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Old 11-01-2005, 06:33 PM
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Building a Stroker Motor

Hey everyone,

I've recently started tearing down a 2000 Chevy Vortec 350 and want to build it into a solid stroker motor that pushes somewhere in the neighborhood of 400hp. This will be the first engine I've built, I didn't want to screw it up by picking up the wrong parts. I'm looking for solid take-off with sustained power from idle to 7000 rpm and a good mild lope when I'm stuck in traffic. It's going into an 84 TransAm with a built 700R4 (Thanks to a nice kit from B&M) and a 373 posi rear end.

The block itself looks ok so far, the pistons and piston walls are very clean. The guy I picked it up from said it was running but that it has been over heated. I can't find any evidence of damage but don't really know where to look for it.

I've got my eye on a new 400 crank and if I'm not mistaken, I will need to bore the block .30 over to make it a true 383. That means I will need larger pistons but what else would or should go into it? Can I even consider using the original parts (Rockers, rods etc).

The car it's going into is carborated which means one of those carborated intakes for a vortec from Jegs or Summit...not a problem but which carborator? Stick with the stock Rochestor and just rebuild it or go with something like a 700-750cfm from holley or edelbrock? My TransAm has a 4-barrel stock on it but I have no idea what size it is and I would like to keep this as "stock" looking as I can.

The last thing I've got is which cam should I get? The motor is built for a rollor cam but I don't know the first thing about them. I understand lift, duration etc, but what the numbers mean to the engine is greek to me. I'm looking for something with a mild lope at idle, awsome off the line power but will pull through 6000rpm (actual Red line of around 5500?)

I hope I don't sound too much like a noob! This is afterall the first time I've attempted to build a motor. I do have some mechanical savvy friends who are a great help, but neither one knows anything about motors. Any suggestions and helpful guidance would be greatly appreciated!

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Last edited by Ozz1967; 11-01-2005 at 07:28 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 11-01-2005, 07:37 PM
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CRASH TEST DUMMY !!!!!!
 
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better have the block..magnafluxed....checked for cracks the only way to check it......spend no dime untill done......
then we talk....

welcome to the board....your pal mark....aka the ragenrat638
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Old 11-01-2005, 08:18 PM
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I Agree With Ragenrat About The Magnafluxing. CHEVY Blocks Don't Give Up Without A Hell Of A Fight-Some Of The Ones I've Seen Run Hot And Hammered At The Same Time Cracked Straight Across The Oil Hole In #3 Main. The Block Was Actually Usable But Not For HiPerformance. Remember That Block Is One Piece Rear Main Seal-Won't Take Two Piece Seal Type Crank, If Thats What You Have. If The Blocks Ok And You Get It Balanced And Built The Worst Part Is Deciding Which Cam And Heads To Use. Theres A Bunch Of Good Parts Available. Power Is In The Heads With The Cam 2nd Most Critical Decision. The Finished Result Must Be Coordinated Whatever Parts You Choose. Intake? The Performer RPM (Air Gap If Warm Climate, Non-Air Gap If Mostly Cold Weather Operation. Carb? I Like A Well Built Q-Jet, Edelbrock Second. This Motor Will Need A Free Flowing Exhaust. Minimum 4 Inch Single From Headers Back To Flowmaster. HEI For Spark. Talk To Comp Cams Tech Line About Cam Choice Once You Decide Exactly What You Want It To Do. Then You Can Make A Better Head Decision. If It Runs As It Should, The Tranny Is Strong, And It Hooks Up-HOLD ON! MD
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Old 11-01-2005, 08:42 PM
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You've stated three different RPM levels you want your engine to rev to. An engine that revs to 7000 rpm is going to require a much greater investment than an engine that revs to 5500. An engine that makes power reliably to 7000 rpm should be built to sustain about 7500 rpm and a rev limiter set at around 7200 or so, just in case something happens. (think broken driveshaft at 6000+ rpm under hard throttle) A stock or slightly upgraded HEI will work fine for 5500 rpm but a good ignition should be used if you want to maximize power past 6000. Stock HEIs fall off very quickly past about 5000 rpm. Also, A cam that makes solid power to 5500-6000 rpm will not be capable of making power close to 7000 rpm. Vortec heads will work if your goal is 5500-6000 rpm but you may want to go with a set of aftermarket heads from Dart, Edelbrock, AFR, etc that can flow enough air to make power at 7000 rpm.

