383 stroker deiseling when I try to shut er down - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 05-13-2006, 04:10 PM
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383 stroker deiseling when I try to shut er down

I just recently bought a holley truck avenger (670) for an old jeep I've had sitting up for about 3 years. I converted the motor to a 383 stroker abot 5 years back.

I got the holley installed (was running an edlebrock that did'nt work well off-road), and ran into an interesting problem. The engine ran smooth right off the bat, but idled high. When I checked the timing, I couldn't find the mark, so I began to retard the timing until the mark cam into view. At this point the timing was retarded enough that the engine was stumbling, and the timing was still advanced to about 10 degrees. I tried shutting it down, but it would deisel and backfire. It continued to do this no matter where I adjusted the timing (advanced or retarded). It just wouldnt shut down. The only way I could get it shut down was the cut the power to the coil.

The curb idle screw on the carb is turned as far out as possible. The idle is smooth, but is off the scale (15 degrees btdc or so). Is it possible that the vacuum advance is stuck? the truck has been sitting for a couple years?

The specs on the motor are as follows: Chevy 383 stroker, edlebrock performer cam, bored to .40, holley truck avenger 670 carb (straight out of the box), if anyone needs anymore info, please let me know.

Thanks for any help in advance,

Travis

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Old 05-13-2006, 04:21 PM
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my vaccum advance was stuck on my 350 one time and kept thinking that the distributor was moving because i would set the timing were it wouldn't diesel but it run like crap then i would advance it were it ran good than it would diesel ended up bein g the advance
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Old 05-13-2006, 05:00 PM
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sounds to me like the timing marks are off due to a slipped balancer or incorrectly placed timing mark, if it won`t run correctly when it says it`s 10 degree`s advanced pretty much tells the story.
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Old 05-13-2006, 08:11 PM
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I don't know if this is any help or not... I'm struggling with a sbc I just put into my CJ5, too. Anyway, we fired it up last weekend, and the timing was way off the marks. My neighbor adjusted it pretty much by ear (it runs great) and said that some sbcs had timing marks straight above the crank (as opposed to at about 1:30 position from the crank). He didn't know the model years, but I was able to find an aftermarket front cover from a local engine builder which has the marks in that location. Maybe you've just got the wrong year front cover?
I make no claims to be any great mechanic, this just rang a bell with me. Maybe it'll make more sense to someone else here. Good luck.
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Old 05-14-2006, 04:00 PM
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You didn't mention what year the truck was but my 83 has the computer controlled HEI in it and when I installed the 350 and eliminated the knock sensor and everything else not needed the computer would try to correct the timing and throw the timing back and forth like 12* or so. Just a thought.
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6426yy
You didn't mention what year the truck was but my 83 has the computer controlled HEI in it and when I installed the 350 and eliminated the knock sensor and everything else not needed the computer would try to correct the timing and throw the timing back and forth like 12* or so. Just a thought.
if it has an hei sometimes the mechanical advance gets frozen,ck and see if you can turn the rotor and ir snaps back.
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Old 09-27-2007, 12:31 AM
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I assume you had the vacuum advance disconnected when you set the timing......


Quote:
Originally Posted by SDLuck
if it has an hei sometimes the mechanical advance gets frozen,ck and see if you can turn the rotor and ir snaps back.
I had a mechanical advance freeze up but my truck still idled and cruised fine. I had plenty of power until about 3200rpm then it would fall on it's face.

Is this a new or used carb? If used, do a quick rebuild, holley's are easy. (Never mind, I guess strait out of the box means new).

You shouldn't need the curb idle screw all of the way out. Check to make sure the secondaries are closing all of the way and you have no vacuum leaks. One way to check the secondaries is to cover the secondaries with a heavy clean cloth (or your hand). If the idle drops, they letting air by. Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner.
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