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Old 11-24-2005, 06:03 PM
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Which 3M Clean & Sprip to use?

Which 3M Clean & Strip is the one to get to get paint off of a '65 Stang. There are a couple of choices to chose from? Where can I get them? Will it leave a surface I can paint or do I need to sand it too?
Thanks, Walt

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Old 11-25-2005, 12:15 AM
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Walt, There are a few different ones but they all basically the same. The difference is, how they attach to the die grinder or drill or what ever you are using it with. The 07466 is a "ROLOC" style and uses the 07500 Mandrel. The 07460 disc uses a "bolt" looking mandrel number 07491.

I am not certain they are the best way to strip a car though. They are GREAT tools for removing paint and rust but they will create some heat thru friction. On a hood or other larger panel areas you could run into trouble.

Have you thought about plastic media stripping? There are places around that do it pretty cheap with NO damage what so ever. Where abouts are you?

If you do choose to strip it yourself, I HIGHLY recommend you to strip it one panel at a time or two at the most. Strip them, get them in primer and then move on to the next panel. Stripping a car complete, seeing a car in bare metal sitting there in the garage can be VERY overwhelming, SERIOUSLY overwhelming.

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Old 11-25-2005, 02:54 AM
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I agree with Brian as far as using those for striping a large panel. They really will heat up a panel quickly trying to strip something like a hood or roof. I think you would be alot better off using some type of media blasting, stripper, or sanding it with 80 grit.

If you do one panel at a time, it really makes the job go faster and easier. That way you are not working on a really big job. It makes the project just a series of smaller jobs.

Take a fender for example. You strip it, epoxy prime it, repair any damage to it, and then look at the basically finished product. You have the satisfaction and pride of finishing that project. Then you go to another panel, like the other fender, or hood. You don't really want to pay attention to the other parts of the car while working on that fender, because then you are picturing more work in your mind. If you have any problems with that fender, you will be picturing even more problems with the rest of the car. you will then be asking yourself, "what did I get myself into"?

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Old 11-25-2005, 06:31 AM
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There's nothing wrong with using chemical stripper to remove the majority of the old paints and primers. If this has only the original paint on it you might be farther ahead timewise to just sand it off but usually these old cars will have three, four or more paint jobs that'll need to be removed. Plastic media blasting would be ideal if there's a provider of that service near you.

If you go the chemical stripper route use masking plastic to cover the wet stripper do it doesn't dry out. If the car is assembled mask the panel openings to keep the stripper from going in the door, trunk, and hood jambs.
I precut a couple pieces of masking plastic to fit the panels that are being stripped, then apply a thick layer of stripper and cover the panel with plastic working any air bubbles out and making sure it's sealed good at the edges. Let the stripper work for a few hours then remove the plastic and scrape off the old paint. Sometimes I let the stripper set overnight with the plastic on.
When the majority of the old finish is removed give the part a good water wash (important) to remove any stripper residue and also to nuetralize any that may not get washed off. Then DA with 80 grit and use your Clean and strip discs on the edges and jambs where a DA won't work. Clean the panel really well and apply two coats of epoxy primer then move on to the next panel. JMO
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Old 11-25-2005, 10:08 AM
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The 'Clean & Strip' discs I'm thinking of work great to strip paint in contoured areas like door jambs, pinchwelds and taillamp pockets, but I would never use one on a big outer surface!
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