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383 stroker questions

6K views 31 replies 8 participants last post by  ap72 
#1 ·
I am looking to build a nice 383 for strip use only, but am still on a budget, first off I have read other posts and do not find answers I'm looking for. I would like to know if the 6" rod is better for my strip application, and I'm also looking to run an 11 to 1 Cr with a 64cc head. Will I be able to run this on a mix of 93 and 110 octane, or should I be better off with 10:7.1 cr due to fuel detonation issues, since I'm on a budget I don't need any catastrophic failure. The pistons either way will be forged. Thank you for all your help any info or opinions are appreciated.
 
#2 ·
You will every one of thise answers if you search. This gets discussed here at least twice a week because nobody uses the search feature.
5.7 rods are more common.
11:1 will require fuel with higher than 93 octane. I wouldnt go more than 10.5:1 max.
Go full forged if you think you will want forced i duction, if not then a cast crank steel will be fine but i'd still use forged rods just to be safe.
 
#3 ·
I have always used 6 inch rods

Better rod ratio

Less piston sticking out of the bottom of the bore at TDC with 6 inch rods

Pistons are liter

Balancing with a crank for a 6 inch rods will be internally where some 5.7 rod cranks have to be balanced exteranally.

From what I have seen 6 inch rods in a 383 seems more popular.
 
#4 ·
I think 6 inch rods give you a better rod ratio. But 5.7 are more comon. And I don't think you will have to go forged unless you do nos of forced induction, and that will help your budget alot. And you will have to balence the rotating assembaly no matter what if you want any kind of performance. You don't want to build a shaker. Also you maybe able to get away with the highest octane street gas if you go with alluminum heads cause you can go a little higher in compression but not much. But that is pushing it. I had a friend who did it and it worked... But Im sure he's the exception not the rule.
 
#6 ·
Agreed.

The only thing I don't like about 6 inch rods is the oil ring runs through the pin boss on 383 stroke pistons for 6" rods, I've heard of oil control issues, but never experienced it, I use 5.7 rods in my blower motors. Any gains from rod ratio between the two rod lengths is miniscule, you'll find two schools of thought on that one. JMO
 
#8 ·
Go with wither high or low compression. Trying to crutch the engine to use some gas concoction is just a hassle. For race only, I would got to 12.5:1 and just run straight 110. Each point of compression is about 10% more peak horsepower and an increase in torque at every RPM.
 
#17 ·
what heads do you own?have they been flow tested?what block?
machine work and balancing of a race engine can go as high as $800.oo,,,$250 oo for gaskets and timing chain. that leaves 2k for rotating parts,,, buy a used intake,,good carbs are $600.oo,,,fill in the blanks from here, Good camshaft and kit 375?
 
#23 ·
You can get these rebuilt and ported to meet your goals for less than a grand... or buy some chinese aluminum heads that will more easily meet your goal for $750. Or buy some bad *** darts or afr's or profilers for a little under 2 grand...

For 450hp id get a good used 4 bolt short block, hone and rering it, get procomp 210cc heads with 58cc chambers, a hurricane intake, a good solid flat tappet cam in the 240's range, 1 5/8" long tube headers, and a rebuilt carb (750 or bigger). if you're careful you'll have 450hp on 87 octane for less than $1750...

If you want more put a 100hp shot of nitrous on it.
 
#24 ·
I spent 3k on headers and exhaust. You need to plan the whole trip before you start or it will cost a lot more when you redo things.
You want 450 ish HP? from what? a smal engine or big engine. I used a big small block because I have a vette and wanted a small block. also weigh was my concern,not that my car handles well,I didnt want to make it worse. Whats the market like where you are,maybe find a used engine in your area and rebuild/freshen that? HP is expensive,I spent over 10k on my engine and put it in a 5k car,now my car is worth 5k.I spent more than 10k on other parts to live behind my engine,,, where are you taking your project?
 
#26 ·
I am just looking to build a solid7.5 second eighth mile car, I honestly don't believe I can accomplish this without a set of dart or far heads. Ad you said I'm not the most planned at this point as i am still searching around, I have a fresh short block already I just wanted to build a stroker out of it.
 
#29 ·
There's nothing wrong with spending more to accomplish the same goal, a lot of people do it.

I'm just used to doing the same thing for less. I can't afford labels, and even if I could I wouldn't buy into it, but I go to the shows and there's a lot of slow guys proudly discussing how much they have in their cars and I guess for some it stands as a testament to their comittment.

I still prefer the guys who hit 10's for less than some people spend on their trailer they use to haul their show queens.

Then there's those who have both intellegence and money and have garage built cars running 9's... those are the guys everyone envys.
 
#30 ·
I agree whole heartedly with you but you know what's another thousand bucks when it's something you want I just don't need any catastrophic failure, and I like to use good brand items I agree I could do it cheaper also. You were all a bunch of help and I appreciate it
 
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