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Old 01-20-2010, 06:38 PM
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To 4-Link or not. Best for Drag Racing

Ok guys, I'm back asking for more opinions on a suspension. I would appreciate if this thread did not end up in a heated debate, I'm just trying to learn more than I already know and this is the best place to come for answers.

First, my "89" S10 that I have built for the drag strip only, has been using the stock leaf springs in the rear with the narrowed 9" Ford rearend. When I first built the truck and took it to the track, you guessed it, bad wheel hop. I then fabbed up my own version of a Cal-Trac system and installed it which greatly helped. Hardly any wheel hop at all now. Sometime ago I was asking about what I needed to do to get my 60' times down to around 1.4 or so as they were like 1.8 the last time we ran the truck. Someone suggested going to a 4-link setup to help get the power planted. I have been reading about leaf springs, coil springs, Cal-Tracs, 4-links, ladder bars, etc. and have come to a conclusion that I am lost and . I have a website that has pictures of the build and please feel free to look (http://desselleracing.com), click on Photos to see. After you have looked at my setup, I would welcome any comments or suggestions on improvement. The last time we ran the truck, it was running pretty consistent mid 11's but with the motor I have, I think it should run better. That's where the suspension questions come in to play. I am a good fabricator and welder and I can fab up all the parts for a 4-link but I don't want to go to the trouble if it won't help that much. We are pretty much Hillbilly racers but we have fun.

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Old 01-20-2010, 07:40 PM
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Link won't work, and fill us in on your current engine, converter, rear gear and tire size so we know what we are working from.

If the truck currently hooks, a different suspension won't make you any faster. Does it hook very well at this point in time??
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:28 PM
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http://www.desselleracing.com/
Build Info link>> http://desselleracing.com/build.htm
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:08 AM
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Mike, it might help for you to post more about your specific combo, Torque and HP, gear ratio, stall speed, 60', trap speed, weight, etc. To me, it looks like the truck sits pretty high, front and rear.
I ran a 427 Vega I built for quite a while, prior to that, I ran it with a 327 for about 16 years, and one of the best tools I found to figure out what's going on with it is video. You can see the chassis reaction, what the tires are doing front and rear, and so on.
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickracer
Mike, it might help for you to post more about your specific combo, Torque and HP, gear ratio, stall speed, 60', trap speed, weight, etc. To me, it looks like the truck sits pretty high, front and rear.
I ran a 427 Vega I built for quite a while, prior to that, I ran it with a 327 for about 16 years, and one of the best tools I found to figure out what's going on with it is video. You can see the chassis reaction, what the tires are doing front and rear, and so on.
Well, I have never had it dynoed so I don't exactly know the HP & torque. It is a BBC 461 running cast #215 heads fitted with 2.19/1.88 valves & blended. Guessing around 12:5.1 compression as it has LS6 dome pistons (L2257) if I remember right. Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake w/1150 Dominator. I have been told I need a smaller carb and am looking for one. Cam is a COMP Cams 11-219-4 Magnum Solid Camshaft with stock ratio Scorpion roller rockers & stud girdles. Tranny is a TH400 w/4500 stall & trans brake. Rear is a narrowed 9" Ford w/ 4:56 and Auburn Full Spool turning the Hoosier 33/16.0/15 slicks. In a previous thread about this setup, the carb size and convertor was discussed, both being to large. The other issue I had last year was over revving before the traps and having to pedal it to keep the rpm's down. Was told that could be the convertor slipping excessively. I'm just trying to get it to run faster this year. Our website has all the time slips listed if that will help out.

You are right RickRacer, the rear does sit pretty high but I don't know how to get it lowered. It's sitting on stock S10 leaf springs that only has 2 leafs and stock shackles. Also, I would have to change the rear wheels and tires to lower it much but I'm looking into that too. I would love to have the tires sit inside the tubs like they are meant to do and get the rear low.

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Old 01-21-2010, 08:37 AM
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I would have thought 4.56s would almost not be enough gear for a tire that size, I was running a 27" tall tire with 4.88s on the street, and went to a 28" slick to turn mid 130 trap speeds, but I was twisting my 427 up a fair bit higher than you wanna twist yours. I'd say you've likely got a problem in the trans or converter. I'd also agree you probably want a little smaller carb, tricked out 850, or maybe a 1050. I suspect it would help your short time. I would probably go ladder bars or 4 link. Ladder bars are cheaper, and a lot simpler, frame and adjustment wise, usually have enough adjustment to get most race vehicles to hook. 4 links are the ultimate though, but for a bracket vehicle, I'm not sure the expense or hassle is worth it. I think if I were you, I'd drop down to a 14/32, go to a smaller carb, maybe revamp the frame for a lower ride height, see what's up with the trans or converter, probably drop to about a 3800~4000 stall.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickracer
I would have thought 4.56s would almost not be enough gear for a tire that size, I was running a 27" tall tire with 4.88s on the street, and went to a 28" slick to turn mid 130 trap speeds, but I was twisting my 427 up a fair bit higher than you wanna twist yours. I'd say you've likely got a problem in the trans or converter. I'd also agree you probably want a little smaller carb, tricked out 850, or maybe a 1050. I suspect it would help your short time. I would probably go ladder bars or 4 link. Ladder bars are cheaper, and a lot simpler, frame and adjustment wise, usually have enough adjustment to get most race vehicles to hook. 4 links are the ultimate though, but for a bracket vehicle, I'm not sure the expense or hassle is worth it. I think if I were you, I'd drop down to a 14/32, go to a smaller carb, maybe revamp the frame for a lower ride height, see what's up with the trans or converter, probably drop to about a 3800~4000 stall.
Thanks Rickracer. The cam I chose has a 2500-6500 power range and with a 4500 stall, I think I'm losing alot off the line in just slippage, what do you think? Since my upper RPM goal is 5500-5800, that don't give me much room with a 4500 stall. The height of the rear is something I have to look at as I have the rear sitting on top of the leafs now to get it as low as it is
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:57 AM
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The converter can make ALL the difference in the world. I build a front motor smallblock/PG/9" dragster for my boss's son, he got a GER 5500 for it, and the best we could do with it was a low 9s, high 8s, with lots of vibration in the traps, scrapped that GER converter and went to a JW 5500, changing nothing else, and went a best of 8.52 @ 152, and smooth as a baby's bottom. You really want to pick a converter that stalls right at where the "meat" of your torque curve starts.
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