383 Stroker Question
So I'm looking to start a restoration on my '69 Chevy Pickup. I bought it this last summer when I returned from a deployment. It's in pretty decent shape, but it's going downhill fast. I bought it from a father/son combo that had went through and combined two pickups, used a frame from a '68 K-10 and the body from a '69 C-10. Like I said, it's in pretty good shape, but I'm starting to see problems where they either took shortcuts, or didn't exactly know what they were doing. Example...they had put standard bearings in a 327 that had the mains and rod journals turned down .010, put a homemade body lift on it by welding the bed crossmembers to the frame and putting spacers between the bed and crossmembers. Needless to say, the engine started knocking early and the welds broke loose on the frame. So, I figure it's best to start in on it now before it goes downhill to fast.
Ok, sorry, down to the engine question. I was looking at either building or buying a 383 Stroker. I have built a few stock/slightly modified engines in the past, but it's been 10yrs or more. A turn key runs about $6500 for a 383 Stroker with 450HP. I really don't want to put that much into it if I can do it myself. But, I've read some stuff that said you have to be very careful with clearances and stuff on the strokers. I found a guy here that says he has a 383 Stroker he took out of his car because he spun a bearing. He wants $600 for the oil get up from oil pan to intake. He said he had it built 3 or 4 yrs ago. First of all....how the hell do I even know it is what he says it is without taking it apart? If it is in fact a 383 Stroker is $600 a decent price for one with a spun bearing that just needs the crank turned? Would it be smart to offer him half up front if he'll let me take it apart, verify it's a true Stroker, and get it to a machine shop to be completely checked out? Just throw me some of your opinions and/or advice.
Rather or not it`s worth it is up to you. However, it wouldn`t do to just have the crank turned, you would also have to have the rod the bearing spun on resized and the piston on that rod replaced. Most often when we say "rod knock" it`s not really the rod you hear, it`s the piston slapping the head.
I told a friend of mine this and he didn`t believe me, so he reused the same piston, he wished he would have listened when that piston came apart, bent the rod and the wrist pin wore a groove into the cylinder wall into the water jacket. Also since the trash from the spun bearing will be circulated throughout the engine, you may as well tear the whole thing down, so really, you`d just be starting over. And since you don`t know the wear on the cylinders, the block may need bored, adding more cash to the pile.
Right, I was planning on starting fresh with it as long as the block isn't shot and the crank can be turned. I'd pretty much replace everything but the block and crank. I think I could still have all the machine work done and replace everything else for well under $6500. I'm just concerned that it's completely thrashed inside and the guy is trying to dump it off.
chevy to mazda
i was wondering if you had a machine shop you knew of where you could get some work done. then you could maybe pick up your own salvage yard engine and put your own 383 together
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