Any thing with a cam above mild will be wild

Never make an engine run lean

Who cares about MPG?

Huh? How is a 350, much less a 400 easier to find parts for than a 305? All these parts interchange dude?

What's a 357? Do you mean a 348? My old man has a .357, its cheap to find parts and ammo for

How is a 383 not a good street motor? How is a 377 a good strip motor? That just doesn't make any sence.

K

Thanks for the cam at Summit tip.That's a good deal.Is there any dif in quality?Any other places or links that are good to get parts from? Ted

I agree about the gas mileage. My father-in-law and I both drove from Standish MI to North Carolina. He has a 350 in a truck and still got 19 MPG highway (at 75 mph).

I would still go with the 6.6 although guys have been telling me that due to the 2-bolt style they are prone to rod problems. I am not an engine guy so you might want to ask one of the gear-heads on this site about that.

On quality,Im not sure on the lifters,I think they will sell the cam separate. Like I say,I like the speed pro anti pumps. I have used the package deal though and if you put it in clean and lube it and such they have worked fine for me. There's only a few lifter companies anyway,but lots of different boxes.

A 383 is great if you want to get back in the motor in about a year and a half or two.......
the problem lies in the stroke
the cylinders have a tendency to egg shape at the bottom
resalting in a rebuild a little early for my taste

i agree about the early rebuild. i think its more driver caused,from the torque. it feels good so you keep doing it. the egg shaping doesnt happen on a mild 383. well no worse than 400's

parts are interchangeable...from this to that.

if you are speaking mild motors switching to a 3.75 stroke is the way to keep driveablity,and add a lot of low end. very noticeable even with a mild cam.

how long do you guys go between refreshings?
i havent had my 440 apart other than a intake swap( so easy, its probably quicker than a oil change) in 4 years.

"How is a 377 a good strip motor?"

Massive jugs and a short stroke. It revs into the stratosphere...and we all know how revs affect HP, don't we?

Yea,thats a nice combo,but extra trouble to lesson the 400s power seems a step in the wrong direction to me,a 327 lg crank is cool too,Ive done em both,maybe a dz 302 crank in a 400 would be your thing if thats the direction you want to go.

I'm with rifraf. Any good racer will tell you that 90% of races are won and lost at the starting line, which is where cubes matter most. Nearly anything you can do with a 377 you can do better with a 400, and if you know how to setup your chassis, like built motors, the 400 will hand the 377 its ars every time.

K

Not all racing is drag racing, just ask Ferrari.

It would be my guess a 400 would be the star of the show after the line as well,you see,the 400 may not twist quit as far,but it would be sure to pull a taller gear,its all how you look at it,unless you plan on going crazy dollar wise,most the time you are limited by your valve train anyway,but again,it depends what your after.

Anybody ever tried to adapt a 400 block to use LT1 EFI components? I can pick up a 400 block for a song, re-use my 350 parts and be cheaper than trying to grow my 350 to a 383. If it wasn't for that reverse cooling and opti-spark, it'll be simple.

Is your engine one with the funny water pump?

If not then you can use all your stuff on the 400 bottom end(I think), just drill steam holes in your heads and use 400 head gaskets.

Yup, it's the one with the funny water pump and distributor. I could use an electical water pump, but what I'm more concerned about is the reverse cooling flow adaptation since the front of a LT1 block for cooling attachment is diff than a 400. Plus the 400 has a rear 2 piece seal and the LT1 crank in a one piecer. I've seen kits to retro a one piece seal to a two piece seal, but not visa versa.