I am mocking up the front of my 32 Ford sedan. I have a Super Bell I Beam 4" drop w/ front 4 bar link. It figures that I would run into some snags on a holiday weekend and no tech staff on duty to answer questions.

A. Does the adjustment end of the bar go toward the rear? If so then which way would the angle of the bar face? Should the bat wing be angled toward the frame or parallel with the frame? If I put the adjustment to the rear the end does not fit flush against the frame. If I put the adjustment toward the front the angled end then fits flush. See pic of angle on the bar.
If anyone has a pic looking down on a similiar setup it would help.

B. To mount the bars should I have the weight of the car on the axle, square it to the frame then place the bars against the frame and mark the mounting holes/plate?

C. Should the frame be boxed (frame is boxed forward of this position) where the top bar mounts to the side? There is a part of the X frame close to this but should still have room for a plate. (see pic - the bar will mount close to the rear hole of the old steering box mount - I plan to fill the holes later)

Hope I am making sense.

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I don't know if I'll be a whole lot of help, but i can tell you what i did, and there are a couple of pictures to follow the thread. I built my frame from scratch , so there might be some differences as to how your brackets mount to your frame. I mounted my bars with the adjuster to the rear, as thats the way the instructions i got with my 4-bars read. As far as the mock up goes, i took all the springs out of my leaf , except the main leaf(the one with the eyes on it). Then i put the axle , with the leaf on , back in the crossmember. I set the axle on blocks, with a 4x4 under each frame rail , and a 2x6 running across the bottom of the axle. That gives you 6 inches of ground clearance under the tube, and still equals the 12 or 13 inches that most wheels and tires are to the centre of the spindle. I'm going with either a 14 or a 15 inch wheel, so this may change if you are running bigger wheels(16, 17, etc...). This seemed to work pretty good for me, as with all the leafs back in the spring and a big block chev in the frame the car sits pretty close to where i had planned. As far as your brackets go... like i said this will probobly be different than what I ran into because of frame widths. I had to cut the brackets that were supplied and drill the top hole through the frame. From my understanding, and what I have read, when all is said and done, your four bars should be as close to being parrallel to the ground as possible. Hope i was some help... good luck.

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The threaded ends go next to the Bat-wings ...


I usually do not have the weight on the frame ... I just use a single leaf spring ... and have the axle squared ... using the king pin holes to a constant hole on the frame ... with the adjustable bars in the middle of their adjustment. The photo above has had the spring I am using installed ... but it was done with a single leaf spring.



I box the entire frame before ... adding suspension ...




You may want to look at my project journal ...

Oh no !!!! I've got my bars mounted with the adjusters facing rearward. Duece, is there any particular reason for this? And if i leave my bars backwards , as it seems i have them now, what happens? does it change the way the bars work?.. This is my first rod as well , and i'm new to most of this early hot rod stuff..... still learning

Every frame is different ... and your being a custom fabricated one ... the rules may not count ... But on a 32 Chassis with the 4 bars being made for a 32 Ford ... the non-adjustable ends fit the frame contour ... the other way throws the angle off ...

Look at the frame blueprint for a 32 Ford ... see how the frame has a good bit of inward taper ... almost 8 inches from the front of the rails to where the 4 bar attaches. You have to have a angled end on the bar ... to have a parallel 4 bar set up

Thanks again Duece. You have saved my entire weekend. Now I can continue forward till the next snag/question.