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Old 02-20-2005, 10:30 AM
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3970010

Hi everyone. I am going to purchase an engine with 3970010 as the casting numbers on it. The books indicate that this block could be a 302, 327, or 350. It is a four bolt main and my goal is to convert this block into a 383. My question to all you gear heads is: Can I convert this block into a 383 regardless of the current displacement? All suggestions are welcomed.

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Old 02-20-2005, 10:45 AM
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69-80 SBC 350
You can make the 383 out of that block.
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Old 02-20-2005, 10:50 AM
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3970010

Thanx for the information. I decided to purchase this block since older genuine GM cast iron blocks are getting harder to buy.
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Old 02-20-2005, 12:07 PM
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If you`ve ever heard the statement "look before you leap" it applies here also, The Target Master GM replacement small blocks came with this same casting number, they are made in Mexico, if you look by the casting number and see "Hencho En Mexico" then it`s a mexican block, some of these blocks had there share of problems, and if it`s a Target engine, I would have it magnafluxed and checked over with a fine tooth comb before I ran it. Some have ran these without problems, others have had endless problems out of them, some of them have poor quality control and there made of poor materials. so if it is a target engine, take caution.
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Old 02-20-2005, 12:20 PM
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3970010

I did check on the casting number to see if Hecho En Mexico was stamped on it and no other marking appear other then GM on it. I did collect the following letters and numbers from the passengers side of the motor: CEA1939. I have not been able to decipher this code number.
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Old 02-20-2005, 01:19 PM
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I copied this from another one of my earlier posts:
On small block chevy`s I`ve never seen the suffix code at the start of the numbers, there always last. I did some digging and found the following information, I hope it helps you:
There is another type of stamping found on some blocks. This is the "CE" code. You might see something like this "CE123456" on the front pad of the block deck on the passenger side. The "CE" which alternatively has been known to stand for "Chevrolet Engine" or "Crate Engine" was used on blocks that were warranty replacement motors. The "CE" prefix was also used on "over the counter" blocks and engines. If a customer had problems with his original motor, while it was under warranty, it was replaced with an engine that was stamped "CE" with a number of numeral digits following it which serialized that particular engine. Likewise if a purchaser bought a new motor from the Chevrolet Parts counter, the front pad on the pasenger side of the block may have been stamped with a "CE" code.
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Old 02-20-2005, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
I copied this from another one of my earlier posts:
On small block chevy`s I`ve never seen the suffix code at the start of the numbers, there always last. I did some digging and found the following information, I hope it helps you:
There is another type of stamping found on some blocks. This is the "CE" code. You might see something like this "CE123456" on the front pad of the block deck on the passenger side. The "CE" which alternatively has been known to stand for "Chevrolet Engine" or "Crate Engine" was used on blocks that were warranty replacement motors. The "CE" prefix was also used on "over the counter" blocks and engines. If a customer had problems with his original motor, while it was under warranty, it was replaced with an engine that was stamped "CE" with a number of numeral digits following it which serialized that particular engine. Likewise if a purchaser bought a new motor from the Chevrolet Parts counter, the front pad on the pasenger side of the block may have been stamped with a "CE" code.
I wish I would have read this a week ago when I started this build.

I have a 327 with CE at the beginning, and it stumped me for about a day, but then I just went out and bought a Chevy Parts Interchange book.

3970010 is the block that I started with on the 350 that turned out to be bored 060 over and the cam had a bearing 010 over.
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Old 02-20-2005, 08:09 PM
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3970010

The engine under question used to be on a Chevy wrecker that was used to tow boats with in my uncle's place of business. The engine was hooked up to a standard transmission. The intake has a tube protruding on the front of the engine like the older blocks. I am not really interested on the crankshaft since I will be replacing it with an eagle crank for a 383. The casting numbers do indicate as the block being a 302, 327, or a 350. My original question before I even purchase this engine is: Can I make this engine a 383 regardless of whether it is a 302, 327, or 350. It is a four bolt main by the way. Thanx in advance.
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
My original question before I even purchase this engine is: Can I make this engine a 383 regardless of whether it is a 302, 327, or 350. It is a four bolt main by the way.
Which Has been answered,... Several Times....... It's a 4" bore with 2.10 bearings.......2 pc. rear main seal....
302,... 327,... 350,.... Their All the Same Block......... The Differences are the Crank,...... Which You Don't Care About...........

You've got a GM Crate Motor...... Your Uncle, or Somebody replaced the motor in the Wrecker truck.......

Bore it 0.30 over,+ drop in Your Crank............ There's your 383cid.............
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Old 02-21-2005, 02:54 PM
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If your engine is a 327 I sure would be interested in purchasing the crankshaft out of it if your going the 383 route. Also look in the timing cover area for a 020 casting mark- this would be reference indicating it is a high nickel block which is stronger and usually a better casting. What year truck is it out of? 1969 was the last year for the 327, most of these blocks were usually 350 engines. The oil filler tube in the intake was also dropped in 69 I do believe. Bob
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:20 PM
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3970010 Update.

I purchased the engine today and removed the oil pan. It is a four bolt main engine after all. The block was on a 1970 C-30 pick up truck with the 350 logo on the front quarter panel that I had overlooked. I will be taking the block apart this week end an I will provide pics for all of you that assisted me on this. If anybody is interested in buying a 1969 327 that was originally for a truck let me know.
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:10 PM
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Some good info here.

I just aquired a block from a friend to rebuild and put in my s-10. I have known about the 010 high nickel blocks and luckily this is one of them. 3970010 id the code on it.

Also, the comments about the additional nickel and tin code on the oil filter housing is new to me. So I checked my block and above the oil filter is says

162
020
010

Im assuming theres a 1 percent nickel addition, a 2 percent tin addition, but what is the 162? I cant find a meaning anywhere on the net for this. Sorry to drudge up an old post but it has my curiosity. My friend said it was the best motor he ever had.

Grant
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:51 PM
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Old 03-31-2008, 09:10 PM
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Smile

OK here goes .

That casting number is quite common.
as far as the "high nickle " content this is on the razors edge on who you will believe.

Here is the short story

I also have one of these

When the foundry is cooking blocks whether or not they are pouring "high nickle" or not you DO NOT shut down a foundry because you ran out of castings .

So if they are pouring regular metal & need castings guess what? "grab them 010~020 blocks over there!

OR

The green horn screwed up & grabbed the wrong pallet.

Read the long story here & here

I tend to believe the guy who worked @ a foundry.


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