4 link vs. triangulated 4 link. rear suspension
How about some pros and cons of each system.
Here is my thought this is for a streetrod about 325 hp. 2800 #, automatic big fats on the rear, narrowed rear end.
It will be at the strip maybe two or three times in its life.
A triangulated 4 link is great for street..no noise smooth riding, no real adjustments. However getting it to hook up at the track might be tough. Even on the street.
Could a true 4 link be set up for the track then reset for the street. Parallel bar fashion. this would use a narrow rear end. A panhard bar is going to be pretty short so I would expect some sideways movement of the body/frame relative to the road. is this practical or just dreaming. I already have seem a broken diagonal track bar and a very noisy Y yoke system on cars that are driven on the street so those are out.
Most of the problems you have seen are caused by the owners design. You want durability? then stay away from the "drag race" sized rod ends and put some beefy components under there. When you make your rods make them out of heavy gauge mechanical tubing larger than 3/4 inch and make them as long as possible. Gusset everything and TIG weld the whole shooting match together. A nice four link setup with a rocker style panhard assy mounted to the axle housing is probably the best all around, most launch hop problems with this design are due to deflection in the components and inadequete shock/angle damping. Have a look at some offroader type installations and see how they are built, these guys build them tough (not for looks) and can't afford any axle hop at any time.
Thanks 4 jaw,
You make some very valid points. The "watts" link system is very good at limiting side to side movement if properly mounted. It will work in a confined space too. All of my stuff is TIG welded because that is what I do best so that is a given.
Bottom line is make it tougher than you think is necessary then add a little more.
With all of the high power crate motors and big tires available now, it requires a very tough rear end and mounting to survive "over the road" use.
thanks for the comments.
I will first say that with a 325HP mill you really dont need a 4 link unless for handling purposes on the street. It this case a Three link is probably better.
The drag racing style rod ends are as good as they get. I am using 3/4 inch with hard races, no urethane crap. Those will wear out and will have the slop you are talking about. As for the bars I would bought a CE kit. It comes with 1 inch ID Chrome Moly Bars with 1/8 wall. That is some damned strong stuff. You have to get the pro kit, not the cheap one though. Also buy the best rod ends. They will run you about $50 each. As for the track locator, a diagonal link works very well and keeps thing straight on launch. Dont use a panard bar as it will cause the rearend to shift in the arc of travel. As for the hop, it is usually due to improper set up. A good rule of thumb for a mild setup is locate the bottom bar at 3 degrees down and the top bar in the highest hole possible. This is suppose to be a good starting point.
I think 4 jaw and s-10 have made some godd points. Here is my take. Like s-10 has stated with that light of car and mild engine a min. of trick suspension is needed. If you just want something that looks trick and has some adjustment to ittake a look under some of the new dirt modifieds. Most of the around here have a 3 link with 3 shocks. I haven't played with one yet but have been watching what the different adjustments do and how much they change the car. I know I'm talking about a dirt car here but the idea is the same. They guys tell me that build them that this has allowed them a more forgiving chassis. They say they don't have to go super soft in back to get it to hook on those hard tires they use. Jet Mod uses this on his new stuff and I think Dirt Works has a chassis with this set up at least as an option. This is what is going in my next toy. But hey I like to have something different. Good luck, Ryan
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