Determine what your primary usage of the car is going to be then pick your intended rpm range and parts accordingly. A 400 hp engine that makes its power in the 2000-6000 rpm range (or slightly higher) would be an absolute blast to drive.
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Old 11-01-2005, 10:30 PM
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Here is a list of 109 small block Chevy street motor buildups with many 383's and different heads......
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
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Old 11-02-2005, 07:52 AM
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I agree that 7000 RPM is not a resonable goal with the vortec heads. 5500-6000 is more like it. As far as the intake goes, I would recommend the performer RPM/airgap. I would use new rockers, maybe get set of rollers. For the cam, I would recommend the xr282hr (230 236 @.050 .510 .520 lift). this is about all the cam that the vortec heads can handle because they tend to drop off in flow after around .500 lift. I would recommend a barry grant 650 carb. That may seem a little small to you, but with only taking the motor to around 6000 RPM at the absolute max, I think that is all that you need. This motor should make its max power around 5500 RPM, and have a ton of torque. I would guess you would be in the 430hp 475 tq range. Make sure you get the heads machined for the larger z28 springs to handle the lift you will have. The stock springs are only good to around .450 lift.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=12593

Adam
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Old 11-02-2005, 08:17 AM
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Go to chevyhiperformance.com and check out the old tech articles. A lot of ideas in there.

Building a stroker for your first engine is kind of tricky. Try to find a complete stoker kit to simplify the procedure. Or maybe a simple 350 with a good set of 195cc ARF heads would be a better choice for a first engine build project. Power is all in the heads plus you really don't need the extra torque of a 383 with a 3.73 gear anyways. You could make more hp with a 350 and AFR heads than a 383 with vortec heads. And do it cheaper.
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Old 11-02-2005, 09:15 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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you need the torque. if you want to have fun on the street you definitely need the torque. The next thing you need to decide is exactly what type of engine do you want- power up high, or power down low. I would recomend peak power at about 5500 rpm or lower. You won't be spinning 7 g's on the street. The Vortec's will be fine, but I would rework them. And its ok to do it yourself as long as you're VERY careful and research every aspect of porting polishing and blending. There's no reason not to do that on a set of cast heads. I would set your compression around 9.5:1- maybe higher but then you're looking at premium gas. If you want a lope go with a smaller LSA on a slightly oversized cam. You're gonna need a dual pattern, but what your goals are depicts the exact grind. On a 383 you can get away with a single plane intake with out idle problems. Go for a Holley carb- they're the 2nd easiest to tune and have more tunability than an edelbrock.

A few other tips to keep in mind: use cast or good hyper. pistons unless you KNOW you're going over 550hp- they're lighter and make more power; Use Total Seal Gapless rings (pricey, but the rings are what keep your power out of your oil- if you know what I mean- don't get cheap); polish your piston tops if its not already done. Headers are a must, long tubes are the best for the street; the only way to make more power is to raise the effiency- not to simpley add more fuel.
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Old 11-02-2005, 01:22 PM
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since you are using a block from 2000, run a roller cam.

you won't have the hole for the fuel pump pushrod, so you will have to go with an electric pump.

Get a set of Vortec heads modified for high lift, or better yet, pick up a set of aftermarkets. AFR, Dart, Trickflow, etc

I'm running a 355 roller block, with a ZZ4 roller cam and a set of modified Vortec heads. Makes some pretty good street power. If you have a 383, you can use a bigger cam. Check out the GM 'Hot Cam' roller which has even more lift. Your block should already have the roller lifters, spider retainer, and dogbones - which you can actually re-use with a roller cam.

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Cam_...hotcamkit.html
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Old 11-02-2005, 08:11 PM
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I've always wanted to build a motor and since this motor (that was in a vehicle 2 weeks prior to my purchase) all but fell into my lap for $200.00 I couldn't help but jump at it. It is a complete motor that knocked a little when it was cold after they overheated it and decided it was cheaper to put a different motor in than rebuild this one (Their story)...so I"m hoping the block is solid.

I do want to build a streetable 383 that will redline at 6000rpm (My current red line on the tach) and has good power all the way through from idle to 5500-6000. The car has stock 373 gears which is why I'm going with them...and with the overdrive on the transmission I run 70Mph at 2600rpm...not bad if you ask me. I also for some reason want to keep the car "looking" as stock as I can which means I keep all the accessories I am able to including the carborator...but do I rebuild my rochester (don't know the CFM on it) or go with aftermarket? Second, how much of the original motor can I keep?

I will clean the heads...they are vortec heads and from what I have read, they are better than the old style like my 67 camaro has (2.02 intake). Other than that, yes, I will us a roller cam (thanks for the input firestone, I'll look into those), 400 crank, 400 rods (or the 5.7inch?) and of course, I'll need new pistons, rings, bearings etc. Keep the ideas coming, I love reading about this stuff especially now since i"m actually building one! Got to run for now, will check back later!
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Old 11-03-2005, 05:31 AM
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if you want to keep the Vortecs already on the engine, pull 'em and have them worked on my a local machine shop. Screw-in-Studs, larger diameter springs, pushrod guideplates. Retainers will have to be replaced or machined to handle a larger lift. Stick with a good roller cam, like the GM Hotcam and you will have plenty of power with a 383. GM sells a Hotcam kit that also includes the springs if I remember correctly.
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Old 11-04-2005, 06:08 AM
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One of the reasons I bought the motor was for the heads. They alone are worth more than what I paid for the motor so I figured I really couldn't lose on the deal if the block was bad.
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