[ROJ0]

Hey guys I just finished a fresh 383 Stroker build and I'm still sorting out some bugs. My major concern right now is that there seems to be exesive smoke (Oil burning) from both of my valve cover breathers as long as some oil.

I do have the PCV valve installed corectly and I don't think the rings are bad, it was broken in properly.

I did install a high volume oil pump and was told to break in with straight 50 weight oil and ZDDP Additive. My concern is I have high oil pressure (About 70 - 75 psi) Could the thick oil + high volume be drowning out my rings with too much oil causing excessive blow by? And could I resolve this by switching to 40 or 30 weight oil?

Thanks in advance.

[Custom10]

How many miles on "fresh" engine?, is it using allot of oil ie adding 1/2 quart per 150 miles?, if plug fowling are all the plugs bad or just 1 or 2?,

The HV pump will not effect the rings and there ability to seat and subsequently seal. What type of rings were used.

I have always break in with 10W-30 non synthetic, 50 is too heavy IMO

[ROJ0]

It was broken in and it has only been driven twice around town since maybee 4-5 miles. I haven't felt comftorable driving it yet because I don't have enough vacuum for my power brakes ( Big Cam) but that's another issue.

I used cast rings, and I don't think there is any issue with them seating.

I have not checked the plugs yet but I will tomorrow and see what they look like. It really sounds and feels like it's running properly and isn't lacking in power for sure.

I also though 50 weight was too heavy but it's what my race shop told me to break in with. I'm thinking Ill switch to 10w-30 and see how it runs then.

I just have alot of money is this motor and don't wan't to drive it untill everything is squared away.

[bigdog7373]

I would use 10w-30 and some zinc additive. Make sure you're not overfilling it too as this would cause a problem similar to yours.

[ROJ0]

Thnx bigdog, Ill pick some 10w-30 next week and I will definetly be using some additive with it.

I can't check my oil though, the jerk who had this block before me siliconed the hole for the dipstick shut. I'll probally pull the pan when I change the oil and dig that crap out. Really wish I noticed it before I droped the block in, o well.

[bigdog7373]

Yup, i would calculate your pan's oil capacity before you do anything else. If its hitting the crank it causes a bunch of problems.

[ROJ0]

It's a seven quart pan and came clearanced for a 383 so no prob there but thanks for the advice anyways.

[painted jester]

some times it takes a few more miles for rings to break in fully, a couple of short trips might not be enough!

[ROJ0]

Ok. Well maybee I'll take it out again this weekend and drive it a little, It's just my first engine build and I rather be safe than sorry. Should I not be concerned about the 70-75 psi oil pressure, my guage maxes out at 60, I don't wanna step on it and blow off my filter?

[adantessr]

Originally Posted by bigdog7373

Yup, i would calculate your pan's oil capacity before you do anything else. If its hitting the crank it causes a bunch of problems.

If you're going to be dropping the pan anyway, block it up level and use a quart measure to check it out using water before re-installing. Then put that amount of oil in, after installing, and calibrate your dipstick . Short story on this is when I bought my T-bucket, I changed the engine oil, which had been on the full mark, and there was only 2 or 2-1/2 quarts in the pan. Somebody had put in an aftermarket chrome dipstick and tube .

[ROJ0]

Good info adantessr, I will have to do that.

[eloc431962]

Originally Posted by ROJ0

Ok. Well maybee I'll take it out again this weekend and drive it a little, It's just my first engine build and I rather be safe than sorry. Should I not be concerned about the 70-75 psi oil pressure, my guage maxes out at 60, I don't wanna step on it and blow off my filter?

How do you know it's 70-75 psi if your gauge only goes to 60 psi ? And i assume it still has the break in oil still in it as well.
Is this "WARM" oil pressure or "COLD" ?

Cole

[eloc431962]

Originally Posted by adantessr

Somebody had put in an aftermarket chrome dipstick and tube .

Allan i have seen this so0o0o0o many times. I know sometimes you have to get a different dipstick but dang, well you know what i mean.


Cole

[ROJ0]

How do you know it's 70-75 psi if your gauge only goes to 60 psi ? And i assume it still has the break in oil still in it as well.
Is this "WARM" oil pressure or "COLD" ?

Cole



This is warm oil pressure and even though the gauge maxes at 60 the pointer still moves past it another 10-15 psi and yes this is a tested and working guage. And yes it's the break in oil because you don't need to change it for 500 miles, but with the high pressure I'm considering changing it now.

[adantessr]

Originally Posted by eloc431962

Allan i have seen this so0o0o0o many times. I know sometimes you have to get a different dipstick but dang, well you know what i mean.


Cole

I think the key word here is 'calibrate'...