I am fixing to start building my first motor and have just finished reading all the past bulletins and need a little advice. I have 70 400 sbc #3951511 and the crank that came with it. I also have a large journal 327 forged crank #4672. I like the idea of the 327 crank in the 400 block to make a high revving 350 but am worried the spacers or bearings to make up the difference between the journals won’t stop the crank from walking and if they will how much hp can you put on it safely. Or would it be better to get the 400 crank ground and just make a 400. I don’t have the car yet but it is to go in to a 60s sport car. I also cant find any where to get the lengths for the rods and witch pistons to use I am wanting about 10 1 compression. I have the the original heads of the 400 but will probably end up but buying some heads when I manage to save up money. Any help or guidance would be very much appreciated

Go to the book store and get a book by John Lingenfelder. A lot of good info that will help you. The book is black and has him standing in between two engines. Cant actually remember the name of it. Good book! <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" />

the book is titled John Lingenfelter "On Modifying Small-Block Chevy Engines". your piston choice will obviously depend on your rod choice (or vice versa). you could use the 400's 5.565" rods and standard pistons, or 5.7" rods and pistons with a smaller compression height, or whatever other combo you can think of...

You mentioned that this motor's going in a sports car. For that reason, I chose the 400 version. Here's the reason. To me a 400 is absolutely perfect for a light auto. All you have to do is build it stock with a little massaging here and there, like porting the stock heads and throwing in a, lets say, SSI 214/224 cam and a 3.08 rear gear. This way you can keep those rpms down and still get the job done effortlessly and not make alot of noise on the streets. Also, you could get away with Rams horn exhaust manifolds (trouble free and nice sound) and 2 1/2" exhaust pipes and three chamber Flow Masters. What a nice, vibration fee, mello sounding ride that would be and as soon as you stepped on the gas, the torque would be right there and doing it this way would save you a small bundle of cash! Good luck

I purchased On Modifying Small-Block Chevy Engines had try every bookstore in town before I found it think I will probably go with the 400

[ September 23, 2002: Message edited by: limey ]</p>

should i save the medium journal forged 327 crank for when i come a cross a 350 block or should i just ebay it and se what i can get

3.08 in a sports car does not sound like fun to me. Will this car have an auto or a stick? If its a cruiser then the 400 will be great. Lug lug lug...If you want a zippy sounding and running car then I'd builder a littler motor. Though I would not go the NASCAR 358 route like the 327 crank in the 400. Heck I'd just build a 327. They're perfect for a lighter car, have great throttle response, good mileage and can do about anything a 350 can do, 'cept a bit higher. Of course you probably wouldn't want to run a 3.08 gear, maybe a 3.55 to 3.90 but hey live a little. Have something to shift. The 400 will make great power of course, but I think the 327 will be more fun all around.

Th 400 in my opinion is the only way to go. You already have the block and crank, and you can build it cheaper than the 327 because of parts availabilty. It will make more power for the money over the 327. Talk about fun to drive, the torque and power from a 400 is fun!

hot rod magazine did a story on the combo you are dooing, called the small block chevrolet should have built, i will find the story on my home computer, (have it in .pdf format somewhere) the motor comes out as an 358 cui screamer with looong rods, it made over 500 ft/lbs of tourque, and well above 400 hp on 89 octane gas, i would stick with the 327 crank

one of the tricks to that combo the short stroke allowing very long rods, 6.250 or something from a ford 300 6cyl, that are beefier than pink rods and costs 26 bucks each from paw.

but all the specs are in the artice