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Old 01-29-2009, 11:11 AM
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383 stroker built...now need cam suggestions

Street/strip car but mostly street. Need a cam that idles nicely without "excessive" lopy, choppy, rough sound...a little is ok. Looking for power at lower to mid range rpm's, say 2000 to about 5500-6000. I'll be doing some bracket races and the last engine (350) took me to 103 mph in 13.9 secs at the 1/4 mile. I don't want to go faster than 11.50 without a cage. My friend, techron in this forum, is helping me put this together and we're mulling over all the wonderful choices of roller cams in the world. I've narrowed it down to keeping the LSA to within 110-114, and the lift to about .500-.510. So all the durations at .050" is what's killing me softly.
I don't want to have to get flow numbers on the heads to get it so precise...ballpark is fine. (I do have flow numbers though at .100" intervals).
Here's what I have:

My '65 Corvette Sport Coupe 383 build

Components of my 1965 Corvette Sport Coupe 383 stroker build.

* Original standard air cleaner with standard filter
* LT 1 aluminum 7 finned valve covers with PCV system
* Holley model 4150 4 bbl 750cfm DP carburetor (list # 4779-9)
* Holley 12-801-1 Red electric fuel pump 7psi / 97gph with emergency shut off and anti theft
* Edelbrock CB3X dual plane aluminum intake manifold with oil fill tube (plugged PCV port)
* Original harmonic balancer
* Original timing chain cover
* Original water pump (short style)
* 5 bladed offset fan with clutch
* Original Harrison aluminum radiator
* Hooker side exhaust headers with sidepipes, JCL spiral turbo baffles and sidepipe heat guard
* Original Muncie M-21 4 speed close ratio manual transmission
* Original 4.11 posi-traction rear end
* BFG 245/15/8 fronts and BFG 275/15/10 in rear
* Power front and rear disc brakes, no AC, no PS, using original alternator

All the above came with the car and will be re-installed as serviceable. New heads and short block follow.

J & C Enterprises assembled ProComp (Australia) Pro Series aluminum high performance heads
* latest designed performance flow Pro Series
* pressure cast aircraft grade 356A aluminum heat treated to T-6 specs
* straight spark plugs
* .200" thicker deck
* 190cc intake runners
* 64cc dual quench combustion chambers
* 2.02 stainless steel one piece swirl polished Intake valves
* 1.60 stainless steel one piece swirl polished Exhaust valves
* all 16 bronze guides
* +.100 7.3" push rods
* 1.260 dia. .600 lift valve springs with hardened valve keepers
* machined to accept large 1.43 dia. springs
* screw in studs and guide plates
* new viton positive fit valve seals
* accepts centerbolt and outside valve cover bolt patterns
* .750" gasketed #23 Autolite straight spark plugs
* ??? head gasket

M&R Engines assembled GM all forged Street Thunder 3.750" Stroker 350 (383 Stroker)
* seasoned GM 4 bolt main, internal balance, 1 piece rear seal, passenger side dipstick
* thermal cleaned, shot peened, magnafluxed, bored/honed w/ torque plates, deck planes squared w/ BHJ fixture
* new forged steel nitride hardened 3.75" stroke crankshaft
* new 6.000" 4340 H-beam connecting rods w/ ARP bolts and silicon bronze bushings
* KB Premium forged CNC aluminum 12cc dish pistons (10.1 to 1 compression ratio)
* Akerly and Childs extreme moly piston rings
* Clevite P- series bearings and Durabond cam bearings
* ARP bolts and main bolts
* OEM factory weighted flywheel 87-up (external balance rear)
* Skip White Performance 7 qt. race oil pan with pass. side dipstick
* new oil pickup and pump
* double roller timing chain set
* ??? hydraulic roller cam

Thanks in advance for any and all opinions and suggestions. What camshaft would YOU use in the above configuration? Sorry for the long post.


"I have a Redline and I want to Paint it Black"! Roller Stones
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