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Old 05-12-2012, 01:40 PM
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383 stroker overheating

well fellas, seems like it is one thing after another with my car. I am having serious overheating problems. It all started a couple months ago. I changed to a chrome h20 neck and replaced an existing cobbled h20 temp analog sensor with a new cluster set sunpro from advance. Ever since, the car would heat normally and then all of a sudden run way up to 230 and then rapidly drop back down to 180 in like a second. Well, i assumed my gauge was bad but didn't really ride the car anymore or buy a new gauge. Now its nice weather out and I want to ride my car. So, I got to thinking maybe the gauge is accurate and the t-stat may have went bad. So i replaced the t-stat going from a 185 to a new 195 t-stat. Still doing the same crap running up and what sucks is i have no other choice but to turn engine off hot. So i researched and found that I may have air pockets in the radiator. So i took the t-stat out all together and the car ran 165 at all times. I drove it 10 miles and back and it never went over 165 on temp sensor. So i know my h20 pump is flowing. Today, i drained everything, replaced t-stat again to be safe and filled everything back up. I started the car, brought it up to temp. The first time at 195 it dropped temp back like normal. The second time at 195 it kept climbing and as soon as i turned the car off the temp went from 210 to 240 on the gauge in like 2 seconds. I have a be kool radiator with dual electric fans. I am at a stand still, i don't want to keep starting my car and overheating it but I don't know what to do. I don't think there are air pockets in the radiator system now. The oil levels are normal as well if that makes a difference. I am running 20w-50 if that makes a difference. Also, it will sit and hover around 180-190 for a long time and then all of a sudden it starts to climb and then whammo it's overheated. I don't have any idea of what I need to do!

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Old 05-12-2012, 02:45 PM
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First off where is your temp sensor at? If it's in the head, the temps are fine. On my 406 I had to drill a 1/16 to 1/8" hole in the thermostat to pull hot water up to it. It settled my getting a little to hot before the thermostat opened.

Keith
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:38 PM
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The heater hose must be hooked up. (heater or not)
If you have the rear water ports on your intake manifold
the cooling is more stable if you connect the water pump bypass to the
divers side rear water port on the intake manifold.

If the heater hose/water pump bypass hose is not used or is blocked , the thermostat will surge.
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Old 05-12-2012, 04:12 PM
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ok not too sure about the heater hose deal cuz the car never had any overheating issues before without heater hoses until i messed with the gauges and h20 neck. Also, the temp sensor is in the intake on the drivers side. I actually just pulled it out to check it and i had thread tape stuck to the side of it. The thread tape could have been the issue all along im not sure. I also checked the whole wire for kinks as that too could give me a faulty reading. So, with that being said im going to start it back and let it idle to see if it still overheats.
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:09 PM
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If anyone is even following this thread right now the issue at hand seems to be a faulty gauge. I rounded up a heat gun and checked the temp of the motor and the motor was around 190 while the gauge was showing 240. So apparently i need a new gauge now. Also, while the temp was showing 240 the intake wasn't even warm enough to burn the skin. Also, at 240 there were no signs or sounds of bubbling coolant. When i get that temp gauge out I am going to slam it on the ground a couple of times for all of the aggravation it has caused me. Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:51 PM
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There is the possibility that after you slam that gauge on the ground and destroy it you could still see faulty readings. Have you considered that the temp sending unit itself could be faulty?
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:03 PM
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Overheating problem

It sounds like you have an electric gauge. I had a conversation with a tech from Autometer and he was adamant that the temp sensor must make a good ground at the engine block. His recommendation was that one should use thread tape very sparingly. He recommended putting only one wrap on the topmost threads, leaving the first threads free to make a good ground. Alternatively, you can use thread sealer paste also very sparingly so as not to mess up the ground. You might try this before spending any more money.
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:10 AM
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Sounds like a water bypass issue. The water bypass is that 3rd hole on the block under the water pump output flange (around 3/8" hole). If you block off this hole, the temperature with go up and sown like that.
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