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  #16  
Old 04-23-2009, 09:34 AM
sandiegopaul sandiegopaul is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
One test you can do is run the engine at idle for about 10 minutes. Idle is where vacuum is highest, shut it down, pull the carb. If you find oil in the intake you have a intake gasket leak.


Now that is a good suggestion.


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  #17  
Old 04-23-2009, 11:18 AM
barnym17 barnym17 is offline
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What kind of crankcase ventilation do you use? p.c.v, breathers?What valve covers? do they have GOOD oil seperators?
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2009, 12:13 PM
ap72 ap72 is online now
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No one has brougth this up yet, but are you running a 6" rod? is so its because your wrist pin is protduding into the bottom ring land. Its actaully quite common, also why I stray away from short piston compression hts on the street- that and the top ring sees too much heat.
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  #19  
Old 04-23-2009, 08:08 PM
CNC BLOCKS NE CNC BLOCKS NE is offline
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There are differant grades of SYN, oil and some are better and I can tell you this using AMSOIL to break an engine in does not work!!

Compression test does not mean as much as a leak down test at TDC.

We went and looked at a 64 327 vette engine a few weeks ago and the guy said his oil was getting black with is 100 miles on an engine with only 400 miles on it and he had done a compression test and it was between 170 and 200 wish was great but when I did a leak down @ TDC the best cylinder was 10% and the worst was 35% and the rest averaged around 18%

The engine should be hear in the shop to fix the problem and I have a hunch it was not plate honed as I believe a local NAPA shop did the work.

If an engine leaks down more then 8% @TDC it needs a rebuild for sure.
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  #20  
Old 04-23-2009, 09:24 PM
glen242 glen242 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robins44
Its deffiently not enough to put my mind at ease when theres oil out there with much more in it, and the fact that a 10$ bottle more than doubles that amount. I do run 20w50 vr1 conventional and i always add comp cams additive, maybe i worry to much, but i know one thing i wont have to worry about a cam going flat. Also i grooved my lifter bores for added insurance.


Aside from your mind, do you have any scientific evidence/reports that 0.14/0.13 is not enough?
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  #21  
Old 04-23-2009, 10:25 PM
robins44 robins44 is offline
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well no since im not a scientist, why does everyone have to pick everything apart. If you trust it than run it by itself if your like me and like cheap insurance than throw a 10 dollar bottle of zddp additive in. Im not going to sit here and google the **** for ya look it up.
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  #22  
Old 04-23-2009, 11:06 PM
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sbchevfreak sbchevfreak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glen242
Aside from your mind, do you have any scientific evidence/reports that 0.14/0.13 is not enough?



0.14/0.13 of what? Percentage, w/w, w/v, Those #'s don't really say anything. A flat tappet engine needs a minimum of 1200 ppm of zinc and proportionate ppm of phosphourus. Preferrably much higher during break in. GM EOS has over 6000 ppm zinc in a 16 oz bottle, and added to break in oil is a must IMHO. As more and more engines go to a roller follower, and environmental restrictions become tighter, oils will become more critical to flat tappet cam survival. It is my opinion, as a technician, that a half a bottle of EOS per oil change is required with todays off the shelf SM API rated oils.
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