383 stroker built...now need cam suggestions
Street/strip car but mostly street. Need a cam that idles nicely without "excessive" lopy, choppy, rough sound...a little is ok. Looking for power at lower to mid range rpm's, say 2000 to about 5500-6000. I'll be doing some bracket races and the last engine (350) took me to 103 mph in 13.9 secs at the 1/4 mile. I don't want to go faster than 11.50 without a cage. My friend, techron in this forum, is helping me put this together and we're mulling over all the wonderful choices of roller cams in the world. I've narrowed it down to keeping the LSA to within 110-114, and the lift to about .500-.510. So all the durations at .050" is what's killing me softly.
I don't want to have to get flow numbers on the heads to get it so precise...ballpark is fine. (I do have flow numbers though at .100" intervals).
Here's what I have:
My '65 Corvette Sport Coupe 383 build
Components of my 1965 Corvette Sport Coupe 383 stroker build.
* Original standard air cleaner with standard filter
* LT 1 aluminum 7 finned valve covers with PCV system
* Holley model 4150 4 bbl 750cfm DP carburetor (list # 4779-9)
* Holley 12-801-1 Red electric fuel pump 7psi / 97gph with emergency shut off and anti theft
* Edelbrock CB3X dual plane aluminum intake manifold with oil fill tube (plugged PCV port)
* Original harmonic balancer
* Original timing chain cover
* Original water pump (short style)
* 5 bladed offset fan with clutch
* Original Harrison aluminum radiator
* Hooker side exhaust headers with sidepipes, JCL spiral turbo baffles and sidepipe heat guard
* Original Muncie M-21 4 speed close ratio manual transmission
* Original 4.11 posi-traction rear end
* BFG 245/15/8 fronts and BFG 275/15/10 in rear
* Power front and rear disc brakes, no AC, no PS, using original alternator
All the above came with the car and will be re-installed as serviceable. New heads and short block follow.
J & C Enterprises assembled ProComp (Australia) Pro Series aluminum high performance heads
* latest designed performance flow Pro Series
* pressure cast aircraft grade 356A aluminum heat treated to T-6 specs
* straight spark plugs
* .200" thicker deck
* 190cc intake runners
* 64cc dual quench combustion chambers
* 2.02 stainless steel one piece swirl polished Intake valves
* 1.60 stainless steel one piece swirl polished Exhaust valves
* all 16 bronze guides
* +.100 7.3" push rods
* 1.260 dia. .600 lift valve springs with hardened valve keepers
* machined to accept large 1.43 dia. springs
* screw in studs and guide plates
* new viton positive fit valve seals
* accepts centerbolt and outside valve cover bolt patterns
* .750" gasketed #23 Autolite straight spark plugs
* ??? head gasket
M&R Engines assembled GM all forged Street Thunder 3.750" Stroker 350 (383 Stroker)
* seasoned GM 4 bolt main, internal balance, 1 piece rear seal, passenger side dipstick
* thermal cleaned, shot peened, magnafluxed, bored/honed w/ torque plates, deck planes squared w/ BHJ fixture
* new forged steel nitride hardened 3.75" stroke crankshaft
* new 6.000" 4340 H-beam connecting rods w/ ARP bolts and silicon bronze bushings
* KB Premium forged CNC aluminum 12cc dish pistons (10.1 to 1 compression ratio)
* Akerly and Childs extreme moly piston rings
* Clevite P- series bearings and Durabond cam bearings
* ARP bolts and main bolts
* OEM factory weighted flywheel 87-up (external balance rear)
* Skip White Performance 7 qt. race oil pan with pass. side dipstick
* new oil pickup and pump
* double roller timing chain set
* ??? hydraulic roller cam
Thanks in advance for any and all opinions and suggestions. What camshaft would YOU use in the above configuration? Sorry for the long post.
"I have a Redline and I want to Paint it Black"! Roller Stones
If the Edelbrock performer rpm hyd roller performs anything like the regular hydraulic,I would recommend it.I would try to find a Z-28 high rise 67-69 instead of the Edelbrock.I think it would look and perform better.
hi guys, give dokk a welcome, i recommended him to this websight.
our 2 cars are strikingly similar, both are coupes, 4 speed, 4.11 rear, flared fender cars with hooker headers and sidepipes. about the only difference is his is a 65 whereas mine is a 64, ( :D and his is in one peice less engine, and mine is in about 10,00 pieces- i'm doing a body off resto- :D )
i told him to give as much info on the build as he can, and not just ask one of those "i have a chevy engine, what's the best cam? questions that always pop up" he is too intelligent to do that anyway.
this is his first engine build, he is useing good quality parts but trying to maintain a budget and not break the bank. he is now at the cam choice part of his build and i think he is a little overwhelmed by the number of cam choices out there.
hive him a hand--> OH, and HI ASTRODOKK :welcome:
F-Bird'88, thanks for the link to that Crane cam card. The lift is at about what we're looking for and the duration is right on too. Since we're using end caps rather than nuts and bolts, there shouldn't be a clearace issue...but definitely will check.
Been looking at Isky and Comp cams too. I had a Crane Fireball 286 in my old 350 and it was nice!
I had actually printed a cam spec sheet with these exact durations (from your link) at .050" but the lift was just a little more (518/239 vs your 509/528). So all the other info about spring loading and duration at .004" is different and that's where I get lost in deciphering that data. That's why I ask you pros! :thumbup:
I used a Comp XR282HR in my 383 with 6" capscrew rods (I-beams) and I still had to clearance a few of them. (I did all of them, although only 3 gave me trouble) Don't take it for granted, check it.
Thanks Greg, I definitley will check all of them. Comp Cam XR282HR is a retrofit for the Gen 1 ver. 1 of the old 350 blocks. I have the Gen 1 ver. 2 ('88-up) with the factory roller cam and lifters, so I need the thrust plate type cam.
Thats what I have, the late model factory roller setup, that part is just the generic grind number, I think they even use it across all engine brands for the extreme energy hydraulic roller seires with 230/236 duration. 8-432-8 is the part number for the roller block version. I have it in my boat, idles strong at 950 or so with a 750DP carb, with a 650DP I can't get it to idle below 1000 for some reason, has about 10 inches of vacuum, but the signal is pretty strong and it doesn't drift around much. In a car I think I'd want about 22-2500 stall converter if I was running an auto trans.
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