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Old 08-27-2004, 03:28 PM
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383 stroker parts

Hey!
I have 350cid 2-bolt SBC. I want to stroke it to 383cid and take at least 400hp and 6500rpm out of it. I'm going to use forged pistons, but I'm concerned about crankshaft and rods. How much stock 5.7" rods can handle and when these rods don't last 400hp then what rods should I use? I want to use 383 crankshaft, but is there any favoured products? What do these numbers like 4130 and 4340 mean? When forged crank becomes necessary?

I have like 1001 guestions, but I just don't have much time and chance to read myself, so I hope you can help me out!

Thanks!!!

PS: I'm sorry about my english if I made some mistakes or my text was abstruse. I'm writing english very rarely

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Old 08-27-2004, 03:49 PM
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REALLLLY

http://www.dallasexportsales.com/383425LB.htm
http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm

You might want to start with the above two sites. Just to get the understanding of what a 383 really is. They both give you parts lists and ideas of porting etc. I just built one for my truck and found it was just too dam much motor for the driving around that I want to do. So, I built another engine. ROCK HARD 350. Torque, acceleration, mileage, and still breaks the speed laws anytime I want. Even burns both tires with little effort. I just forgot my own first rule. WHAT ARE YOU REALLLLLY GOING TO DO WITH THIS ENGINE?

hr41pearl
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Old 08-27-2004, 03:50 PM
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Get a SCAT or Eagle stroker crank. The stock rods will be fine for your intended use. What heads do you have? What rear gears do you plan on running?
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Old 08-27-2004, 04:17 PM
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I used the 383 SCAT and stock rebuilt rods and it's been fine.

The numbers like 4130, etc are the steel quality. Maybe someone less metalurgically challenged can shed further light.

Also, I would cut back on the expected rpms. I figure about 5,500-6,000 max.
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Old 08-27-2004, 06:16 PM
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To anwser alot of questions I would suggest getting a few book books. "How to build Big inch Small blocks by Graham Hansen is a great book to learn diffrent things you have to know before building one. I'm also making a 383 stroker and for a simple low cost stroker there is less needed but you have to watch because it can quickly become expensive. If you get in contact with me I can tell you what all of my research and planing have found.

the numbers such as 4340 are steel alloy numbers so show the strength of steel.
1010 is basic steel used in stock cranks
1053 is a little better used in some aftermarket GM parts
5140 while is has a higher alloy number it is not a durable or strong as the next metal GM also sells these parts.
4340 is the best you can buy for any street motor.
Scat and Eagle make kits for this. Jegs and summit sell kits but I must say while they are cheap there are some better things out there in the same cost range.

PM me and I will give you more info as to what I have done thus far and what to look and watch out for.
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Old 08-28-2004, 03:42 AM
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So, I've been looking around a bit and I'd like to hear your opinion of some parts:
Crank: Eagle Cast Steel, 3.75" 5.7"
Pistons: TRW Speed-Pro Powerforged

And I don't know what to do with the rods. I don't know my stock rods condition. If they're ok, then I'll use 'em, but if they're junk, what rods should I use? How about Egale 3-D H-Beam 5.7"? H-Beam should reduce clearencing problems?

I have 462624 heads, piece of junk. Still, after heavy porting they are capable to handle at least 430hp and 6500rpm. Originally I'm going to use them, but I'm going to buy new heads as soon as possible.
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Old 08-28-2004, 10:51 AM
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Sounds like you really want new rods......LOL. Waste of money in my opinion, but hey, to each his own. Crank and pistons sound good though. I really don't think you're going to get 6500 RPM out of the stroker. It is made for more off idle torque than high RPM. Keep that in mind when building it and build it around it's strengths. BTW...how much are those rods that you want going for $$$ ? Probably equal to the cost of one good head?
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Old 08-28-2004, 11:38 AM
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Re: 383 stroker parts

Quote:
Originally posted by camaro80

PS: I'm sorry about my english if I made some mistakes or my text was abstruse. I'm writing english very rarely
Worry not! Your English is just fine, especially when compared to some that I have seen from students in my classes that have graduated from local hight schools.

tom
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Old 09-22-2004, 05:46 AM
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But what to think of Holley Lunati engine kits?
383 Stroker Kit
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Old 09-22-2004, 06:42 AM
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Your stock rods will handle that rpm and hp but have them checked over and be sure to use ARP rod bolts. Having a stock rod bolt let go will ruin your day. With the 5.7 rod, you may need to check your your rod to cam clearance though
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Old 09-22-2004, 10:35 AM
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Kits

Camero80. The kits are good units, but pricey. I would check with your local machine shop and see what he can do for you. Also, you might look at what heads are you going to use. Stock is fine, but you might be able to get used Vortec heads which will make the engine breath easier. You also need to look down the road at what water pump you are going to use, brackets you will use for mounting steering, alternator, and air if you have it. What about a CAM, ROLLERS, ROCKERS, and POLISHING. Lots of things left to consider. Good luck.

hr41pearl
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Old 09-30-2004, 09:55 AM
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I've read that some blocks need more and other less clearencing. So I'm worried about my block, what to think of it? Is it a good block for 383 stroker or not? 10054727, 2-bolt.

Last edited by camaro80; 09-30-2004 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 09-30-2004, 11:02 AM
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Normally what causes blocks to be more or less of a pain is the way they were casted. Like everything in this world it is almost impossible for a human to reproduce a 100% copy of something. This holds true when it comes to metal. Even with the same casting numbers your block will be diffrent then the one that was made next in the forging line.
For the most part even if your block needed clearanceing it won't be that hard to do. Many guys have done it. With the parts you picked I think you will be fine. Todays aftermarket parts are pretty darn good for what they are made for. In any case have a good die grinder and clear up a few nights so you can very slowly work at it.

Good luck

Chris
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Old 09-30-2004, 12:26 PM
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Numbers

I can not find your block numbers in any of the sites I use. The only blocks that started with the 100 were big blocks. But even in that forum I can not find your complete set of numbers. So I am hesitant on what you should do next. Maybe you need to recheck those numbers. They are found on the rear of the engine on the drivers side.

hr41pearl
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Old 09-30-2004, 03:19 PM
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That number is correct.
http://www.cehighperformance.com/c_t...lock_codes.htm
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