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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2014, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
AUTOMATIC TRANY
PAINT BLACK???
like oldbogie mentioned,,,
is there a bearing in the crankshaft to support the imput shaft of the "TRANY"?
Nope no bearing. I do not like needle bearings. There is however a new pilot bushing that I pressed in.

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Old 03-20-2014, 08:13 PM
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OK so what I had done was to set the total timing to 34 deg with the mechanical all in by 2500 RPM in preporation for installing and tuning the larger carb.

What I should have done was set the initial timing to 18-20 deg like you guys said and then limited the total mechanical to 34 deg like mentioned in this thread. I pulled the plugs last night and noticed some oil fouling on number 1 and 3 with 1 being worse. So I figured this couls be coming from 1 of 3 places. Rings, valve seals or a vacuum leak into the underside of the intake. I had already retorqued the heads, intake and header bolts after the first couple of heat cycles so I was a little worried. So I went over them again. The head bolt and header bolt torques were good but the intake was NOT. I hope that eliminates the oil fouling and I think it will given that it was on only 2 ajoining cyliders. I retimed it as stated above and readjusted the carb. The pronounced vibration at 1900-2100 RPM is almost completely gone. Now at least I think I have a good starting point to work on the carb tuning and the advance curve.

The gears will be changed in due time but working on this project in my "spare" time only allows one thing at a time.

I am no engine builder but I have been working on cars my whole life so I do understand the basics. I really do appreciate all of the great input that I have received here.
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Old 03-21-2014, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by dsraven View Post
I'm with the school of thought that says a balanced engine would need to have all the parts at the same place when it is being balanced and the parts wuld come to you as a set. the crankshaft would need the flywheel and vibration damper to be properly balanced. if you didn't get those parts from them then it isn't properly balanced, that would explain the vibration and why it will eventually "let go" on you one day. go for the warranty or return option. it would make you wonder what else they scrimped on. when you looked up inside did you notice if the rods looked like they were balanced? they would have nice clean grind marks on the ends of the bearing caps. did the pistons look like they had any machining marks on the under side like they were weight matched? not trying to rain on your parade, just asking.
Yes there were numbers written on the bottoms of the pistons. The crank was drilled but I saw no grind marks on the rods. I have pictures and will try to post some here. As much of a hassle it was just getting the motor I can only imagine how a warrenty claim would go. Their return policy if I understand it correctly is only preinstallation and only for 30 days. Do I think I still have a balance issue....yes. Am I happy with them ...no. I am going to put the 750 carb on it and try to get the tune right. Hopefully they build a better engine than their customer service and their actions up to this point would suggest.
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:52 PM
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:53 PM
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:55 PM
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:01 PM
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Well I took it out on the highway yesterday after work. It is running much better but the vibration while less pronounced is still there. I guess I will most likely pull the engine over the summer once it gets too hot to drive it.

In the pictures that I posted you can see where they drilled the scat crank. You can see the numbers written on the rods. You can not see the numbers written on the bottom of the pistons.
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:02 PM
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the crank looks a little rough around the rear there?
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
the crank looks a little rough around the rear there?
Yeah I thought so too.
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Old 03-22-2014, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
the crank looks a little rough around the rear there?
Looks too rough to be true SCAT crank to me, none of the SCAT's cast cranks I've used or installed looked that rough and "unrefined" all over. Looks like some of the generic copy's of a SCAT that I've seen though - Eagle, KMJ(Ebay), CAT, etc.

Any SCAT i.d. on the front face of the front counterweight??

Although it might just be the photo magnifying what isn't really there??
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
Looks too rough to be true SCAT crank to me, none of the SCAT's cast cranks I've used or installed looked that rough and "unrefined" all over. Looks like some of the generic copy's of a SCAT that I've seen though - Eagle, KMJ(Ebay), CAT, etc.

Any SCAT i.d. on the front face of the front counterweight??

Although it might just be the photo magnifying what isn't really there??

Uhg more good news.

I'm off work the rest of the week so tomorrow I am pulling the oil pan and timing cover and putting a chain in.

I'll take a look when I have it apart.
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:02 PM
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maybe a CAT crank. Anyone remember one of those charming beauties?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2014, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AutoGear View Post
maybe a CAT crank. Anyone remember one of those charming beauties?
Yep, Cal Auto Transpeed . They weren't around long, only part I ever heard of that was any good was the H-beam rods they sold. Everything else I saw or heard about was junk. A friend bought their solid roller lifters like the Lunati/Crane lightweight spring loaded pop-up type...the roller wheels just disintegrated in about 550 miles/1 month. Most expensive $100 he ever "saved"

He bought the cast 383 crank too for another project, it looked RUFF made all over but journals measured out ok, not very impressed by it though just to save $20. Good thing it was just going into a 350 hp street rod application. Had a lot of drilled holes in the counter weights when it came back from balancing, and they had to put MORE weight into the external balancer. Looked like they had their work cut out for them balancing it.

His genuine Lunati lifter replacements lasted several years.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:40 AM
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One other thing that I noticed on this car. Whoever installed the HEI distributor originally just plugged it to the original pink 18 ga primary wire and that wire was getting hot. So that wire now feeds a relay coil and power to the distributor is feed through the relay contacts and is 14 ga. From what I have read this wire being too small to supply the proper current effectivly causes the dwell to be set at the maximum of around 40 if it were an old breaker point setup.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by TGoodwin View Post
One other thing that I noticed on this car. Whoever installed the HEI distributor originally just plugged it to the original pink 18 ga primary wire and that wire was getting hot. So that wire now feeds a relay coil and power to the distributor is feed through the relay contacts and is 14 ga. From what I have read this wire being too small to supply the proper current effectivly causes the dwell to be set at the maximum of around 40 if it were an old breaker point setup.
This fact could be some of your vibration issue also. The stock points ignition power feed wire has a built in resister, to limit it to 8 volts or so, so that it doesn't burn up the breaker points' contacts.

HEI's do not like being run on low voltage.

Nice job
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