that is engine dyno not Wheel dyno BTW, there is only one wheel dyno shop i know of in town and they charge way to much for a couple of runs.


i left it stock displacement and heads.

just polished up the runners a little bit.

replaced the timing set with an edelbrock unit (there was a shop in town going out of bussiness.. thats how i got all the edelbrock parts)

i have the list on my computer somewhere so i will dig it up and post it tonight.

being one of my first expereinces really tearing into a SBC i was surprised with the performance, the smaller displacement definately lets me rev a little higher.

I've been searching for a 350 block and they seem scarce.Guess even seize blocks go quick.That dirt track engne price sounds great.
I guess maybe I should have asked what motor etc. I should put in my car to get the best mileage?The only engine I found so far is a 305. from a wrecker. thanks Ted

Your right I do have a problem, I can't keep my foot out of it . Even when I'm not it's nothing to brag about, maybe around 12mpg around town. Sorry about the late reply, been busy lately....

Well,there are a lot of good ways to go,depends what you think good is realy,for the money you would be very hard pressed to beat the cost and availability of 350 parts,I put a 350 together for my old 72 3/4 ton GMC,sure,a 383 would of been a little better for tourqe,400 more power yet,377 woulda raped quicker,and a 305 woulda got better mpg,but I just wanted a strong,reliable truck that could get up and sing if need be,that didnt require a second job,I bought a summit forged flat top kit for about $350,a used performer intake that had a 600 holley on it from the freind,a set of camelback heads, and a summit 224/234 .465-.488 with lifters for about $80. All said,machine work,hard seats,the usual,I had about $1500 or so in it,but for that I get a solid 16 on the highway and altho I didnt dyno it,If it aint every bit of reliable 350 horse,Ill kiss your----uglyest cousin! Remember,bore for hp,stroke for tourqe,and how many cubes do ya realy need,knowing the more ya go, so will the fuel. If milage is a more important issue to you,and ya only plan on twisten it to 5000,think about a summit 214/224 and stay at or under 9to1cr,you wont get quite the power,but it will run nice,especialy with higher gears,just another opinion 4 ya."

Keep lookin,theyre out there,buy an old wrecked junker if ya gotta and scrap the rest,you never know,someone might pay you to take one,I know for sure if I wasnt around,and my old lady thought she could get away with it,you could get a truck load of em!

I have built both a 350 and a 383.

The 383 has a ton more bottom end torque period. The one item that really helps is to put in a 6" long rod if you can afford it.

Aftermarket rods (scat 9000 series rods) cost about 30% more than getting a set of stock rods rebuilt and installing a good set of rod bolts.

Otherwise the cost of machining is the same, the remaining parts except the crankshaft are within 10%.

I built a long rod 400 and the torqure curve is flat from 2000 to 4500 rpm.

Try a crane pt number 113931 cam its really good street cam. I ran one in my 383 in a 4200 lbs vehicle and it an excellent cam. With 3.0 gears and a Qjet it got 22 mpg.

The 350 will get slightly better mileage.

depends what your after

You do have to watch for rod clearance on a 6 inch 383,but its no big deal to handle,especially with a small base circle cam.

my 383 is an absolute pig.

That's why I built the thing I guess!

K

Ive had real good luck with gm 5.7 rods,good bolts and reconditioning of course,in the 350,383,and the 400, then clearance is almost for sure a non issue,plus then the pin isnt crouding the rings,but still,always check,colision sux.

If ya got a pig that squeals,its all good!

I still like a bore hog better though,ha ha.

If this is your very first motor stick with the 350, the 383 needs carefull attention to clearence issues:

rods - cam

rods - oil pan rail

I use a 1" wide strip of breakfast crerial box folded over so its duoble thickness as a soft feeler gauge between the cam and rods.

if you want to build a 383 build a 383. Most good machine-shops will take care of clearance issues for you.

K

are summit cams ,other companies copied grind? like the 214deg cam is the edel performer?

sorry out of date thread!
didntmean to resurrect the dead!

no just wrong thread

they're not exactly the same I don't think, you'd have to get a cam card for exact specs

THey're ballpark, but LSA and ramp speed I think is kinda oldschool on the summit cams

I used a couple, they're durable and cheap. Made decent power.

K

hey killer i got a question for ya. in a 383, if the longer 6" rod increases piston dwell @TDC and BDC, wouldnt the piston speed have to increase?because it would have less time to pull up or down then.for any given RPM. and this should give a more complete cylinder fill. i think you may have stated the contrary. am i wrong?

I still haven't even found a block to build anything.Found a 305 and may use it as I want the car running.My 38 Chev is a running car with paint on now.It runs like a thrashing machine tho.
Since cams are brought up,I bought a Crane cam #272 with 216/216, got a deal on it. I was looking at the Comp cam Xtreme energy with 214/224. Couldn't find much literature on either,is there much difference? Thanks Ted

Given the angle of the pull and stroke piston VELOCITY is lower with longer rods. 6" rods are costly with associated parts, not worth it for the street. You could just use 5.7's and be fine. The whole rod to stroke ratio thing is really over-rated. What's the point in making sure you have a 6" rod when you you're not spinning the motor past 5500/6000 and could use the money for nicer heads?

K