i have 65 389 with a tripower engine gets hot after running a wile reset timeing , carbs, new fan , new high flow waterpump, 3rd thermastat , new shroud, new 4 core radeator , have antifreeze mixture at 50/50 and have added water wetter and was checked for blown headgasket it was ok i can drive the car about 1/2 hr to 45 min before it gets to aroung 205 and then it just takes off and starts to lose engine vacumn and the power brakes start to fail does anyone have any ideas anything thanks
I'm just grasping at straws, here, but do you happen to have a water pump with the stamped impeller? If so, that may be your problem. Other than that, I don't know.
hi thanks for replying to my post i do not have the stamped impeller i knew obout the problems with them before i got the new one could i have a head gascket leaking that would not show on the haed gascket test i do not loose any antifreeze what do you think of wrong head gasckets i had the moter rebuilt at a co called engine remanufactureing in illinoise if you have ever heard of them well anything you can think of will be helpfull and thank you guys for answering my post
hi it is a 65 the one that has the set of 2 divider plates that doesnt use the rubber seals i even put new plates in i just dont have anymore ideas thanks for your reply
Q #1 What's with the loss of vacuum? I've never heard of that with over heating.
Q#2 Was the re-manufacturer SRC in springfield?
Might want to check the condition of the lower rad. hose. If it even partially collapses after warm up especially with a high volume water pump cooling efficiency will be compromised.
hi i dont know why it loses vacumn to the power brakes when it gets hot the brake pedal is hard and the brakes are on alittle bit not enough to stop the car but enough to slow the car when in nutral coasting but when the car is cool it does not do that i have the spring in the bottom hose i have done everything i can think of i am almost ready to shoot her and put her out of misery thanks guys
The lower hose with the spring in it is the most notorious for collapsing. It rusts or deteriorates over time or if it is out of position (not stretched end to end) it will leave room in the hose for it to collapse.
I didn't even think they made the spring supported lower hoses anymore and went to ribbed style.
I'm not putting all my money on the hose as a problem, I just want to eliminate it as a potential problem.
hi guys yes you can still get a hose with the spring in it at ames that is whats so confusing about the whole thing everything is new every nut and bolt it is just crazy i was praying someone would think of somthing i was overlooking but thats my luck
Could it be lean all the time, resulting in the constant increase in temp until it starts to vapor lock, resulting in loss of engine power and vacuum? What pressure radiator cap. I would have at least a 20 lb cap.
Not for the lack of trying, Patience is a virtue. Sooner or later we're going to figure this out.
Other questions are,
What temp thermostat are you running?
Horizontal core or vertical?
what year and kind of car is the engine in?
I could be wrong but I think there was a separator plate involved on the water pump on pontiac engines.
Was it left out?
Thermostatic clutch fan or flex?
Correct radiator cap pressure?
What type of temp gauge?
Not testing your mech. ability and you've probably asked yourself these questions already but maybe I've hit on something you might have missed.
From your first post I really don't see why you have this problem.
hi guys everything is stock it is a 65 gto 389 tripower everything is new it had a frame off resto i will see what the radeator cap pressure is it does start to vapor lock when it starts getting hot i have adjusted the mixture but it doesnt seem to help turning the screws in richens it or is the other way it is a strong odor in the garage but i dont get any black smoke
the timeing is set at 6 before tdc and i have to check to the total advance the vacumn advance is from the manifold i dont know if that is rite or if it should be ported i will check the timeing and post it in a little wile today i have a advance timeing light so i will let you know what the setting are thanks
is the divider plate properly spaced from the impeller on the water pump i know from experience if its not close enough all the water does is kinda slosh around by the pump and almost none makes it through the engine had that problem
i wish it was somthing that dumb i just checked the timing andit is 6 btdc and my timing light says to run at 2k to check the advance so it comes to 12 plus the 6 initial time and it comes to 18 total with the car running at 2k wile i checked the adv timeing it got to 215 deg and stayed i hooked up vacumn adv and it was still 215 so i held motor reved to about 2700 rpm and it came down to 213 deg then when i let it go back to idle it shot up to 230 and when you let of gas it would go to 0 oil pressure for a second and then come up to about 5 lbs so i shut it down
I question your timing checking. At 2000, 12BTDC or 18BTDC is not enough. Run the engine to 2500 and set advance with vacuum pot unplugged at 36BTDC. The retarded timing will cause excessive cylinder head heating.
that photo mite be a 69 motor they changed the timeing cover that year i mite be looking for a motor so if you have any good sorces for engines let me kn ow thanks
you said its all new so im assuming its just been rebuilt if thats the case how far has it been driven since its been rebuilt have you changed your break in oil yet that may fix your oil pressure for the most part.. is your radiator new or is it the original ...
the carbs are remaned from performance years they are supposed to be the correct internal parts i have no idea what to do next do i need a kit to get more mechanical advance on the distributor and richen up the feul mixture do any of you guys think it could be a problem with the heads or internal somwhere i am close to pulling the moter and replacing it with a 400 but i wanted to keep it as original as possible and i dont know if my tripower set up will fit a 400 oh well let me know if you guys think of anything else
hi yes i have checked the timeing if i am doing it corectly i have 6 deg btdc and 12 deg at 2000 rpm total of 18 deg thats with the vacumn advance disconnected could a bad valve or anything like that be possible and carberator mixture it is in for rich and out for lean rite or did i get that wrong thanks for your help let me know what you think
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