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Old 02-26-2010, 09:20 PM
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4 mth storage new sbc...Prime oil again?

Guys, I have my fresh rebuild 383 in my chevelle, and it has been sitting cold for four months now. I ran it on the stand, and broke in the cam etc, just before winter. I am ready to turn the key in the car again very soon ( as weather permits) to take the maiden backroad voyage. My question is...do i have to reprime the oil system again? I know it wouldnt hurt, but the last time I did it, it took me three HOURS to get the dizzy to drop into the oil pump shaft. For some reason, it kept leaning to the back side. And now, with the motor in the car, Im worried that condition will present itself again...and worse with the increased angle. Do you think it will hurt if I dont reprime? Thanks for any thoughts.

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Old 02-27-2010, 01:05 AM
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it wouldn't hurt as a precaution , I have had blocks sit for years and never reprimed as long as the filter and pan where full , if you don't want to pull the dizzy try making a preloader and use one of the oil ports ( one at the front of the block and prime it from there or from the pressure sensor ) I use one of them pressurized air cans and fill it with oil its worth every cent I spent for it .http://www.silver-seal.com/c=STAzt1T...nk---ELO5.html , there used to be a prelube in a aerosol can but I cannot find it anymore ( it was made just for stored engines ) if you want to risk it you can pull all the spark plugs and use the startermotor to pull the engine over to lube it all up , just make sure your filter is preloaded with oil 1st as it will shorten the pumping time .
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Old 02-27-2010, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lngliv3
Guys, I have my fresh rebuild 383 in my chevelle, and it has been sitting cold for four months now. I ran it on the stand, and broke in the cam etc, just before winter. I am ready to turn the key in the car again very soon ( as weather permits) to take the maiden backroad voyage. My question is...do i have to reprime the oil system again? I know it wouldnt hurt, but the last time I did it, it took me three HOURS to get the dizzy to drop into the oil pump shaft. For some reason, it kept leaning to the back side. And now, with the motor in the car, Im worried that condition will present itself again...and worse with the increased angle. Do you think it will hurt if I dont reprime? Thanks for any thoughts.
I wouldnt think so. I aint no engine guru, but after were done our 7+ month winters and the cars,bikes,etc come out theres not a single pump prime that I've ever done or seen and never seen an engine lost to it. If their stored right, fire em up and go
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Old 02-27-2010, 07:16 AM
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Might want to check into the Napa premium oil filters with Anti-drainback valves. Oil pressure starts building sooner on cold starts. I have them on all my vehicles. My GP 3.1 used to rattle when started cold for a second but it went away after switching. Same thing on my 4x4 350 on those 15 degree mornings.
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Old 02-27-2010, 07:33 AM
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I happen to have a Napa filter on it right now (lost 15 psi of pressure with a Fram) so, I think I should be O.k. Thanks for the replies everyone.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:06 AM
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You might want to disable the ignition till you see oil pressure on the gauge,
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Old 02-27-2010, 11:05 AM
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Hi,
If I wasn't going to prime it, I would make sure that the carb squirts gas so it will start immediately, that will get the pressure up quicker with less dry spinning waiting for pressure.
Rich
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sooper
I wouldnt think so. I aint no engine guru, but after were done our 7+ month winters and the cars,bikes,etc come out theres not a single pump prime that I've ever done or seen and never seen an engine lost to it. If their stored right, fire em up and go
I agree, especially since you ran the engine after rebuild and broke-in the cam . Our N. Illinois winters aren't as long but still 4-5 months between storage and restart without priming. If it makes you feel better, remove the sparkplugs and crank it until you see oil pressure.
And don't worry about oil filter draining while in storage. Can't happen in a SBC the way the filter is oriented upside down.
Terry
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:00 AM
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Thats what the anti drainback valve in his Napa filter is for.

My 350 used to rattle bad until it started building oil pressure on really really cold days. About 3 seconds with a fram filter. I heard about drainback valves and read up on how they work, so I bought one that napa had and have had no more problem with that. The pressure starts building soon as the motor starts, and it starts real fast!

Last edited by sqzbox; 03-02-2010 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnovot
.... If it makes you feel better, remove the sparkplugs and crank it until you see oil pressure....
It isn't really necessary to remove the plugs, just disable the ignition, you don't really build any significant cylinder pressure (AKA LOAD), till fuel and air starts burning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by richard stewart 3rd
If I wasn't going to prime it, I would make sure that the carb squirts gas so it will start immediately, that will get the pressure up quicker with less dry spinning waiting for pressure.
"Dry spinning" with no load causes less wear than dry spinning upon an immediate fire-up for the reason posted above,

Last edited by Rickracer; 03-02-2010 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Added a word in bold italics for clarification...
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:09 AM
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[QUOTE=Rickracer you don't really build any cylinder pressure (AKA LOAD), till fuel and air starts burning. QUOTE]

How do you account for that 150 lbs + of compression on your gauge then?
Removing the plugs and blocking open the carb will make it easier for the engine to turn over putting less strain on the starter and battery, and will turn over faster without any compression. That is also the correct way to do a proper engine compression test, and with the faster cranking speed, oil pressure will build sooner and higher than slower cranking speed with the plugs in.

I think that is what TNOVOT was getting at.

Last edited by sqzbox; 03-02-2010 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:17 AM
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All I'm saying is all that isn't necessary, 150, even 200 psi, is NOTHING compared to the cylinder pressure generated when a cylinder fuel of full and air fires off,

Last edited by Rickracer; 03-02-2010 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:42 PM
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[QUOTE=sqzbox]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickracer you don't really build any cylinder pressure (AKA LOAD), till fuel and air starts burning. :cool: QUOTE

How do you account for that 150 lbs + of compression on your gauge then?
Removing the plugs and blocking open the carb will make it easier for the engine to turn over putting less strain on the starter and battery, and will turn over faster without any compression. That is also the correct way to do a proper engine compression test, and with the faster cranking speed, oil pressure will build sooner and higher than slower cranking speed with the plugs in.

I think that is what TNOVOT was getting at.
Exactly. Thanx for saying it better than I did.

Last edited by tnovot; 03-03-2010 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:20 PM
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As long as the battery is fully charged, the difference in RPM on the starter (and how fast the oil pressure comes up) between plugs in and plugs out is measured in seconds- as in one or maybe two.

Just crank w/o starting for 6-7 seconds (or until the gage registers). Plugs in, if it were me- and not due to laziness. Due to not being necessary, IMO.

Then start the engine.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:04 AM
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It's only been four months............. Have you had the engine running with the oil and filter that's on it now? If yes, I think you are good to start. If not, doing what you can to prime it might be the way to go even if it's just filling the oil filter before installation.
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