383 Stroker Exessive Smoke out of Valve Cover Breather - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 04:12 PM
ROJ0's Avatar
It's ok, I got tools!
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 25
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
383 Stroker Exessive Smoke out of Valve Cover Breather

Hey guys I just finished a fresh 383 Stroker build and I'm still sorting out some bugs. My major concern right now is that there seems to be exesive smoke (Oil burning) from both of my valve cover breathers as long as some oil.

I do have the PCV valve installed corectly and I don't think the rings are bad, it was broken in properly.

I did install a high volume oil pump and was told to break in with straight 50 weight oil and ZDDP Additive. My concern is I have high oil pressure (About 70 - 75 psi) Could the thick oil + high volume be drowning out my rings with too much oil causing excessive blow by? And could I resolve this by switching to 40 or 30 weight oil?

Thanks in advance.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 04:41 PM
Custom10's Avatar
my KARMA ran over my DOGMA
 

Last journal entry: SS
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Age: 49
Posts: 1,098
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 17
Thanked 29 Times in 25 Posts
How many miles on "fresh" engine?, is it using allot of oil ie adding 1/2 quart per 150 miles?, if plug fowling are all the plugs bad or just 1 or 2?,

The HV pump will not effect the rings and there ability to seat and subsequently seal. What type of rings were used.

I have always break in with 10W-30 non synthetic, 50 is too heavy IMO
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:01 PM
ROJ0's Avatar
It's ok, I got tools!
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 25
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It was broken in and it has only been driven twice around town since maybee 4-5 miles. I haven't felt comftorable driving it yet because I don't have enough vacuum for my power brakes ( Big Cam) but that's another issue.

I used cast rings, and I don't think there is any issue with them seating.

I have not checked the plugs yet but I will tomorrow and see what they look like. It really sounds and feels like it's running properly and isn't lacking in power for sure.

I also though 50 weight was too heavy but it's what my race shop told me to break in with. I'm thinking Ill switch to 10w-30 and see how it runs then.

I just have alot of money is this motor and don't wan't to drive it untill everything is squared away.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:23 PM
bigdog7373's Avatar
Of course it's fast
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 2,673
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 49 Times in 49 Posts
I would use 10w-30 and some zinc additive. Make sure you're not overfilling it too as this would cause a problem similar to yours.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:30 PM
ROJ0's Avatar
It's ok, I got tools!
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 25
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thnx bigdog, Ill pick some 10w-30 next week and I will definetly be using some additive with it.

I can't check my oil though, the jerk who had this block before me siliconed the hole for the dipstick shut. I'll probally pull the pan when I change the oil and dig that crap out. Really wish I noticed it before I droped the block in, o well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:32 PM
bigdog7373's Avatar
Of course it's fast
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 2,673
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 49 Times in 49 Posts
Yup, i would calculate your pan's oil capacity before you do anything else. If its hitting the crank it causes a bunch of problems.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:39 PM
ROJ0's Avatar
It's ok, I got tools!
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 25
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It's a seven quart pan and came clearanced for a 383 so no prob there but thanks for the advice anyways.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:58 PM
painted jester's Avatar
TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

Last journal entry: mopar hump back
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Michigan
Age: 68
Posts: 1,841
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 103
Thanked 292 Times in 240 Posts
some times it takes a few more miles for rings to break in fully, a couple of short trips might not be enough!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:06 PM
ROJ0's Avatar
It's ok, I got tools!
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 25
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ok. Well maybee I'll take it out again this weekend and drive it a little, It's just my first engine build and I rather be safe than sorry. Should I not be concerned about the 70-75 psi oil pressure, my guage maxes out at 60, I don't wanna step on it and blow off my filter?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:11 PM
adantessr's Avatar
'23 T-Bucket Pickup
 
Last wiki edit: Troubleshooting ignition Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Charleston , WV
Age: 62
Posts: 1,549
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 43
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373
Yup, i would calculate your pan's oil capacity before you do anything else. If its hitting the crank it causes a bunch of problems.
If you're going to be dropping the pan anyway, block it up level and use a quart measure to check it out using water before re-installing. Then put that amount of oil in, after installing, and calibrate your dipstick . Short story on this is when I bought my T-bucket, I changed the engine oil, which had been on the full mark, and there was only 2 or 2-1/2 quarts in the pan. Somebody had put in an aftermarket chrome dipstick and tube .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:14 PM
ROJ0's Avatar
It's ok, I got tools!
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 25
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Good info adantessr, I will have to do that.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:15 PM
eloc431962's Avatar
Evil Wicked Mean And Nasty
 
Last wiki edit: Pilot bearing and bushings
Last journal entry: roof repair
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: back in the garage.
Posts: 13,762
Wiki Edits: 37

Thanks: 50
Thanked 28 Times in 24 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROJ0
Ok. Well maybee I'll take it out again this weekend and drive it a little, It's just my first engine build and I rather be safe than sorry. Should I not be concerned about the 70-75 psi oil pressure, my guage maxes out at 60, I don't wanna step on it and blow off my filter?
How do you know it's 70-75 psi if your gauge only goes to 60 psi ? And i assume it still has the break in oil still in it as well.
Is this "WARM" oil pressure or "COLD" ?

Cole
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:19 PM
eloc431962's Avatar
Evil Wicked Mean And Nasty
 
Last wiki edit: Pilot bearing and bushings
Last journal entry: roof repair
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: back in the garage.
Posts: 13,762
Wiki Edits: 37

Thanks: 50
Thanked 28 Times in 24 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Somebody had put in an aftermarket chrome dipstick and tube .
Allan i have seen this so0o0o0o many times. I know sometimes you have to get a different dipstick but dang, well you know what i mean.


Cole
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:21 PM
ROJ0's Avatar
It's ok, I got tools!
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Des Moines, IA
Age: 25
Posts: 17
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How do you know it's 70-75 psi if your gauge only goes to 60 psi ? And i assume it still has the break in oil still in it as well.
Is this "WARM" oil pressure or "COLD" ?

Cole



This is warm oil pressure and even though the gauge maxes at 60 the pointer still moves past it another 10-15 psi and yes this is a tested and working guage. And yes it's the break in oil because you don't need to change it for 500 miles, but with the high pressure I'm considering changing it now.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:25 PM
adantessr's Avatar
'23 T-Bucket Pickup
 
Last wiki edit: Troubleshooting ignition Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Charleston , WV
Age: 62
Posts: 1,549
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 43
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
Allan i have seen this so0o0o0o many times. I know sometimes you have to get a different dipstick but dang, well you know what i mean.


Cole
I think the key word here is 'calibrate'...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Valve Cover breather ??? tubbedz General Rodding Tech 6 04-10-2009 06:50 AM
Ford, oil from valve cover to breather prob DaSouthWon Engine 7 03-18-2008 10:57 AM
My Mavirick has white goo in my valve cover breather Mr. Wormy Engine 5 02-09-2006 04:29 PM
Valve cover baffle and breather question Jag Daddy Engine 4 03-19-2004 03:29 PM
Oil pumping out of valve cover breather? Bad Ass Chevy Engine 11 05-25-2003 10:39 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.