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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2011, 08:29 AM
eloc431962's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROJ0
Hey sorry Cole, I meant that jokingly. U were totally right, sorry for being such a butthole dude.
We are all good, I just want to see your ride fixed.




Cole

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2011, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
We are all good, I just want to see your ride fixed.




Cole
Thnx dude, Ill swap out that nasty oil this week and let you know how it goes. Feel pretty dumb I didn't know to do it allready, but I usually learn by doing it the wrong was first.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2011, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROJ0
Thnx dude, Ill swap out that nasty oil this week and let you know how it goes. Feel pretty dumb I didn't know to do it allready, but I usually learn by doing it the wrong was first.
Actually, there are differing schools of thought on this, and I'm a bit surprised nothing was mentioned by the main proponent of this: Some say to keep the oil- and the additives contained within- and just change the filter after initial cam break in. The idea here, is the filter catches the particulates and the remaining oil can be safely used out to 500 miles or so.

I personally am not a proponent of this, preferring instead to dump the oil and filter after initial cam break in, then refill w/oil (and nowadays another dose of break in lube like ZDDPlus). This stays in the engine until 500 miles, then the oil and filter is changed again and from this point on, regular oil changes follow. But that's because that is how I was taught and it's worked well for me so many times.

Just the same, I thought I'd throw it out there for your consideration/research.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2011, 11:09 AM
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It's a gimmie! Drain the oil, pour in 7 qt's and filter, then check and mark your dipstick. No need to pull the pan. I wouldn't expect an engine broke in till about 300 mi with speeds 40-60 mph at operating temp. your engine defiantly needs more than 0* timing initial. I was shocked that it runs even half way decent at that setting.
You might want to check into a vacuum can resivor. With the big cam your not going to get the vacuum you need to operate the power brakes more than a couple pumps especialy with an auto trans and even with a manual.

Last edited by sqzbox; 03-19-2011 at 11:21 AM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2011, 12:35 PM
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You will need 24deg at idle and 34-36deg at max advnace.
Recurve the distributor. Big cams need a lot more idle timing than stock.

You want a short 12deg timing curve.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2011, 09:51 PM
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Hey guys, I finally got the oil changed. Put in a wick filter and Gibbs BR-30w in. I'm trying to work on the timing but can't get the thing to turn over now, I'll spend some more time on it tomorrow but kinda stumped as to what changed aside from the oil. Anyways I'll post tomorrow if I can get it going again.
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