Hotrodders Bulletin Board Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Home · Bulletin Board · Project Journals · Tech Article Wiki · Knowledge Base · Photo Gallery · Classifieds · Company Reviews · Calendar · T-Shirts


Thanks! Thanks Top 5 Wiki Tech Article Editors! Thanks!
Updated 11/07/08
#1
Alittle1
169 edits
#2
Crashfarmer
161 edits
#3
Powerrodsmike
125 edits
#4
Techinspector1
112 edits
#5
Oldguy829
85 edits

Read and write hotrodding how-to articles on the Crankshaft Coalition Wiki. See 100+ articles, or read The 8-sentence guide.

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts
Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help > Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #76  
Old 11-25-2004, 11:20 PM
NXS's Avatar
NXS NXS is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,430
Wiki Edits: 0

re: 383 vs 350

I'm confused, it sounds like you want to build a 400, a 377 or a 383? What parts do you want to keep from each engine?
Reply With Quote
  #77  
Old 11-26-2004, 08:16 AM
groundhawg's Avatar
groundhawg groundhawg is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Alabama
Age: 53
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

re: 383 vs 350

My first preference is to use a 400 block with 400 piston (of course), then use the LT1 components from my '93 Vette, e.g. LT1 intake, heads, rod and 1 pc seal crank. Essentially a 377, more or less.

I plan to go with the Isky roller cam, p/n 261272/282. The heads will be reworked to accomodate 2.00/1.56 valves and ported.

My other option (alway a back-up) is to keep what I have block wise, but go with a Scat 9000, 3.75, 1 pc seal stroker crank. I haven't fully thrown this option out the window yet due to unknown potenital for 400 block integration with the LT1 components. Should I go this route, I'll probably back off on the cam to an Isky 261265/272 for the stroker crank will not provide the higher RPM like a 377. The smaller cam will give me more grunt at the bottom.

Reply With Quote
  #78  
Old 11-26-2004, 08:35 AM
NXS's Avatar
NXS NXS is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,430
Wiki Edits: 0

re: 383 vs 350

There may be somebody that knows about this interchange. The 377 sounds very possible.
I think that the only real problem would be in the head to block area.
you could go down to the local parts store and borrow an Lt1 & 400 head gaskets. Place them on top of each other and check to see if all the water passages line up.

That looks like the biggest concern I see, and easy to check too!
Reply With Quote
  #79  
Old 11-26-2004, 04:13 PM
groundhawg's Avatar
groundhawg groundhawg is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Alabama
Age: 53
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

re: 383 vs 350

That's a good idea on comparing the head gaskets. Better than having another block stuck in my garage, of which several already reside.
Reply With Quote
  #80  
Old 11-26-2004, 09:55 PM
groundhawg's Avatar
groundhawg groundhawg is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Alabama
Age: 53
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

re: 383 vs 350

Did some research and found out the following.

1. LT1 head gaskets are not interchangeable with Gen I SBC head gaskets for they have different water passages due to the reverse cooling.

2. To make it work, you'll need to weld an aluminum plate into the reverse flow passages; then provide new routings to interface to the Gen I passages. Plus the oil passages aren't compatible either.

3. Also, the LT1 has it own set of steam holes locations that will need to be coordinated with the 400 block holes.

Sounds like three strikes to me. But then again, I could buy a new set of heads that interfaces with the 400 block. Then I can interface the LT1 intake to these heads per "LT1intake.com". This would allow me to get rid of the Optispark and have a normal distributor.

Dreaming . . . . OK, it'll probably turn out to be a nightmare. Anybody with a bucketful of $$$?

Guess it's back to the stroker crank. Probably be better in the long run with all the hills around here.

