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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2013, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matheny00 View Post
I do know that I am checking the timing with the inductor on #1 up at the cap so it is close to other wires plus 1 and 3 cross over each otehr to line up correct so I will have to wait till Friday and check it again, I also read that the inductor can cause this and to put a strip of card board in the clamp where it closes any thought?
Never heard of using cardboard, so can't really say. But unless there's a miss or noticeable change in the idle that corresponds w/the timing jump, I'd tend to think it's not actually happening at the plug(s).

Keep us posted.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Never heard of using cardboard, so can't really say. But unless there's a miss or noticeable change in the idle that corresponds w/the timing jump, I'd tend to think it's not actually happening at the plug(s).

Keep us posted.
Ok here is what I did shifted the timing light inductor to the plug end of the wire and that seemed to stop the bounce sits solid at 18 deg BTDC.
Truck fires up nice couple pumps on the pedal and it starts. On Friday I will work on the carb and install the regulator also so by the time I am finished next week that should all be good.

Thank you all for your ideas and advise truly appreciate it.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 05:55 PM
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OK new issues will they ever stop?

First started to do the cam break in 2000-2500 rpm for 20 min. ran smooth temp held below 200 oil pressure at 65psi.

All sounds great right I started to see an oil drip become a regular sight right under the block off plate for the fuel pump I watched it drip down off the lower radiator hose. I figured I will locate the leak latter not a major issue lost about 1/2 cup oil.
So it gets worse at about the 15 minute mark noticed oil pressure starting to drop so lowered the rpm in 500 rpm in stages and continued to watch the oil pressure drop to 10 psi so I shut down the engine.
I also noticed oil at the right rear of the engine so I figured again let it cool and find it latter this was a slow leak.

So the first oil leak I think I have solved I am missing one of the bolts on the front of the engine the second one up I think that is open to the fuel pump area so will put a bolt in it in the AM.

The second oil leak it is coming from the top of the engine and down the side to the top of the starter. I am going to check valve cover gaskets but I think for some reason I did not install a dist gasket so Friday my HEI is showing up and I will verify it then.

The last issue is the dropping oil pressure I have no clue. What I have planned is Friday doing an oil change I do have one of those magnets on the oil filter so I plan on cutting it open and looking at it and doing an oil change. I also have read that a fram filter can also cause this so I will go to a KN or other brand Suggestions and also what weight oil should I run in so. Cal
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 09:53 PM
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Timing a Chevy

Basic timing 101. First of all, all GM set up's with vac adv.are not using ported Vac. they all use manifold Vac. Reason is that Vac adv. is only being used at part throttle and at idle, in certain load conditions timing can be as high as 46 to 48 deg.. At full throttle vac. adv . retards and mech. takes over. So what need's to happen is, 1) set base timing@ 8 to 10 deg. no vac. 2) Hook up Vac ck @ idle timing should be around 20- 26 deg remember do not use ported vac. this will cause timing to advance @ more carb signal. 3) disconnect vac re check timing @3000 to 3500 RPM's this will show total timing which need's to be @38 degree's for your set up. If at this time timing is not at 38 deg. set at 38 deg. recheck base timing and re-curve dist to achieve a base of no more than 12 deg. and a total of 38 deg. This range also works great for non vac adv. dist.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyRat View Post
Basic timing 101. First of all, all GM set up's with vac adv.are not using ported Vac. they all use manifold Vac. Reason is that Vac adv. is only being used at part throttle and at idle, in certain load conditions timing can be as high as 46 to 48 deg.. At full throttle vac. adv . retards and mech. takes over. So what need's to happen is, 1) set base timing@ 8 to 10 deg. no vac. 2) Hook up Vac ck @ idle timing should be around 20- 26 deg remember do not use ported vac. this will cause timing to advance @ more carb signal. 3) disconnect vac re check timing @3000 to 3500 RPM's this will show total timing which need's to be @38 degree's for your set up. If at this time timing is not at 38 deg. set at 38 deg. recheck base timing and re-curve dist to achieve a base of no more than 12 deg. and a total of 38 deg. This range also works great for non vac adv. dist.
Thanks will do that after friday when the new dizzy gets here
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 10:12 PM
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Note that vac.adv. should at all times be hooked to manifold Vac.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 10:17 PM
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On final assembly vac adv should at all times be hooked to manifold vac. except for mopars not sure for blue ovals.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 08:37 AM
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Still need help on post #33

Still need help on the oil pressure issue please see link #33
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 10:04 AM
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Low oil pressure usually points to excessive bearing clearance.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 02:31 PM
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Update on last post

Ok on the oil leak put in bolt front of engine it was the one that goes into the fuel pump rod area and was leaking put 1" 3/8" bolt with sealer done.

