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Old 06-22-2010, 11:08 PM
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383 Stroker observation & Q's

I am still working on putting together my 383 project and now I am doing some of the fitting and some grinding. I have been reading where you have to grind some off the top of your connecting rod bolt but most dont know exactly how much and exactly where, its more like a trial and error with allot of putting things together......checking.......pulling apart and grinding, putting back together.....checking......and it keeps going. I did stumble across a couple of photo's of a connecting rod that was claimed as being one of the best examples and here they are



Thats great and all and gives a good visual for a reference point but I would like to do this without all the pulling, grinding, cleaning, re-installing and so on. Why couldnt you just use the exact measurement of the distance between the cam and connecting rod in relation with one another and take off that exact amount and BLAM!!! you have perfect clearance without all the hassle.
This is what I came up with but thought I would see what you all think,
The stock crank which is in perfect relation with the cam from factory has the 3.48" stroke but I have installed a longer stroke crank which is 3.75", the difference or addition of an extra .27", but its rotating length is only an extra of .135" which is half of the .27". Now the new crank is making the stock connecting rod go the .135" too far which is making it come in contact with the cam......... couldnt I just grind off that extra .135" off the connecting rod to make it fit back to its stock location? I dont see why not but this is where I am stumped.........what angle to grind that section of the connecting rod and bolt? What is the exact center point of the cam/rod bolt contact and there angle in relation to one another? It seems to me that figuring this out would be allot simpler than just assembly, dis-assembly and cleaning all the time......lots of room there to damage things.
I also would like to get some Ideas on a good set of heads and a good carb.
I have been looking and leaning towards the Quickfuel ss750, I would like to make about 475ish hp but not sure if Ill loose anything using a carb with a choke tower. The heads I think I might use AFR's but still not sure
Thanks
GM
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:02 AM
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Trying to do as you say and take .135" off the rods in the area indicated in the photo will result in weakening the rod because it is too much material removed, you are only taking roughly .060-.080" off the rod, only slightly touching the rod bolt head on its angled edge.. Although the stroke difference comes out the way you are thinking, the 3.48" stroke cleared the cam by a different amount, it didn't just clear the stock cam by a tiny bit it cleared by more than that. What you are basically trying to achieve with the 5.7" rod and grinding is a smaller amount so that you don't take any more off the rod then you absolutely need to.

You have to realize that the rod is swinging toward a moving cam lobe, the cam lobe is swinging under and the rod is swinging over, they are moving toward each other. The added stroke increases the duration of time the rod is in the vicinity of the cam lobe - so you can't just use the simple math of removing the difference in stroke radius.

I'll give you a short cut however. Note in the picture you posted the flat area of the clearance grinding - if you measure from the flat into the bore of the rod with a pair of calipers, at the shortest point between the rod bore(no bearing installed) and the clearance flat, and roughly where the rod bolt head meets the rod...you want to grind to achieve a .625" dimension.

A tip I picked up to measure the clearance between lobe and rod while rotating the assembly is to use a long plastic zip-tie that is roughly .050" thick, if there is too little clearance it will get pinched tight but not hurt the cam. Works real well and much easier than tryng to get a hand and feeler gauge down in there.

This will clear close to 90+% of the cams out there and cut your checking time considerably.
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
I'll give you a short cut however. Note in the picture you posted the flat area of the clearance grinding - if you measure from the flat into the bore of the rod with a pair of calipers, at the shortest point between the rod bore(no bearing installed) and the clearance flat, and roughly where the rod bolt head meets the rod...you want to grind to achieve a .625" dimension
YES, you actually just proved my point, I took and miked 2 different places on the rod/bolt area that will need to be ground off. The first place was just below the head of the bolt on the rod itself to the inside (- the bearing). The second was the flat angled section of the rod bolt to the inside of the rod (- the bearing) just like you described for your measurement. The first reading was a little high at .785", but the second measurement was .7595". So if you take my second measurement of the .7595" and subtract the .135" that I said that you should need to grind away.......you get .6245 which is just .0005" off of what you said that exact same distance should measure.

GM
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:00 AM
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Are you using factory or aftermarket rods?? Factory rods only need about .060-.080"" removed to make the .625 dimension, but aftermarket rods are typically thicker just below the rod bolt heads.

Now that I look at the picture again, I can see how it would be close to the .135" figure. I just never looked at it from that standpoint however, I just went with the .625" rod dimension.

I haven't ground any in a while, normally I use stroker clearanced rods that are already machined to clear in this area, or use a reduced base circle camshaft.

Last edited by ericnova72; 06-23-2010 at 02:05 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:40 AM
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For right now I am using the stock rods but that all depends on how frustrated I get, just in case this happens do you have any rods that you would suggest. I bet I can get it to work but I will be using a roller cam and I have read that there a little more difficult to clearance. I dont know from real world experience, just what I have read (carcraft).
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenmoonshine
For right now I am using the stock rods but that all depends on how frustrated I get, just in case this happens do you have any rods that you would suggest. I bet I can get it to work but I will be using a roller cam and I have read that there a little more difficult to clearance. I dont know from real world experience, just what I have read (carcraft).
I really like the Scat stock appearing rods with the capscrew instead of a bolt and nut, that way there is no bolt head in the way. I believe they come already cam clearanced from Scat now also.
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Old 06-23-2010, 06:41 PM
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didnt your machine shop do it for you when they balanced it mine did all i had to do is assemble it
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