Reply With Quote
  #81  
Old 11-26-2004, 11:04 PM
AngliaBob's Avatar
AngliaBob AngliaBob is offline
It just takes time and money
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: New River, AZ
Age: 55
Posts: 210
Wiki Edits: 0

re: 383 vs 350

Jon,
This subject comes up every 2 weeks, it seems. Why don't you put together a subject in the Knowledgebase about it?
Thanks,
AngliaBob
Reply With Quote
  #82  
Old 12-03-2004, 06:25 AM
chevy350mod chevy350mod is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: ohio
Age: 21
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

350 over 383

A 350 with a nice cam and intake with a new injection system would give you the pleasure in the hot rod without the exspence and work with a 383
Reply With Quote
  #83  
Old 12-25-2004, 06:24 PM
bracketeer's Avatar
bracketeer bracketeer is offline
454 Lemans
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Courtenay, BC, CehNehDeh
Age: 49
Posts: 2,048
Wiki Edits: 0

383 vs 377 vs 400 sb

A 377 is a great race motor but least in hp and torque. A 383 is a bad combination and is built by people who do not want to spend the money on a 400 replacement crank. 350 cranks are cheap and easily accessible. Thats why people build them. The 400 built correctly will turn 6500 rpm with a stock cast crank. Give you an extra 27 ci and 35 hp with a 70 cc head with a flat top piston. A stock 5.7 350 rod will give you more dwell and hp but may clip any .500 lift or larger cam. Using a cap screw I beam rod will rectify this problem.

A 377 is a great race motor but least in hp and torque. A 383 is a bad combination and is built by people who do not want to spend the money on a 400 replacement crank. 350 cranks are cheap and easily accessible. Thats why people build them. The 400 built correctly will turn 6500 rpm with a stock cast crank. Give you an extra 27 ci and 35 hp with a 70 cc head with a flat top piston. A stock 5.7 350 rod will give you more dwell and hp but may clip any .500 lift or larger cam. Using a cap screw I beam rod will rectify this problem.

Last edited by bracketeer : 12-25-2004 at 06:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #84  
Old 03-16-2006, 10:43 PM
stroker/ken's Avatar
stroker/ken stroker/ken is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: san antonio, texas
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

377 is better

Quote:
Originally Posted by killerformula
This has been debated. If you have a 400 block, just build a 400, why would you ever want to destroke it to a 377?! Bet my paycheck that a 400 built the same way would run circles around a 377 any day of the week.

K

wrong, a 400 is externally balanced and at a higher rpm the crank starts to flex. In order to keep this from happening you must keep the rpms well under 6500. My 377 will do 8000 easy. I have a 7500 rpm limiter in the msd because during burn outs i was taching out. Ive had em all 350, 383,400, but the 377 pushed my car into the 10.90s from a 11.10 with a 383 and 11.22 with a 400.
Reply With Quote
  #85  
Old 05-03-2008, 02:04 PM
k5blzr383 k5blzr383 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: fayetteville,nc
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

383 vs 350

you want gas mileage. i got a 4.3 v6 for sale that ill build however you want it and send it to you.
Reply With Quote
  #86  
Old 05-03-2008, 02:22 PM
k5blzr383 k5blzr383 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: fayetteville,nc
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

383 vs 350

you can buy a 383 stroker kit balanced and all for around (depending on you generation of engine) Grand on jegs
Reply With Quote
  #87  
Old 05-03-2008, 03:10 PM
SSedan64's Avatar
SSedan64 SSedan64 is offline
JackOfAllTradesMasterOfNo ne
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Macon, GA.
Age: 44
Posts: 1,309
Wiki Edits: 0

re: 383 vs 350

Quote:
Originally Posted by groundhawg
Did some research and found out the following.

1. LT1 head gaskets are not interchangeable with Gen I SBC head gaskets for they have different water passages due to the reverse cooling.

2. To make it work, you'll need to weld an aluminum plate into the reverse flow passages; then provide new routings to interface to the Gen I passages. Plus the oil passages aren't compatible either.

3. Also, the LT1 has it own set of steam holes locations that will need to be coordinated with the 400 block holes.

Sounds like three strikes to me. But then again, I could buy a new set of heads that interfaces with the 400 block. Then I can interface the LT1 intake to these heads per "LT1intake.com". This would allow me to get rid of the Optispark and have a normal distributor.

Dreaming . . . . OK, it'll probably turn out to be a nightmare. Anybody with a bucketful of $$$?

Guess it's back to the stroker crank. Probably be better in the long run with all the hills around here.


Strike #4 Also your 1-piece rear main seal crank will not work in a 400 block.
Reply With Quote
Reply
Back to top


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump




Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 2.3.2 © 2005, Crawlability, Inc.
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:14 AM.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2009. All Rights Reserved.