383, more questions
Well I dropped it all today, Santa didn't get me any of these. Does anyone see any problems here??
Cast Crank Rotating Assembly
Hyper/Flat Top Pistons
Bore Size 4.030''
383 Cubic Inch
2-Piece Rear Seal
Part Number # 942-1-92000BE
SB-Chevy Street Cylinder Head AFR
195cc Intake Ports
L98 Type Angle Plug
75cc Combustion Chambers
64cc Exhaust Ports
1.290'' OD Hydraulic Dual Valve Spring
135bs. Seat Pressure
.600'' Max Lift
Xtreme Energy XE268H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit
RPM Range: 1600-5800
Part Number # 249-CL12-242-2
SB-Chevy 262-400ci 1955-86
Part Number # 350-2601
Performer Series Carb
Part Number # 350-1405
Magnum Roller Rocker Arms
For Chevy 265-400
3/8" rocker stud
16 per package
High-energy pushrods incl.
Part Number # 249-RP1412-16
Chevrolet V8, 265-400, 1955-91 (Except with factory roller cam)
Part Number # 249-2100
I hope it works cause it's already on it's way. I was thinking of getting a new block as well, Jegs had them for $650 but I have to get it bored another .03 to fit those pistons. He told me it should work out to 9.5:1 or so, I thought I read this will be okay with aluminum heads.
I think I would have gone with a hydraulic roller cam. According to the AFR site, those heads have their peak airflow in the .500-.550" lift range. A hyd roller with lift somewhere around .525 or so would hit the spot. A dual pattern cam probably isn't needed with those heads either.
a 270hr magnum would work nice its a single pattern
.500/.500lift(I believe about .550 with 1.60 roller rockers)
If those springs are good for .600 lift and your not near that there maybe some issues with with valve float as your not even near that lift making your over the nose pressure way down, You rally need springs that will match your cam and valve lift.
Good luck with your build
Here is a link to a 383 we built with AFR's
Thanks for the input, I guess I was kinda late cause they already shipped it. I was tired of waiting and figured I gotta get something going. The roller cam would be nice but it was getting too high as it was, I was trying to stay under $3000, I guess my new budget is more like $4500 . Can I just change the springs out for smaller ones?? I also need a gasket kit I forgot to order, thinking a thicker one would bring down the CR a bit, any suggestions on this?
Is it better to get a block with 2-bolt mains and get them angle drilled for the new caps or just use a 4-bolt main block, I'd imagine that could handle this safely. Also is there anything I'm missing besides a distributer, valve covers, and stud kit???
From what we have seen its the stroke that is the problem with making the caps move.
Any of the 383's we build we either go to 4 bolt billet replacement caps or we will go to splayed on either a 4 or 2 bolt block with no problems.
We have seen and had calls on problems with stock grey cast caps moving or breaking in pefromance engines.
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