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Old 06-25-2013, 08:25 PM
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383 over heating

Just recently built a 383, but having over heating issues. New ALU radiator, pump, 14" electric fan 2500 cfm. I don't really think it is my cooling system but my timing can anyone help with ideas.
Engine
scat 383 stroke kit +13 CC pistons CR 10:1
Cam comp big mutha thumper(may have been a big mistake) with comp alu roller tip rockers
Heads 2.1 intake 1.6 exhaust 210 CC intake runners 62 CC comb chamber
Intake perfomer air gap edelbrock
Edelbrock 650 cfm carb change springs on metering rods because of cam
Fender well headers to 3 1/2" Magna flow mufflers
MSD street fire dist with MSD box
Trans 2 speed power glide with shift kit and manual valve body
Rear 10 bolt Chevy with 4:11 gears
Initial timming set at 22 and mech advance limited to 14 for total timing of 36 at 3000rpm.

The motor constantly builds heat and never cools especially at idle. Went with a high initial timing because of carb. To keep throtle plates closed and run on idle circuit. I have recently change to a Holley 670 removed limiters from mech advance and will start over with initial of 14 but haven't tried it yet just replaced cab the other day and fan new fuel lines. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by 65Xchevy II; 06-25-2013 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:37 PM
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What temp is it running at? Fan seems small what brand 2500 for a single 14" seems like false advertising to me. Is your thermostat working top hose stays cool? Or do you feel heat. What psi radiator cap?
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:51 PM
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Read through this tutorial that a bunch of us have contributed to.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...cooling_system
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:53 PM
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it gets up to 230 then I shut it down, but I know it would keep going. Pulled stat out but have had a 185 and a 160 in it. Cfm were by memory maybe wrong but there is plenty of air pulling across the radiator. It also overheats while driving down the road at 50mph. Cap should be 16 not 100% sure with out looking
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Xchevy II View Post
it gets up to 230 then I shut it down, but I know it would keep going. Pulled stat out but have had a 185 and a 160 in it. Cfm were by memory maybe wrong but there is plenty of air pulling across the radiator. It also overheats while driving down the road at 50mph. Cap should be 16 not 100% sure with out looking
What size radiator and cores/tube size. Is it a cross flow or down flow? Read tech.inspectors link lots of great info could read something you're overlooking
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Xchevy II View Post
It also overheats while driving down the road at 50mph.
Remove the water pump and examine for the impeller being tight on the driveshaft. Grab the front of the shaft with one hand and the impeller with the other hand and give the whole mess a Superman twist to see if the impeller is tight and not slipping. If the impeller is tight, then you have to open some space for the air to escape. At 50 mph, you would not require a fan at all, but the hot air has to go somewhere and it sounds to me like you have the engine bay all buttoned up with no place for the hot air to go. If nothing else, make some 1" spacers to raise the back of the hood so that some of the air can find its way out. Also, put a spring in the bottom hose. If the pump is working and sucking the hose shut, you will not get any water circulation.
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:42 PM
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pump is brand new, spring installed in lower hose top hose is coragated aluminum. The hood is a 4" cowl induction should have plenty of room for heat to escape. I have watched the water flowing back into the radiator plenty of flow. I'm still kinda stuck on that its in my timming
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:02 PM
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I seriously doubt any ANY 14" electric fan is going to keep a 383 cool in traffic.

However once you get up to 40-50 it should cool off. Could be air bubbles in your system? Back off the timing and see what she does. What size radiator is it?
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Xchevy II View Post
pump is brand new, spring installed in lower hose top hose is coragated aluminum. The hood is a 4" cowl induction should have plenty of room for heat to escape. I have watched the water flowing back into the radiator plenty of flow. I'm still kinda stuck on that its in my timming

I'm thinking about 30* initial, high flow 180* stat, high volume Stewart pump, and be certain your rad is large enough. I'm running a 388 with no heat issues at all.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:36 AM
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I agree with the fact that a 14" fan is really not large enough.
Something else about fans that is not advertised by the fan companies is the static pressure drop once the fan is attached to the radiator.
The fan may be advertised at 2500 CFM but once attached the static pressure drop can be drastic. Have seen tests where a 4000CFM fan once attached to rad only pulled 900 CFM.
The Spal fans seem to be the best fan for drop in pressure. Their HP fans are rated at 2750 CFM and drop to 2350 when attached to rad.
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:58 PM
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over heating

for kicks pull the stat and drill a 1/8" hole just outside the stat opening area, but not the gasket area. it'll allow air to escape when filling. i always do it.. small hole ain't no biggie..
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Old 07-07-2013, 12:27 AM
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Do you have a fan shroud? or just the fan? I have a 95 TA with a 383 turbo that never over heats. Electric fans with a shroud forces sir through the radiator and keeps it cool.
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:17 AM
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I dont use a fan on my water pump at all.
make sure your rad is both big enough and sealed at the sides so that air has to go through the rad,and cannot go around it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:25 PM
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Like tech said, at 50 mph, the fan is out of the picture.
Sure you got enough capacity in the radiator?
Is your timing all in at 50mph/3000rpm?
You need generous initial timing with that cam, or just lock it out.
Be sure you haven't installed a reverse rotation water pump, unless of course, that's what you need.
Again be sure your radiator is 'big' enough.
Timing enough.
Pump rotation!

Duke
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg T View Post
I'm thinking about 30* initial, high flow 180* stat, high volume Stewart pump, and be certain your rad is large enough. I'm running a 388 with no heat issues at all.
30 initial??? seems like WAY to much.

I don't think it's related, but I'm going to point it out anyway... 650cfm seems like way too little carb for an engine like that....

do you have the correct-rotation water pump? I've had numb-nuts at the parts store sell me reverse-rotation pumps before because they 'thought' they knew the right part numbers..

Where are you reading your engine temp from? a cylinder head or the intake manifold?
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