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Go to this site www.bigblockdart.com
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I have never seen anyone put a SBC in a duster but it shouldn't be to hard.The SBD engine was patterned after the SBC and shares a lot of the same design basics.put a SBC and SBD side by side and you'll see what I mean.
The only problem I can see is making a set of headers. I assume you know you'll have to make motor and trany mounts and some minimum work on the wiring. As for headers I'd take a set of SBD headers that fit the car and change the head flange so it will fit a SBC.It'll take some tweeking to get the headers to mate to the chevy engine and still fit the chassis,but should be easier than making new from scratch. As for the rear end just use an A-body 8.75 dodge rear end .It will handle over 500 hp with no problem. And best of all,you get to annoy every mopar nut you meet gotta love that |
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You know, at heart I am a Mopar nut but economics made me realize that the SBC is more up my alley and I like to do things different if I can.
My biggest problem is that this is my first strip only (race) car. I already have a 383 ready to go that is in a 79 GMC shortbed. I believe it will make 450 HP and that is a pretty conservative estimate. Or at least I think it is conservative but have no hard evidence to back it up. Question #1 Motor and tranny mounts- It appears to me that a front mounting plate along with the tranny mount would be my best option. Does this sound logical? Do I also need a mid mounting plate? Question #2 Is my main consideration in mounting the motor/tranny simply that the crank centerline be the same, or close to the same, as the original 318? Question #3 Is it feasible to fabricate a top shock mount tower and just use a fiberglass front end? This should open up some header fabrication options and shave quite a bit of weight off the car. I don't intend to run an alternator so wiring should be limited to the ignition, starter, water pump, fan, fuel pump and guages, right? Thanks again for any help you more experienced rodders can give this newbie! |
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You can go with a motor plate if you want or make steel mounts or use 70's and newer style stock mounts on some sort of adapter to fit the frame.
crank centerline shouldn't matter to much but the relationship between trany output C/L and pinion angle should be Kept as close as possible to avoid driveshaft harmonics and premature U-joint failure. if you want to cut the inner fenders out then make absolutly sure the stock frame is in perfect condition or you'll have to fab up a whole new front frame to support the weight.then make a 1 3/4 tube to fit from the firewall over the top of the shock and curve down to the front of the frame just behind the rad support to support the upper end of the shock as for the alternator, thats your choice but lots of people in my area have gone back to using them just to save a lot of hassle in the pits of always having to charge the battery between rounds. hope this helps,good luck |
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