Rear corner leak took off valve cover and inside the cover notices a couple spots but the corner was the worst the spots the sand down for the castings was still raised about a good 1/16 to 3/32 inch half circle so sanded them all down should be fixed. will pull Driver side just to check.

Dizzy had a gasket on it FYI

Oil pressure.... fired up the truck and back up to 65 psi at idle and when warm still holding strong figured I will change oil and put a wix filter and 20 - 50 castrol oil in this weekend and recheck everything. Re run the cam break in cycle to see if all is holding to gether well.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 03:56 PM
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oil press.

For the right oil you can run the brad penn SAE straight 30 or any of the trick oil's with the high zinc content for a fresh engine. Also valvoline VR1 racing oil it is less costly and works great. I run that in all my engines year around in mich. As for the oil press. doesn't sound good. Pull Valve covers check rockers for proper preload, should be @ .020 to .040 any loose ones means cam failure. and Possibly a plugged oil line to the Gauge or plug sensor if electric gauge. If this is the case you may get lucky and only have to tear down partial. worse case complete tear down. I just did one (327), for a customer cam wipe during break in, I did not Break it in, and it went so far as to seize the wrist pins made the engine hard to turn over. Pull the plugs with a torque wrench set @ 35# rotate engine from crank bolt should turn at that setting without a click from the wrench. Should be @ 20 to 30# after you break it free and have it rotating that's with standard ring tensions. any more than 40# tear it down and start over. personally I run nothing but rollers any more do to break in trouble. You must run additives at break-in and the oil in the future is very costly. No More Sliders that takes the FUN out of our Passion. let me know if it turns out to just be a bad gauge. Come to think of it I have also seen some guy's do the 20 minute break in all at one time it may have just over heated the oil. I break in my engines on the stand in 5 minute intervals with a complete cool down between intervals. This also heat cycles the gaskets and it's a good time to re -torque things. Have been lucky for the last 30 years only lost 2 cams out of hundreds. Hope this helps.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 04:14 PM
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Oil press Range SBC

A SBC with straight 30 oil fully warmed should be 30 psi @ Idle and a max of 60 to 65 with a high pressure pump standard pump will be around 55 PSI. If it has a Hi Volume pump better have higher oil cap. pan. 20-50 will put unwanted load on the dist. Gear and cam gear this oil is for high HP engines with racing clearances. Straight 30 is the best. with a standard clearance build.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyRat View Post
A SBC with straight 30 oil fully warmed should be 30 psi @ Idle and a max of 60 to 65 with a high pressure pump standard pump will be around 55 PSI. If it has a Hi Volume pump better have higher oil cap. pan. 20-50 will put unwanted load on the dist. Gear and cam gear this oil is for high HP engines with racing clearances. Straight 30 is the best. with a standard clearance build.
It is a high pressure pump with a 7 qt pan
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2013, 09:01 PM
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Up date got the HEI Dizzy installed and partway dialed in will work on it more over the weekend. It is amazing the truck fires right up no turning over a few times no pumping the gas pedal a few times it is like a new car fires right up. I am like a kid in a candy store this is to me the best purchase anyone could make.


Oil Pressure still up will change oil this weekend and cut the filter open to have a peek and change to simple 30 weight oil.

Thanks again to all of you..
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2013, 11:45 PM
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That hole in the front of the block near the fuel pump is there so you can screw a bolt in to touch and grab the fuel pump push rod to hold it up while for ease of installation of the pump. After, it should be plugged with a 'short' bolt to prevent oil leaking. Be sure you bolt is not too long and fouling on the rod. If your measuring from the shoulder of the bolt 1" is WAY to long! I'm surprised t didn't bottom out on the pump rod. The hole is only 3/4" deep!


Duke
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