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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 05:35 AM
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.. According to the casting guy at that link, the tall tin/nickel markings under the timing cover were ~95% accurate up to 1972, when GM stopped caring what those markings stood for... and if their engines were slugs... The smaller 010 and 020 markings elsewhere on the block were just sand core identifiers...

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 05:46 AM
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Concerning the castings and the precious metal contents...very interesting I was not aware of that. Probably not something I'll be able to ask for in a short block.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 04:45 PM
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.. It dawned on me the proper engine for your Regal: a Buick 401" nailhead... plenty of power and no mistaking it for anything but a Buick engine... unlike the later Buick V8's which could easily be mistaken for an Olds, Pontiac, Chrysler... maybe even a Chevy... and, 401's came stock with an 'airgap' intake manifold...

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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 05:04 PM
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.. Nailheads even came stock with dual quad 'airgap' manifolds! And 425".

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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzLOL View Post
... and, 401's came stock with an 'airgap' intake manifold...
Beautiful, just beautiful.....
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 05:15 PM
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Oh wow a nailhead! Definitely no mistaking but I'm sure finding one wouldn't be easy. I like all GM V8s
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:05 PM
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https://www.google.com/#hl=en&tbo=d&...w=1264&bih=665
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 07:52 PM
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Ok so they're easy to find let me use another excuse...I'm not familiar with them and parts my be difficult to find.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:27 PM
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Would anybody feel like running a dyno sim or desktop dyno on this (these) combo?
383 9.5:1 with 64cc heads (ZZ383 short block)
1 5/8 long tube headers
RPM Air Gap, 750 CFM carb, no spacer
E-Tec 170cc 60975 heads (64cc comb chamber)
With the following cams:

Howard's: (retro-fit cams but I'd ask for '86 up)
113215-08 217/225 .495 .500 108 LSA
110885-10 225/225 .525 .525 110 LSA

Lunati Voodoo (also retro-fit)
20120710 211/219 .507 .515 112 LSA
20120711 219/227 .515 .530 112 LSA
I'd like these on a 110 LSA but I don't know if you can just plug that in?

I'd like to use only 1.5 ratio rockers
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 08:40 PM
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back to the small engine?
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 09:30 PM
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Well..yes. I know a 383 will give me what I'm looking for, probably even a 350. Was originally looking for max torque from a 383 but you know of course the more cubes the better. If I only had one project car I'd invest more into a single build but I have to spread the spending. Not that a 400 can't be done for the same $ as a 383, I just don't know anything about steam holes and cam buttons.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 09:42 PM
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let us all know what you finally decide.If you build a 400,get a good block,dont mess with steam holes.Like the 400/427 I told you about with new parts.I used a dart block for my engine for a few reasons,power/reliability/strength,all with room for a few rebuilds
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 10:29 PM
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.. Most important part for a 401... LOL!:

Offenhauser 360 Degree Dual Quad High-Rise Intake Manifolds 5692 - SummitRacing.com

.. All other 401 parts readily available...
____________________________________________

.. SBC 400 cheaper to build than a 383... don't even need to change the crank... 400 is a 383 with .095" overbore already done.. 406 is 383 with .125" overbore...
_____________________________________________

.. Buick 401/425 and SBC 400 include big torque at no extra cost...

.. SBC 400 steam holes no big deal, lay gasket on new heads (if used) and drill 1/8" hole where gasket indicates... only need to drill the 3 lower holes in each head, any steam or air bubbles where the upper holes would be just floats up and out the water jacket hole above it... as long as you don't drive the vehicle upside down... cam buttons for roller cams are the same (simple) problem for any size Gen. 1 SBC that didn't come stock with roller cam/provisions (pre-1986)...
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:01 PM
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For a simple drop in I'd like to get the motivation to start up the Olds 455 I have on the stand. I have the money but not the time and patience. But at the same time I'd like to assemble some parts myself.

Buzzlol: I know the use of a cam button fit a roller retro fit is required on all pre 86 Gen I blocks. Is that a set it and forget it type deal? Or will the end play change over time?
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 11:31 PM
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.. Cam buttons usually a permanent oil-lubed setup... your choice of nylon, aluminum, or ball-bearing button...

.. Your 4 383 combos look like 375 - 425 HP and 430 - 450 lb.-ft. depending on cam size...
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