4 link vs. triangulated 4 link. rear suspension - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2002, 09:32 PM
bentwings's Avatar
bentwings
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: St.Paul, Minn
Age: 72
Posts: 1,793
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 15 Posts
Post 4 link vs. triangulated 4 link. rear suspension

Hi,
How about some pros and cons of each system.
Here is my thought this is for a streetrod about 325 hp. 2800 #, automatic big fats on the rear, narrowed rear end.
It will be at the strip maybe two or three times in its life.
A triangulated 4 link is great for street..no noise smooth riding, no real adjustments. However getting it to hook up at the track might be tough. Even on the street.
Could a true 4 link be set up for the track then reset for the street. Parallel bar fashion. this would use a narrow rear end. A panhard bar is going to be pretty short so I would expect some sideways movement of the body/frame relative to the road. is this practical or just dreaming. I already have seem a broken diagonal track bar and a very noisy Y yoke system on cars that are driven on the street so those are out.

bentwings

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2002, 06:06 AM
4 Jaw Chuck's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 46
Posts: 4,900
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 72 Times in 60 Posts
Post

Most of the problems you have seen are caused by the owners design. You want durability? then stay away from the "drag race" sized rod ends and put some beefy components under there. When you make your rods make them out of heavy gauge mechanical tubing larger than 3/4 inch and make them as long as possible. Gusset everything and TIG weld the whole shooting match together. A nice four link setup with a rocker style panhard assy mounted to the axle housing is probably the best all around, most launch hop problems with this design are due to deflection in the components and inadequete shock/angle damping. Have a look at some offroader type installations and see how they are built, these guys build them tough (not for looks) and can't afford any axle hop at any time.
__________________
Outlawed tunes from outlawed pipes
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2002, 10:29 AM
bentwings's Avatar
bentwings
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: St.Paul, Minn
Age: 72
Posts: 1,793
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 16 Times in 15 Posts
Smile

Thanks 4 jaw,
You make some very valid points. The "watts" link system is very good at limiting side to side movement if properly mounted. It will work in a confined space too. All of my stuff is TIG welded because that is what I do best so that is a given.
Bottom line is make it tougher than you think is necessary then add a little more.
With all of the high power crate motors and big tires available now, it requires a very tough rear end and mounting to survive "over the road" use.
thanks for the comments.
bentwings
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2002, 11:36 AM
TurboS10's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Auto Terms and Definitions Used in Modern Engine T... Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Texas
Age: 36
Posts: 3,463
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I will first say that with a 325HP mill you really dont need a 4 link unless for handling purposes on the street. It this case a Three link is probably better.
The drag racing style rod ends are as good as they get. I am using 3/4 inch with hard races, no urethane crap. Those will wear out and will have the slop you are talking about. As for the bars I would bought a CE kit. It comes with 1 inch ID Chrome Moly Bars with 1/8 wall. That is some damned strong stuff. You have to get the pro kit, not the cheap one though. Also buy the best rod ends. They will run you about $50 each. As for the track locator, a diagonal link works very well and keeps thing straight on launch. Dont use a panard bar as it will cause the rearend to shift in the arc of travel. As for the hop, it is usually due to improper set up. A good rule of thumb for a mild setup is locate the bottom bar at 3 degrees down and the top bar in the highest hole possible. This is suppose to be a good starting point.
Chris
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-23-2002, 12:44 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Missouri
Posts: 104
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I think 4 jaw and s-10 have made some godd points. Here is my take. Like s-10 has stated with that light of car and mild engine a min. of trick suspension is needed. If you just want something that looks trick and has some adjustment to ittake a look under some of the new dirt modifieds. Most of the around here have a 3 link with 3 shocks. I haven't played with one yet but have been watching what the different adjustments do and how much they change the car. I know I'm talking about a dirt car here but the idea is the same. They guys tell me that build them that this has allowed them a more forgiving chassis. They say they don't have to go super soft in back to get it to hook on those hard tires they use. Jet Mod uses this on his new stuff and I think Dirt Works has a chassis with this set up at least as an option. This is what is going in my next toy. But hey I like to have something different. Good luck, Ryan
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.