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Old 07-27-2011, 05:23 PM
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4.56 Gears

I drove the Mustang today for the first time since pulling it home and getting the distributor, timing, and ignition starightened out. Those 4.56 gears have to go. I've decided to go with the 3.73 gears. I saw the gear set, and I also saw a install kit that includes carrier bearings and races. Is the complete kit necessary? I'm taking the car down to the car care center and a technician will help me do it with all the tools required, but I have to buy everything ofcourse. Also, would it be safe to be a used set? I've seen several on ebay.

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Old 07-28-2011, 10:27 PM
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used ring and pinion are okay as long as they are good. look for pitting. kind of breaks away in small chunky layers from the crown. i would suggest replaceing carier and pinion bearings. usually pinion bearings are the ones to go first and to get at them you have to remove the carier anyway. take your driveshaft off shake the yoke to check for pinion play. once the covers off (unless it doesnt have one, removable pumpkin). take two pry bars and put pressure on each side of the carrier thn move the bars in the same direction side to side and if your carier moves then your side cariers are worn. but of course once its apart check for pitting on both bearing rollers and races. good luck!
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:45 PM
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I ran a used set of FoMoCo 4:11's in my Nova's 9+ housing, with a Daytona carrier for a while. You can never match the wear pattern, and they tend to howl because of it. I put in a new set of Strange gears and it all went away. It's a common thing to have noise in a set of used gears.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:58 PM
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for the price of a new ring and pinion for a little diff i wouldnt mess around with a used set anyway. and yes sometimes used gears are a pain and take several shim set ups before they shut up.
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Old 07-29-2011, 04:58 PM
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Re

Thanks for the responses. So this could be a DIY project, or is it best to take to a shop? I'm pulling the transmission out and I figured while I have the driveshaft out, I should go ahead and swap those gears out. I'm learning this stuff as I, and I will tackle any project, just dont want to jump in over my head and end up having to tow the car to a shop anyway.
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Old 07-29-2011, 05:22 PM
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unless you have some experience with pressing bearings on and off i wouldnt suggest so much a diy its nothing really complicated but it takes some skill. if you dont own a press the fast way to do it is as follows. and for the people who will comment and disagree with this method sorry but i have made tens of thousands rebuilding 8.8 fords 8.5 chevs etc. to get the bearings off the carrier take your torch cut the cage away, all the rollers will fall away then heat the inner race evenly until slight color change. note. do not take to long to heat the race as the carier will get hot also and you will not acheive anything but damage. so lots of heat and about 15 seconds should be all you need. then at the farthest outside edge of the race blast a hole with the torch then take your air chisel and hamer it off. same directions apply to rear pinion bearing.

instalation of bearings. make sure if you knarled the shafts the bearing is going to press onto at all (which you might the first time around) take sand paper and make sure there are no high spots. if you have time on your hands put your carier and pinion in your freezer for a couple hours. then take your bearings and heat up the inner race slightly. only a bit though you do not want to see any color change. the bearings should just fall into place no pounding or press required. if you chose not to do the hot cold method then take your bearing and a good punch (i use a 1/2 wide chisel ground flat to be about 1/4 inch thick) and a medium sized hammer and pound evenly on the inner race until seated.

make sure you dont misplace or install any shims incorrectly. note when removing bearings from pinion and carier. shims may be installed under the bearing. you will more then likely have to play with pinion depth so find a good manual with patterns and all that.


if your diff has a crush sleeve use a ford motor co crush sleeve as they are WAY easier to crush than CR or most aftermarket.

this obviously isnt the entire procedure i just told you the things you wont find in the book.


good luck
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