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Old 02-01-2007, 11:23 AM
thebellman thebellman is offline
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383 Stroker Question

Hey Guys,

So I'm looking to start a restoration on my '69 Chevy Pickup. I bought it this last summer when I returned from a deployment. It's in pretty decent shape, but it's going downhill fast. I bought it from a father/son combo that had went through and combined two pickups, used a frame from a '68 K-10 and the body from a '69 C-10. Like I said, it's in pretty good shape, but I'm starting to see problems where they either took shortcuts, or didn't exactly know what they were doing. Example...they had put standard bearings in a 327 that had the mains and rod journals turned down .010, put a homemade body lift on it by welding the bed crossmembers to the frame and putting spacers between the bed and crossmembers. Needless to say, the engine started knocking early and the welds broke loose on the frame. So, I figure it's best to start in on it now before it goes downhill to fast.

Ok, sorry, down to the engine question. I was looking at either building or buying a 383 Stroker. I have built a few stock/slightly modified engines in the past, but it's been 10yrs or more. A turn key runs about $6500 for a 383 Stroker with 450HP. I really don't want to put that much into it if I can do it myself. But, I've read some stuff that said you have to be very careful with clearances and stuff on the strokers. I found a guy here that says he has a 383 Stroker he took out of his car because he spun a bearing. He wants $600 for the oil get up from oil pan to intake. He said he had it built 3 or 4 yrs ago. First of the hell do I even know it is what he says it is without taking it apart? If it is in fact a 383 Stroker is $600 a decent price for one with a spun bearing that just needs the crank turned? Would it be smart to offer him half up front if he'll let me take it apart, verify it's a true Stroker, and get it to a machine shop to be completely checked out? Just throw me some of your opinions and/or advice.

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