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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2013, 05:37 PM
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I would really recommend to use 5.7" rods if you can. There is very little selection in pistons for the stock 400 5.565" rods. The pistons available for the short rods I've seen are domed, flat, or just a 12cc dish, which will all put your compression ratio pretty high for pump gas with 64cc heads. To get the CR down to where you want with those pistons you will have to use larger 72-76cc heads like previously pointed out. There isn't as much selection of good heads in that chamber size as there is in the 64cc chambered heads. Your double hump and Vortec heads are both 64cc chambered heads. Any of the factory 76cc heads are the smogger heads of the seventies and newer, and none of them are very good for performance. A KB168 22cc D cup dish piston, 64cc chambered heads, a zero decked block with a .041" thick head gasket with 4.20 bore will give you about 9.75:1 static CR with a very good .041" quench height. Combine that setup with a cam with around 270* advertised duration would give you a dynamic CR around 8.1:1, for a very torquey engine that would run well on pump gas.

In the mid 1980's I had a 400 with flat top pistons and 76cc heads, it was right at 10:1 CR but those smogger heads didn't give a good quench, I had to run 104+ octane booster in it all the time. What a PITA! No way I would put together an engine today with poor quench and enough compression to have to do that. It was a runner, had a hard time keeping trannies behind it. In my dirt track car it was the hardest car to hook up I ever had. Took the 400 out and put in a 355, it was much easier to drive on clay dirt tracks and just as fast because it didn't blow off the tires like the 400 did.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2013, 07:22 PM
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400

Summit sells a piston set for a 400 that uses the 5.7 rods, it relocates the wristpin. I had great luck with these as they had an 18cc cup, with vortec heads that were 64cc chambers, I was running about 9.5 to 1 compression. I had a Copm Cam 274 in it and it was a torque monster. Couldn't twist the RPM's much past 5200, but it pulled hard right out of the hole. It also will hold up well because you're not running high RPM's. Hah!!!!...just looked at the last post and I guess I said the same thing BigEd told you. So...I guess I agree with his post!
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:49 PM
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Tell ya what. I'd pull the plugs and squirt oil down the cylinders,let it set and squirt more and try every which way I could to free the engine up turning it backwards.Once that was done,run leakdown,compression and any other kind of test I could think of to see if you have a good rebuild candidate.My 20' Winnie had a 195hp 350 with a 400 tranny.Run the casting number found on the back of the engine to verify it's a 400.
With some of the motor homes the engine comes out the passenger door,some come out the front with the M/H jacked up onto it's rear bumper,and still some you have to take out the windshield.It's a real PITA job that after the first one,I'm pretty sure you won't want to do another anytime soon.
I suggest 5.7 rods for the build too.Scat makes a clearance ARP bolt 5.7 rod that is a good buy.Press fit works fine.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:57 PM
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400

Gary1 is right...cant hurt to pull the plugs and pour some Marvel Mystery oil down those cylinders and see if you cant free it up. Could be a pretty easy gig of freshening up the lower end, throw a decent cam in there, bolt on a good set of heads, intake and carb...and off you go.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:44 AM
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I tried putting oil down the cyl nothing I got my breaker bar and still couldn't move it I was going pull he heads and check them but I can't get them off so IM going to pull it and get it in my shop first and then get into
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:18 PM
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Did your look at the casting numbers on the back of the block??.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:27 AM
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Yes I did they are 330817 it's a 1976 so I would think it's a 2 bolt main instant of the 4 bolt
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:31 AM
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When you can't get it freed up,it doesn't leave me with warm fuzzes.Might be ok,but a hell of alot of work to get it out of there.I do wish you luck and please keep us updated as you find out more.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:02 PM
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I pulled the water pump last week and it was full of antifreeze and it's full of oil I just about got it ready to be pulled I Jus got to get the grill and one motor mount and it should come I hope
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:47 PM
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Your going to start once out looking for blow head gaskets and OMG I hope not cracks.
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:18 PM
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It was running good when it was park back in 03 and have set ever since all my freeze plugs are good it ran fine and it was parked and wasn't messed with til I got wanting to hear it run and then I found it was locked up

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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2013, 09:32 PM
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Well as I said keep us updated on this one.Pix's on it coming out would be cool if you could find the time.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:42 PM
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I will try my best to take pic of it. If the block is bad I'll probably check in a small block Ford build. how hard would it be to put the 400 in a s10 in one like from 1982 to 1993 thanks
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:16 PM
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400

Odd that you should ask about an s-10 install. Check my pics, running a 383 stroker in my 91 GMC s-15. That 400 should drop right in with just a couple of modifications. Fairly simple stuff though. Engine mounts have to be changed and I would suggest modifying the firewall/floorpan seam...it tends to be in the way when installing the trans bolts. Use a grinder or a BFH to modify it. I'll be around should you have any questions.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:11 PM
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How would the 400 go in a 80s Mustang I know a Ford supposed go in a Ford and a chevy in a chevy but I love the 80s Mustang but I hate the price of building a Ford motor compare to a chevy and I don't mean to make anybody mad at all I just thought abt it. it's just a thought thanka
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