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Old 05-19-2005, 01:22 AM
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383 Stroker question

Hello Everyone,

I'm planning to build a crate engine for a friend A 383 Stroker.

I've below information from Mortec
383 = 4.030" x 3.76" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod)
350 block and a 400 crank, main bearing crank journals cut to 350 size
Regarding above Mortec Info. which rod size should I use? How could it be possible to make a 383 with three different rods???

As some friends know, I don't have access to the parts you have access to, so I have to go on with what I have at this part of the world.

I have 350 block.
Stock 400 crank
Stock 350, 5.7 rods
Flat top 350 pistons with 4 valve reliefs.
( Flat Tops we can only find 345 np and Badger b-557's here which are all cast alum. and .020" cut off the heads)

Regarding the cam and carb., no problem I can import from somewhere.

So is it possible to make a 383 Stroker with the parts I can find here? and do I need any special machine job to be done? any decking?

Thanks very to all of you for taking your time and assisting me here.

Take care,
Houman SS '70

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Old 05-19-2005, 03:01 AM
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If you plan on using 350 pistons you need stock 400 rods...i might have a set i could send your way for nothing more than shipping cost but they will need resized. At least free you can claim them as a gift at customs and not lie!
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Old 05-19-2005, 03:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NXS
If you plan on using 350 pistons you need stock 400 rods...i might have a set i could send your way for nothing more than shipping cost but they will need resized. At least free you can claim them as a gift at customs and not lie!
NXS,

Thanks very much for your offer. I really appreciate it.
Acutally, I can find 400 rods, but, stock 400 rods. Do they work with 350 pistons?

And what will happen if I use 5.7 rods? Can you tell me?
I have to use 350 pistons, because 400 pistons are very rare over here.

Thanks again, I'll put you in trouble if didn't find the rods here.


Best regards,
Houman
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:25 AM
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Generally I believe that 5.7 and 6 inch rods will require a piston with the skirts grooved. Because of the longer stroke of the engine you need special pistons to fit in the 4.03 bore and clear the rods.
If you use the 400 rods from what I understood that would be the only way to not have to clear the the piston. That was the "old school" way of doing it.

Your stock 400 crank would have to be resized as well since the main bearing size was larger. ( just like mortec said)

Chris
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Old 05-19-2005, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strikingthematch
Generally I believe that 5.7 and 6 inch rods will require a piston with the skirts grooved. Because of the longer stroke of the engine you need special pistons to fit in the 4.03 bore and clear the rods.
If you use the 400 rods from what I understood that would be the only way to not have to clear the the piston. That was the "old school" way of doing it.

Your stock 400 crank would have to be resized as well since the main bearing size was larger. ( just like mortec said)

Chris
O.K. Chris,

Thanks,

Actually, would it be considere a 383 stroker if I use the 400 rod at all? And is the performance better with 5.7 rods or the 400 stock rods?

Thank for your comments.

Houman
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:27 AM
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Chris,

With the 400 rods, I will not need any modifications?
Any special instructions for building a 383? We have no experts here and no one else has ever done such a thing.

Thank you,
Houman
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:29 AM
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Machine Shop Tom,

Can you give me some kind of support on this?
Our machine shops haven't done such a thing as a Stroker before, is there anything you can tell me to instruct them to do?

Thanks very much for transfering your experience to me.

Bye,
Houman
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houman SS '70
Actually, would it be considere a 383 stroker if I use the 400 rod at all? And is the performance better with 5.7 rods or the 400 stock rods?

Thank for your comments.

Houman
I built my 383 back in '82 using a '74 350 4 bolt main block, 400 crank, stock 400 rods with modified ARP 350 rod bolts as the 400 rod bolts are a little different and you couldn't get Hi Perf 400 rod bolts back then and .030" over flat top cast 350 pistons. The shorter 400 rods will make a little higher peak torque than the 5.7" 350 rods but they'll restrict it's ability to rev a little, the longer rods will make a slightly flatter torque curve and let it rev a little easier. If you top it off with the same heads, cam and intake you have on your 350 or something very similar it's going to be very strong from an idle to 5500 and will rev to 6200 if need be. I had mine in a '72 Chevelle SS with a TH400 and 3.73 posi and it was a blast to drive but you've already heard all that. Be careful though, after you get it together and running you're going to want one.
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Old 05-19-2005, 01:40 PM
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Houman,
I'll let machine shop tom anwser your question about machine work that has to be done he is much more exp. then me at it.

and yes it WILL be a 383 bore and stroke change the CI not rod length.

As for performnce I know that everyone used to use 400 rods but have since switched to 5.7 I would think with the shorter rods you will have more side loading. Just like the diff. between 5.7 and 6 the 400 rods might cause or side loading and slightly more wear but guys did this for years and years so...

Chris
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Old 05-19-2005, 03:31 PM
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Actually Chris,

I think as Hippie has also mentioned, I'll have to go the old school way!!

Because, we don't have a machine shop whom has done such a think ever before, and this will be the first time.
I don't want to do try and errors with a client's engine. Specially that I'm only doing this as a hobby and don't want to get into trouble.

But Glenn, with 400 rods and 350 block 4bolt, and 400 rods, don't I need any other machine job, except the crank journal?

Thanks for your comments, and one more question, would it work with 2bolt main block?

Take care,
Houman
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Old 05-19-2005, 03:53 PM
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2 or 4 bolt will work.

Chris
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:02 PM
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Chris,

In your opinion, will this engine wear out sooner than a 350?
And would you suggest a stroker at all?

Thanks,
Houman
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:11 PM
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I do suggest strokers when possible and if you can get everything together then yes go for it. If it seems like it is going to be hard to get machine work done and such and std. 350 may be a good idea.


Chris
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houman SS '70

But Glenn, with 400 rods and 350 block 4bolt, and 400 rods, don't I need any other machine job, except the crank journal?
Thanks for your comments, and one more question, would it work with 2bolt main block?

Take care,
Houman
It's really no different than turning a 350 crank undersize you're just removing more material. That's the beauty of using the 400 rods you can use stock 350 pistons and the only modification necessary is to grind down the main journals on the 400 crank. It then bolts together with no clearance problems between the rod bolt heads and the cam. The 400 rods use a shorter rod bolt that sits deeper in the rod and provides more clearance. It's not necessarily the "best" way to build a 383 but it is definitely the easiest and it does produce a motor with strong low and mid-range torque. If properly maintained the short rod version should give years of service. You will also need the 400 balancer and flexplate/flywheel but I'm guessing you have access to those.

Best of luck!
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:59 PM
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The crank will still have to be balanced or it will basically be like putting a 305 crank in a 350. The 350 pistons are lighter and the cranks bobweights will have to be drilled or it will shake itself apart.

stay smart, stay lean and mean. use a 350. they can turn 6500 on a stock bottom all day long, try that with a 383 bottom-end and see what happens!
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