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Old 09-29-2008, 06:33 PM
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40 chevy coupe

I just joined the site, I have a 40 chevy coupe, totally stripped. Need anyhelp I can get. I like to think I know basics but I am not stubborn. Thanks for anything, Tag

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Old 10-01-2008, 01:10 AM
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OK Tag, where would you like to start? What's your vision for the completed car? Big motor, little motor, vintage motor, Ford, Chevy, Mopar, Olds, Buick, Cadillac, Hudson flathead 308 six-banger? Manual trans (3-spd, 4-spd, 5-spd, 6-spd), auto trans (2-spd, 3-spd, 4-spd), aftermarket planetary air shifted? How about the diff, 8" Ford, 8.8" Ford, 9" Ford, 10-bolt Chevy, 12-bolt Chevy, 8 3/4" Mopar, 10 3/4" Olds, open, spool, limited slip?

Help us out a little bit here buddy.
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:00 AM
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I have a couple sbc 350s and a 400 trans, i will do that for now. I just got a 9 inch ford but needs to be narrowed. Car already has a mustang II clip in it but it is just mocked in. I am wondering demensions, from the back of the frame to the center of the axle and from the front of the frame to the center of the front wheel, then also wheel base. It has a 7.5??? rear or whatever was Mustang II but it is just chained in to rool around. I dont know if the front or rear are in the correct lcations. Also will probably need replacement floor pans and body pieces. Any help is appriciated, Thanks, Tag
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Old 10-02-2008, 05:58 PM
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"I am wondering demensions, from the back of the frame to the center of the axle and from the front of the frame to the center of the front wheel, then also wheel base."

Tag, these can be anything you want them to be. There's no hard and fast rule that says the wheelbase has to be a certain dimension. What is has to do is look right in the car, with the tires front to rear in the fenders to be aesthetically pleasing. Wherever they end up looking good will determine the actual wheelbase. Position the clips so that the tires look right, measure on an "X" between points at the front and rear clips so that you get the clips in squarely, then connect the clips with rectangular tubing cut to the proper lengths to fit.
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:29 PM
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Let's not get to far ahead of ourselves. Ideas we can give u, But u must learn the basics of a ground up frame off build. That is if u haven't done so already.
Is this your first frame off project? Have u been involved with other projects . Give a little about yourself in a prject journal. And your abilities. Also, will money br a problem. LO-BUCK projrct? They r more fun at your age/experience .

I would stsrt by writing down in list form what u want to do and post it where u will see it evert mornjng. That way it will always be on your mind and you will get more done.

I think I would start by dismanteling yhe car and send all the fram components u plan to use out to be media blasted. If the project will take some time then u may want to properly paint the frame, It will be much more fun to work with clean parts.
While that is being done ,mock the body up where u like i for ride height , wheel size. Get the rear u want. Go with one that is closest to the tread witdth that u want.

If the frame is ng or u want to just drop the body on an donor frame with front and rear ends all in then look around the boneyard for one with wheel base that matches your mock up That may be the fastest and easiest way to go. And definitly cheapest.

This has been done lots of times and are even how to do its in car mags, U may be able to google them.

Wish I lived next door. Sounds like a great project. I have a 31 chev nearing completion after 35 yrs, Ouch. LOL
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:41 PM
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thanks for ideas, I am trying to do it as cheap as possible. This is my first real project. I build demo deby cars which are sometimes frame off. Want to do it fast and cheap with try ing not the cut frame or body too much. I am not building a Barret Jackson car but I want to keep things nice so the next guy could. Also how do you post pics on here? I will try to get pics on so you can see the pile of steel i am working with. Thanks Tag
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:14 AM
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38 coupe project

Tag ,
I started with my frame which I stripped and repainted. I boxed it in , installed new trans and motor mounts and body mount bushings. I was given a ford 8.8 which I rebuilt. The car was a six but had a 1955 291 Desoto Hemi instead, so I rebuilt it with upgrades. My trans is a turbo 400 which we pulled from a junkyard and rebuilt. I decided to go with a Progressive Auto rear suspension , triangulated , which I just finished the measurements. Since I am installing a new floor, the bushings needed to be in 1st as this raised the floor a bit. I bought a *****in front floor kit which I'll be installing this week along with a new firewall. I mocked in the rear end to see the stance and to determine the position and angle of the driveline. Which is pretty important when you go to install that new floor. ( I've never done a new floor so it should be interesting ). My best advise is to write down your process and think everything through. One of my errors was to have a driveline built before. Now since I changed the rear susp. from leaf style , my driveline is too short ! I have to retube it. Money down the drain. Another error I made was the gas tank , having it boiled out for $100 , it was full of pin holes , I bought a poly tank instead. More $$ down the drain. I would start with that frame do that part first , do the foundation to build on 1st.
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:09 AM
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rebuild 48 chev ....

Hi...STOP,before you remove ANYTHING from car,take a camera and take pictures of all parts being removed.then print the photos,and start an album. this step will save you a ton of time,when you start reassembling the car.theres nothing more frustrating than having a bunch of parts and a big question as to where the parts go. also use a note book,to write the order of dissassembly.have fun,and welcome to the club.dont be afraid to ask questions,even stupid questions will get answered.
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