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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2008, 11:19 AM
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It is true that you do over 60% of the braking with the front wheels, but is has been observed that if you adjust too much anti squat into a street driven car you can get rear wheel hop under heavy braking.

I understand that it is an extreme situation, but thought I should mention it.

To be honest, I've seen some cars with fairly serious motors and gearing hook up really good with 4 bar setups.

Later, mikey

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2008, 06:02 PM
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Thanks again Mikey. I will do some looking on the sites you showed.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2008, 12:42 PM
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My chassis came with parallel link set up much to my dismay after ordering it specifically for 4 link. I reworked the frame brackets for some extra holes then made my own bracket for the rear end. I also added my own panhard bar. I use the urethane bushings but I think I'll eventually have to go back to the rod ends and seals as the urethane just get pounded out after a while. It's a little quieter but I think the real difference is that there is more "sharpness" from the road impacts transmitted to the driver feel. Not so much noise if the bolts and rod ends are tight.

I think the 4 link is more adjustable for traction than the parallel link. You trade a bit of ride comfort but when you step on it, the car will hook rather than spin.

You do have to have a stiff enough chassis to make it work however. Most of the A Bone chassis leave a lot to be desired here though. You may have to add an x member and crossmembers to increase the torsion stiffness. This of course will make the exhaust system more difficult to build. It is just another facet of hot rodding.

Aren't you glad you aren't an automotive engineer and have to explain in the design engineering meeting why you need one more manufacturing dollar for suspension and you are going to add one pound to unsprung weight. Note that at the head of the table are cost accounting mgr, chassis design mgr, ride contol engineering, saftey engineering, and manufacturing mgrs. haha Also note that in the corner of the room is a post called the whipping post along with a tall cone shaped hat.
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Old 02-22-2008, 01:21 PM
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Thanks bentwings. I made the frame myself with 2X4 tubing and do intend on installing an X member for torsional strength.I thought the rod ends would be a lot louder than the urethane.I am going full fendered so I don't think the exhaust will be an issue but I will find out when I get to it.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2008, 02:59 PM
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I think some of the ride problems are pre-conceived. In other words you think it is better or worse because of the change which should make it better or worse. If some one were to make changes unknown to you it would be easier to note the differences.

My son and I tried this on his sand buggy. Quite frankly I couldn't tell the difference between a 100 pound difference in spring rate nor minimum control and maximum control of the shocks. But I sure could when I knew what the change was. If we could have put a clock against lap times I would guess there was a difference but as far as handling it was just as quick responding at opposite ends of the settings from what I could tell. We did this several days running and about all we did was get a lot better at driving a very fast machine over some really rough terrain.

I used to have variable on the fly adjustble shocks on my T-Bird Super Coupe. These you definitedly could feel the difference especially on the highway. Whether they were better or not that I can't say as I spun it out under both settings on the same test pad. It was more a matter of how you liked the ride. Stiff or less stiff.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2008, 04:51 PM
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there is a company called suicidedoors.com they will custom build you a 4 link set up for just about anything
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:47 PM
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Thanks,I am waiting on a catalogue from them .
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2008, 07:09 PM
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you might also want to look into whats called a watts link i here there work good
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