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4 link suspension help
i have never built a 4 link before i understand how it works and how it needs to be built but i got my hands on some 1"x1" square tubing for free that is about 1"OD and 3/4" ID is that strong enough for a 4 link or shouls i get hevier stuff? someone please help me
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It should be strong enough ... but the square tubing really eats up the space under the car. Then you have to fabricate the ends, weld them on ... come up with the proper bushings ...
Sometimes it is cheaper, safer and just better to buy a 4 link kit ... |
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If you do feel like fabbing something, you might consider a 3link. This is very common on oval track cars, but somewhat rare on street rods. It offers a couple of advantages over a 4link, however. One is that there will be no binding during cornering. The other is that it can be configured so as to cancel any value of driveshaft torque, meaning that the rear tires will be equally loaded on launch. See Page 6 of my blog for setup:
http://home.earthlink.net/~whshope The above assumes you were talking about a 4link for the rear suspension of a beam axle car. |
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im actually putting it on a 72 GMC 1/2 ton
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should it still be ok????
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IM(not so)HO that is too small of material. I would much rather see you using thick wall 1.25 or 1.5 in. round seamless tubing.
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Quote:
For rod ends, go to a place that rebuilds leaf springs. I know rubber bushings are not as pretty as Heims, but they'll handle the loads dependably. |
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well the deal is i am actually planning on using rubber bushings, and im not usingthe truck for racing it is a daily driver, but i really appreciate the info ill def. look for some thicker scrap peices at work
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i'm building a three link setup on my 85 toy and i'm using 2" square the same stuff that you would make a tow hitch out of. My budy did the same thing and used 1.5" square tude and he hasn't broke bent or done anything to it and it's just fine but like everybody else told you i would definetly go with something bigger. That 1" might be ok for the track(panhard) bar
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awesome, thanx a lot guys i really appreciate the help!
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no problem glad to help
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That is not nearly heavy enough. You need to go up in diameter and thickness if you are using mild steel tubing, especially if it is not seamless. Make sure you TIG the rod ends to make sure you get a durable weld.
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for bluebu car does nt go strt.adam1236corvette
not offended.i think it is in the origanal scaling.per chassis bldrs sets-on scales-loaded/race rdy-top rt bar neatrl/all wght in/rear anti rol bar neatrl/pin angl 1.1dwn/ft shks-lt1.5 frm tite/rt 1.75 frm tite..rr shks-lt-top 7-midl/rt 7-midl/botm lt-3 frm loos/rt 3 frm loos..tire 17x33/5lbs.ftend 11.8/o/ toe 1/16 scale=ltft648/rtft 497/ltrr 630/rtrr 581--.addd preload to rt top bar to get 21lbs mor thn lt rr.now rear is lt596/rt615..60ft=1.15/1.14/1.16/1.15 only 4 p****.leavs 2 chlk equl marks.on all runs..never mde full pass.after it 60 fts it drivs to rt!on all 4 pss.found lt rr tire SMALLER thn rt rr?it shld go left!!.add preld 2mor flts stil went rt at speed.lifted went went strt.fixed tire circ.-both 102".my plan is to rescale /start same as original/but instead of adding the 21lbs preld--first jack lt frt spring to make rear tires the same than add 21lbs preload.also rr shks low adjst-lt had 11clks/rt had 10 clks..i will set them at lt shks 3clks/rt 2clks...on 4th pass it left straight but after 60ft ++it startd gong rt,i liftd then got on it more and more it went lt harder.et was 8.91/110mph,i lifted... i plan on going to maple grove on 8/27+etown on 8/28 asap.illcheck your rply on wed10/17..thanks adamt1236corvette..
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