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The cam to rod clearance is something you need to check real close. My machist told me about it when I picked up my motor, ready to be assembled. I didnt have any problems but he said if there was a clearance issue to just what your friend is doing. He does lots of high performance work around my area and has a super reputation. I think it is more to do with the centering of the cam in the block. they are all not exactly centered, and some need the rod caps ground a little and some dont.
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Every block is different. I grind the inner rod bolt head on all 383 and 406 with 5.7 GM rods. Not much has to be removed. Easily done with a common bench grinder. Not all rods will hit. Usually one or two. Grinding all keeps the balance better.
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if you run into this at assembly (with the rotating assembly already balanced) and then grind on rod cap bolts or rod caps does this throw it outa balance ? or not enough to worry about ?
just curious cause you spend the money to balance. Mustangsaly |
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So if I use standard facotry rods with ARP bolts and a 383 crank with a standard base circle cam, can I make it fit with just a little grinding on the rod bolt caps?
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ARP now makes special rod bolts for this application. The part number is 134-6027. They have a larger chamfer on the head for camshaft clearance. It's too late to use this info on your engine, but hopefully it will help others who are getting ready to build a 383.
Barry |
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