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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 07:37 PM
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Update

Spent part of the day taking the front of the engine off to check the timing marks and what did I find the crank was set retarded 2 deg instead of 0 and the cam was off also. So I have now reset the cam and crank to read 0 on the crank pin and both dots lined up at 6 and 12 for #6 cylinder in the firing order rotated after all was lined up to TDC #1 mark was spot on.

Put it together rotated the timing some to get it close to #1 and fired it up would not stay running the carb was so out of adj. Tweaked it a little and got it to run set timing currently at 15 deg BTDC idles well and runs better. Now I know there are some issues one I need to put a pres reg on the gas as it is a 9psi pump and should only run 5-6 for this carb.

The one thing I did notice when I took it out was at an idle when I would give it gas it popped out the carb once not sure why could not repeat.

I figure more adjustments on the fine tuning and we should be there soon.

Will keep updates coming also thank you all for your help.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:55 AM
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You can get a *pop* through the carb when you hit the throttle if the engine isn't fully warmed up, likely that's all it was.

If the crank was retarded 2 degrees, the cam would be advanced by 2 degrees. Or do you mean the crank gear was set to give a 2 degree cam retard?

Did you degree the cam, or are you going by the keyways on the crank gear, or what? Most timing sets are either straight up or +/- 4 degrees, I'm wondering how you measured the error to be 2 degrees.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:07 AM
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383 stoker need help

The cam you have works best with a 10" 3500 stall converter. Needs gears too.

When you get the distributor set up right it will run much better.
Then get to work on the carb.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
You can get a *pop* through the carb when you hit the throttle if the engine isn't fully warmed up, likely that's all it was.

If the crank was retarded 2 degrees, the cam would be advanced by 2 degrees. Or do you mean the crank gear was set to give a 2 degree cam retard?

Did you degree the cam, or are you going by the keyways on the crank gear, or what? Most timing sets are either straight up or +/- 4 degrees, I'm wondering how you measured the error to be 2 degrees.
Keyways on the crank here is a pic of the original setup that I did wrong when I swaped out the gear drive. The problem I have is with a tilt front end I can not get in front of the engine so I did not take into account for the angle of site originally this time I did and marked all 3 locations with a dab of white out so I have everything now dialed in on 0
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
383 stoker need help

The cam you have works best with a 10" 3500 stall converter. Needs gears too.

When you get the distributor set up right it will run much better.
Then get to work on the carb.
Current stall is if I recall 2500 - 3000 don't remember what one I got the gears are set at 3.5 with 26" tall tires
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post

Use the 4" power step up springs in the carb. The 600cfm carb will need rejetting.
Should have bought the 750 carb.
Not familiar with the Edelbrock carbs that much can you explain your suggestion.
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:13 PM
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Correction on Manifold

The manifold is not the Edelbrock performer it is the
Edelbrock Performer RPM 1500 - 6500 rpm
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:59 PM
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OP I am unclear as to what your actual problem is? "it should fire faster" what exactly is the issue?

for my two cents make sure the ignitor pickup coil gap is correct on that insert/retro fit on the old points dist.

and as mentioned already on the AF mix, the 1406 carb will be too lean for that engine if the carb has the out of the box rods and jets, this along with 50 deg of advance is death.

rejet the carb and get the timing right, good luck.

you can goggle the 1406 carb, go to the edelbrock web site and download the manual, very easy to work on the rejet and it wont cost you an arm nor leg

Last edited by Custom10; 03-19-2013 at 04:02 PM. Reason: carb manual
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matheny00 View Post
The manifold is not the Edelbrock performer it is the
Edelbrock Performer RPM 1500 - 6500 rpm
Good manifold for your engine IMO.

The step up spring (shown below) allows the carb to richen the air/fuel mixture when the engine is under a load. They are easy to change- located under a small steel cap on either side of the carb (circled in bottom photo). Info on this is here, scroll down to POWER MODE on page 13.

A page w/other links to rebuild info, etc. is here.

Edelbrock step up springs:



Last edited by cobalt327; 03-20-2013 at 12:40 AM.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Good manifold for your engine IMO.

The step up spring (shown below) allows the carb to richen the air/fuel mixture when the engine is under a load. They are easy to change- located under a small steel cap on either side of the carb (circled in bottom photo). Info on this is here, scroll down to POWER MODE on page 13.

A page w/other links to rebuild info, etc. is here.

Edelbrock step up springs:


Cobalt thanks for the info the problem is I am not sure what I need to do at this point I have never dialed in a carb before so any advice on where to start would be great.
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:53 PM
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While waiting on some info

Ok so things are looking very good got it dialed in to about 18 deg at idle what I do notice is the timing mark seems to float some. It seems every so often it advances about an inch or so them settles back in on the mark. I read one time what can cause this but have forgotten., any ideas?
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:01 PM
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383 stroker need help

To adjust your carburetor start out by removing it and flip it upside down. Look at the primary butterfly in the closed position. There is a transfer slot in the front. Use the idle set screws to close the butterfly until you have about .020 gap of the transfer slot above the butterfly. You can also adjust the secondary tranfer slot now too. After reinstalling the carburetor to the intake and starting, you probably will have to add more initial timing to keep it idling at 850-900 rpms. This is how to find out how much initial timing a camshaft needs. It might need 20-24 degees. Then you will have to adjust the distributor to add 12* mechanical timing. You also will need an adjustable vacuum advance can. Crane has a good kit p/n 99600-1. Be sure to read this wiki article it has all the information that you are going to need to set up your distributor, and to adjust your timing! http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...EI_distributor
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matheny00 View Post
Ok so things are looking very good got it dialed in to about 18 deg at idle what I do notice is the timing mark seems to float some. It seems every so often it advances about an inch or so them settles back in on the mark. I read one time what can cause this but have forgotten., any ideas?
If the plug wires are able to cross fire, the light can cause the timing to look like it has jumped. Be sure there are no plug wires close the the wire the light is connected to to prevent this.

If the cap is cracked or internally dirty, there can be spark scatter causing the same thing. Is there a noticeable change in the engine when the timing jumps. like a miss or hesitation? I doubt the outer ring of the damper is loose, but this can be checked, info here.

If the engine is right at the rpm where the mechanical advance starts to advance the timing, the line can jump. If you speed up the idle a little, does the timing jump up and stay there? If so, the mechanical advance springs might be a bit too light. Add one that's just a little stiffer to one side and leave the original spring on the other.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by matheny00 View Post
Cobalt thanks for the info the problem is I am not sure what I need to do at this point I have never dialed in a carb before so any advice on where to start would be great.
Check the links here for rebuild and tuning info.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
If the plug wires are able to cross fire, the light can cause the timing to look like it has jumped. Be sure there are no plug wires close the the wire the light is connected to to prevent this.

If the cap is cracked or internally dirty, there can be spark scatter causing the same thing. Is there a noticeable change in the engine when the timing jumps. like a miss or hesitation? I doubt the outer ring of the damper is loose, but this can be checked, info here.

If the engine is right at the rpm where the mechanical advance starts to advance the timing, the line can jump. If you speed up the idle a little, does the timing jump up and stay there? If so, the mechanical advance springs might be a bit too light. Add one that's just a little stiffer to one side and leave the original spring on the other.
I do know that I am checking the timing with the inductor on #1 up at the cap so it is close to other wires plus 1 and 3 cross over each otehr to line up correct so I will have to wait till Friday and check it again, I also read that the inductor can cause this and to put a strip of card board in the clamp where it closes any thought?
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