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Old 04-20-2007, 10:44 AM
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400 rebuild

I finally took the time to tear down the old 400 i have to see if it is worth putting a cam and heads on it and i found out that it wasnt. I took the heads off and seen that the rings had been leaking for a while took off the oil pan and started taking out pistons and found out that i needed new bears threw out the bottem end. Cyclender walls had a few good scratches from a couple broke rings. Cam bearings are shot. So therefore ive decieded to rebuild it and i want to take the time to have it all machine properly. What i would like to know is a few combos that i could do to make roughly 400-450hp and 400-450 ft lbs of torque with out having to use 110 octane because i cannot get that in my area. money isnt an issue so if you know a few combos that would work good for my application that would be great.

im also using a 700R4 tranny if that helps

Thanks

Ed

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Old 04-20-2007, 11:12 AM
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take a look.http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te..._block_torque/
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:29 AM
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what i need to know is what i should bore it out to be and what kind of pistons i need and connecting rods what kinda crank i should use what kinda oil pump is best for this application all that stuff that just told me that i need to buy a 406 short block and all the components from that manufacturer i have the block i just need some kinda information on what i should put in it and on it to make 400 hp ive never had a motor machined before and its mind boggling doing all this when you dont know what would be best for the motor i have done a few bottem end rebuilds but never did any horsepower builds so any info would help me muchly thanks for the help

Ed
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Old 04-20-2007, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
I finally took the time to tear down the old 400 i have to see if it is worth putting a cam and heads on it and i found out that it wasnt. I took the heads off and seen that the rings had been leaking for a while took off the oil pan and started taking out pistons and found out that i needed new bears threw out the bottom end. Cylinder walls had a few good scratches from a couple broke rings. Cam bearings are shot. So therefore ive decieded to rebuild it and i want to take the time to have it all machine properly. What i would like to know is a few combos that i could do to make roughly 400-450hp and 400-450 ft lbs of torque with out having to use 110 octane because i cannot get that in my area. money isnt an issue so if you know a few combos that would work good for my application that would be great.

im also using a 700R4 tranny if that helps

Thanks

Ed
If you have a good well known and liked machinist in your area you need to talk to them about how the block checks out,before worrying about combos.although it's a good idea to have a plan,don't ever tell an engine builder they have an open check book
first the block,crank,,heads,rods all need to be cleaned and inspected,the block should be sonic tested prior to machining the cylinder walls,decks cleaned up or squared,align honed,lifter bores need to be measured.
if i go threw the rebuild steps we will be here tell ........just take it to a machinist they will let you know what you have to work with.
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Old 04-20-2007, 04:18 PM
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ok thanks for the help i need to make some time to take it to oshawa its 2 hours away from where i live and talk to them about it my buddies own a machine shop here where im from but they just deal with heavy equiptment and making stuff with a cnc machine and layths and stuff like that so ill make some time and go get it all cleaned and tested and all that stuff but want i need to know is can i use the stock crank if im going to make a 406 because if not then im just going to take my block down and have it cleaned and tested and bring it back get it all spiffied up and then ill get some help from there thanks alot fellas youve been great and its well appreciated

thanks

Ed
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Old 04-20-2007, 05:36 PM
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the crank will be used,the rods will be changed to 5.7 350 rods.you may want to see if the shop will take your rods for partial trade.
hey check this out just some other ideas that could be put together,the 377 nice for horse power and the 383 good for torque.http://www.mortec.com/borstrok.htm
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Old 04-20-2007, 05:50 PM
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Only have the engine bored enough to sufficiently clean up the cylinder walls. You want to keep as much cylinder wall thickness as possible. Usually .030 over will clean up most cylinders. That's where you get a 406, nothing more than a 400 bored .030 over. You can use all of your existing major components with the exception of the pistons. The pistons you use will be determined by the amount of compression you're looking for, intended usage and overbore. 400s came from the factory with 5.565" rods and you can find pistons for your engine that are designed for use with either the 5.565" rod or the 5.7" rod. Either will work but make sure you get the right piston for the connecting rod you're going to use. If your existing rods are in good shape then stick some new ARP bolts in them and use those, they should work fine.

A bit of advice, it's much easier to decipher text when punctuation is used. Otherwise the post looks like a giant run on sentence or a bunch of garble, very hard to read.
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Old 04-20-2007, 06:55 PM
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Ok, thanks for the info my connecting rods are still fine. The push rods are all dirty should I toss them and get new ones? or should I just get them cleaned? Oh and what should I ask for when I buy the pistons? 400 Pistons that are bored .030 over? I want around 10:1 Compression, Unless that is to much for pump gas.

Thanks

Ed
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:27 PM
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You got a leaky spark tube...
 
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You need to take the block, crank, and rods to the machine shop first. They'll clean everything up and let you know the condition of your parts. They'll even knock the old pistons off the rods for you. They'll tell you how much the block needs to be bored. Once you know that then you purchase your pistons accordingly. You're going to have an idea of what size combustion chamber your cylinder heads have, head gasket thickness, block deck height, etc... to determine what piston will yield the compression you're looking for. Pick up a set of ARP rod bolts and the shop will press them in then resize the big end of the rods. Push rods are inexpensive enough to just replace entirely. Keep in mind that if you use push rod guide plates on the heads then you'll need hardened push rods.

If you've never built an engine before then pick up a how to book and read it front to back...
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:16 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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pushrods are dirty from using crappy oil- but that doesn't mean they're bad, I just clean them with some parts degreaser and fine steel wool. For a typical perforamnce street rebuild stock ones are fine. I wouldn't even have the rods cleaned- just throw them away and get some 5.7" ones with some good bolts. In the long run you're only looking at about another $50 if you just chuck them and buy some off the shelf. You're going to want cylinder ehads too if you want a lot of HP, if you're more after low end torque, stock ehads can usually get you there.
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