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Old 07-30-2007, 07:41 PM
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383 stroker ?

I just bought my block yesterday which has 2 bolt mains. It's a 1989 350 chevy. I stripped the whole thing. Im going to build a 383 stroker with it and im bringing it to the machine shop tomorrow. What should I tell them to do? From my understanding, I need to have the block hot tanked, deck squared, cylinders bored .030" over, get new cam bearings installed, and what else? How much do you think all that will cost? Also, do you think this is an okay choice for someone that wants to keep this cheap? Or is it junk?

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Old 07-30-2007, 08:05 PM
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383 Stroker

If they're a good machine shop they'll know what to do. Just tell them what you want and get a dialog going with the man in charge. What they don't need or want is someone that doesn't know much telling them what to do. I mean that with all due respect. If you can't trust them to build it right don't let them touch it, find another machine shop.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:23 PM
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that kit looks good but ask if they have an internal balanced kit. its better better to have it balanced inside where all the rotating parts are not at the flex plate and dampner.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:42 PM
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is that kit really good for 400-450 hp?
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Old 07-30-2007, 09:02 PM
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most aftermarket i beam rods are good for 450-500 with cast cranks. anything above that i would get H beams and a forged steel crank
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Old 07-31-2007, 12:55 AM
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First off...."Ernkazern" said it in spades!!!! I couldn't agree with him any more. Just tell the boss what you are building and they will do the rest...IF they are a GOOD machine shop. All the high dollar parts in the world won't be worth a sh-- if the machine work in bogus.

That kit looks very good, I always use Speed Pro pistons and rings, just watch your compression ratio. IMPORTANT.... IF its truly a balanced assembly then you should get a balance shop info card showing the bobweight and piston/rod weight etc, ask them for it! If they hem haw around then "it ain't balanced". And if it isn't balanced then have it balanced before you assemble the short block. Very important to have any stroker balanced, If your machine shop doesn't do it they will know who does. I would also use ARP main studs and head bolts, very cheap insurance.
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:21 AM
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On the 383's that have come from other shops where they have used 2 bolt caps there has always been a problem of the caps walking in the registers and its not the HP that does it its extra stroke.

We have one in the shop right now where the engine builder told him a 2 bolt would be fine and after a couple of months running the oil pressure has been droping and they took it apart to find thatt the caps were walking and the bearing down to copper.

Here is a link to look over http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652566

Hpefully they have taken care of the problem thay have been have with the Sir rods not holding there size on the big engine.

On any of the blocks we machine for a 383 and we use a good 4 bolt cap block if its got 2482 on the center caps if not we install a set of billet 4 bolt repalcement caps, we sonic test the cylinders which is a must clean and mag, line bore if new caps are installed and line hone, deck, bore and plate hone, stroker clearance the bottom of the cylinders and install a set of performance cam bearings and a set of freeze plugs for 595.00 if no caps are installed.

Here is a link to a 383 we bilt for a customer and using a good set of well prepared Vortec heads we have seen the same results on the dyno and with theis much torque and HP I know that a bolt would not live in this build.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...highlight=DYNO


Good luck with your build
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:45 AM
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So if I just build a powereful (400-450 HP) 350 with a 3.48" stroke crank, I'll be fine with a 2 bolt main?
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awoodman
So if I just build a powereful (400-450 HP) 350 with a 3.48" stroke crank, I'll be fine with a 2 bolt main?
At our shop all we build is performance engines and to tell you the truth from what we have seen over the last 37 years of building engines we anything over 350 horse it going to be a 4 bolt main.

There again we build a lot of circle track engines and we have a 2 barrel class the makes about 370 horse and 430 on the torque and from we have seen over the years that 2 bolt blocks won't cut it. Again we have had new customers bring there engines in and have not been impressed what we have seen.

Look in the GM catolog and see what GM rates there stock 4 bolt block at and 2 don't think the 2 bolt blocks are better.

We are a pretty high end engine shop and we don't like to take risks if w are building the engines and from the earlier link you tell we use all forged rotators and good and parts and do good machine work which ends up to be a good running peice on the dyno.

I have seen to many people do there engine twice because of not using the proper parts or doing the proper machine work the first time.

Here is a good link to look over when you have a lot of time as there is some good info there to read.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38173
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Old 07-31-2007, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awoodman
I just bought my block yesterday which has 2 bolt mains. It's a 1989 350 chevy. I stripped the whole thing. Im going to build a 383 stroker with it and im bringing it to the machine shop tomorrow. What should I tell them to do? From my understanding, I need to have the block hot tanked, deck squared, cylinders bored .030" over, get new cam bearings installed, and what else? How much do you think all that will cost? Also, do you think this is an okay choice for someone that wants to keep this cheap? Or is it junk?
I would really think about using this 2 bolt for a stroker! it is not the best choice unless you just want to say you have a stroker look a little more and find a four bolt Otherwise you are putting a lot of money into a block that cant take the use. find a good 1010 block
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