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4 speed guys - hey Nate!

4K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  farna 
#1 ·
Hi All,

I've got a Jerico DR4 that I'm putting in my Rambler. The only "anomaly" so far is reverse is in the wrong place. Not a problem, more an annoyance, and Jerico says this is normal. To get reverse, the shifter goes "in and back" instead of "in and forward" like normal. Apparently, Jerico doesn't offer a reverse arm that will clear the 1/2 arm on the trans. Here in my pic, all shift arms are in "neutral". Notice if you were to push the shifter forward for reverse (were it in the normal position), it would pull back on the rod and the reverse arm is already as far rearward as it will go. I do have some pix I've "gleaned" off the 'net that show Jerico boxes with reverse shift arms pointing up and would like to try one if I could find it...

Russ
 

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#2 ·
Seems like an easy fix to me. Simply flip the arm up and then bend up a rod to offset over the forward gear shaft to allow it to not interfere. May also have to put the arm in from trans side to get the proper clearance.
I've seen all sorts of exotic bent rod systems to accommodate different linkages or trans. Since you already have heim ends, you can get the rod material and bend up what works for your needs or wants.
 
#3 ·
Looks like you bent your rod...ouch.
BB427 is right in all respects

Make sure if you shorten the 'rod'; you check to see if its been threaded LH and RH. If it has, only cut the end off that you can re-thread LOL Ask me how I know; stupid LH thread lol.

I dont like aluminum tubing; too flexy. If you can use stainless or mild steel, It'd be more rigid...then again its only reverse LOL. There are some specialty heimjoints (spherical rod ends) that have different head sizes, shapes and widths that might be useful.
 
#4 ·
For tie rods, links, etc. in suspension I prefer LH/RH threaded rods. For things like this trans, I prefer both ends to be RH thread personally. Less chance of working loose and getting out of adjustment. I wouldn't use aluminum either. Prefer steel tube to stainless, as SS is so hard to cut and thread.
 
#5 ·
If I flip the arm "up", I only get half-stroke on the lever before it interferes with the 1/2 arm. The slot in the reverse arm would need to be at a different angle, and Jerico doesn't make one. Guess what I'm asking is, maybe someone could post up a pic of a standard BW or Muncie reverse arm so I could compare the slot and see if it might work...

When I got this tranny a few years ago, I scoured the 'net and found numerous pix of Jericos with the reverse arm pointing up. Looked yesterday and could find nothing that didn't point down?

Russ
 
#6 ·
That's why I suggested bending the rod once you flip the arm 180 degrees. You'll need to bend it to get proper clearance. Maybe a different arm with an offset in it might help. I'd probably find some old arms and rods at a local trans shop, and play with various setups until I found what worked. Or just live with the different reverse location.
 
#7 ·
Forget about the rods, no sense bending anything until I find an arm that actually fits and works. Flipping the arm will NOT get me reverse, as there insufficient stroke. The arm will pull rearward less than half what's needed before hitting the 1/2 arm. I can live with it like it is failing every other option...

Russ
 
#11 ·
Most arms have the rectangle mounting slot at an angle. So when it's flipped, it may also need to be flipped over to change the position, and get clearance to the 1-2 shaft. I've seen various arms with different angles, and even though this is a toploader style, you might pull the arm and take it with you to a transmission shop to see what else might give the position you need. Or cut a template out of thin aluminum that's the exact angle you need, and take that with you. Another option would be making your own arm up with the exact angle of rectangle mounting hole you need.
 
#12 ·
You can make and bend more arms, or use a longer bolt and spacer to make the end on the arm offset. The later is what I'd try first. Most stock trannys have Z shaped arms to clear.
 
#14 ·
I found a bunch of different shifter arms here, just need to decide which one has the right angle on the slot.

BTW, found out why the shifter would not engage reverse after tearing it down 3 times. It would sorta work on the bench but never after bolting it on the mounting plate. Found a "swipe mark" on the mount plate (I made from 1/2" aluminum) and realized it did not have the clearance hole/slot in it for the selector pin. Turns out no matter how hard I pulled the shifter left, the plate would block the pin from moving enough, a 1 3/4" hole saw fixed that!

Russ
 
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