car that hasn't moved in ten +years has taught me is a acceptance for RAT **** and a higher tolerance for SPIDERS!!!

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 03:48 PM
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You might benefit from a MSD Boost retard. If this is driven on the street and requires a curve to react to different driving. Made all the difference in my truck after I gave in to the purchase. You can go max timing and have no detonation. My detonation began at around 4-5000rpm. Making only 5 psi boost. No matter how the mixture was enriched or timming reduced it did not solve the problem completely. The BTM solved the problem my engine was experiencing, and allows maximum power extraction in the package.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:47 PM
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i do have one more question when checking my volts from the starter terminal im not getting enough to start the car i am planing on replacing the battery cables tonight in hopes to corect this problem i was wondering if anyone has done this on this model vette and if they had any advice for me thanks
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2012, 01:02 PM
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My 81 had starter issues when I bought it. I replaced the started with a super high torque starter. The battery is in stock location behind seat.using stock wires.so far problem fixed.also using the best battery I could fit in
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:41 PM
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ive replaced the starter already all 15lbs of it , car still wont start i have a optima red top in it brand new now the only thing i can think of is its the battery cables they dont look super hard to replace but ive thought that about a lot of things on a car and been wrong , the positive has been replaced before so it leads me to think that its had this problem before
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2012, 05:06 PM
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Run the battery + circuit in parallel. make the two red positives from bat to starter the same gauge and conect from the same places. Voltage will stay the same amps will double. It is ohms law.

Check the ground.
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:27 PM
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Ok so I rechecked the volts I'm getting 12.45 from the positive and 12.3 from the purple silanoid wire when I go to crank , the battery is resestering 12.45 and the starter bench test fine so I'm stumped why it's not cranking . Plz HELP I can't figure it out
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2012, 10:29 PM
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Cable are bad. I had the same problem. Replaced starter and battery and nothing. Turned out to be a stupid $10 cable.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:19 PM
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Really I bought the cables but it's testing fine I'm gonna try and test the ignition tomorrow but I think u may b right cuz I know it doesn't take but one thread of copper to make my muiltimeter go off but it may not have enough to hit the starter
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Old 08-06-2012, 12:06 AM
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Really I bought the cables but it's testing fine I'm gonna try and test the ignition tomorrow but I think u may b right cuz I know it doesn't take but one thread of copper to make my muiltimeter go off but it may not have enough to hit the starter
Yep, everything will seem and test perfectly. Lights, radio, everything, but it will not turn over.
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Old 08-06-2012, 03:19 AM
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Volts what ever, what is the amperage draw?
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:06 AM
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I'd like to say I know but I have a 20 $ multimeter and I'm pretty sure I'd blow the thing up trying to test I'm pretty sure the meter only goes up to 2A Max
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:39 PM
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And does anyone know where I can get a positive cable long enough for my c3 all the ones I've found are only 45 inches at the longest or am I gonna have to make one ?
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:50 PM
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use a welding cable,way better
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2012, 04:51 PM
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And does anyone know where I can get a positive cable long enough for my c3 all the ones I've found are only 45 inches at the longest or am I gonna have to make one ?
Where are you looking? Autozone has a ton of them
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