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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2012, 11:46 AM
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woops .38 et and .92mph (minimum)
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2012, 11:14 PM
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high 12s at 105

Ive been there and know how you feel.
There are quite a few comments I want to make,hope fully they are beneficial.If you like bigger numbers on the dyno then use a mustang dyno instead of Dyno Jet,thats not important other than for bragging rights.Check fuel delivery like already mentioned.A dyno pull is in high gear only where a race is for all the gears.If your fuel pump has nough pressure but your lines are the original diameter,you "might" be running out of fuel on the top end.That will make your MPH lower.

Like the other poster said,if you are not shifting very fast that will hurt your E.T.Please,no insult intended,,,muncies are expensive and break regularly so slow shifting may be because of the wallet.

Generally speaking,if your torque is a lot higher than your horse power then the camshaft might be too small.Hydraulic rollers are heavy and on occasion have mild valve float,so a rev kit or slightly stiffer spring may be required to get that extra 500 "clean" rpm.

2.1, 60 foot times is not very good for a mouse Camaro so traction and tire/suspension issues exist.Exhaust is always a factor.
All in all if you pick up a tenth or two in each department your car will be in the low 12s soon. Your car just needs a lot of tweeking,you are on the right track.Engine has been tuned,the rest will come quickly.
good luck
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 10:56 AM
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horsepower stumped

MY cam is a Howards hydraulic roller.
241'@ 50 int 245'@.50
578 lift int
565 lift ex
110 lsa
I know its not a huge cam but i think it should give me better results my ignition is a MSD Streetfire HEI unit with Taylor Spiro PRO 8mm wires Champion spark plugs gapped .050
Ive checked the plugs and their tanned and light brown perfect no signs of rich or lean or overheat,I think my next move is a set of dynomax ultra flo mufflers which flow more than 2.2cfm which is the minium reqiured for less than a 1/2% loss in power I dont know the Flowmaster delta 50 series mufflers I dont what their flow rate is and flowmaster doesnt post them or talk about them I called them as well to discuss flow rates and they said they dont go by flow rates .NO problem I will spend my money where I am informned with real world numbers and with companys that can satisfy my questions based on facts not advertising BS only if they can support thenumbers why not post them as you said F-Bird youre not a big fan of them and either am I now
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 11:03 AM
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It is never going to 60' good if you have a 2.20 low gear close ratio M21 Muncie and a 3.42 rear gear unless you have some massively sticky tires. And on the street, even tires won't help enough- you'll need a prepped launch pad at the drag strip to have any chance of a good 60'.

It's going to either lug, spin or you will slip the clutch too long. You might get lucky one out of ten times and get a decent 60', the rest of the time it is going to be bad. There is just a razor's edge between lugging and spinning.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sapsz28 View Post
MY cam is a Howards hydraulic roller.
241'@ 50 int 245'@.50
578 lift int
565 lift ex
110 lsa
I know its not a huge cam but i think it should give me better results my ignition is a MSD Streetfire HEI unit with Taylor Spiro PRO 8mm wires Champion spark plugs gapped .050
Ive checked the plugs and their tanned and light brown perfect no signs of rich or lean or overheat,I think my next move is a set of dynomax ultra flo mufflers which flow more than 2.2cfm which is the minium reqiured for less than a 1/2% loss in power I dont know the Flowmaster delta 50 series mufflers I dont what their flow rate is and flowmaster doesnt post them or talk about them I called them as well to discuss flow rates and they said they dont go by flow rates .NO problem I will spend my money where I am informned with real world numbers and with companys that can satisfy my questions based on facts not advertising BS only if they can support thenumbers why not post them as you said F-Bird youre not a big fan of them and either am I now
The spark plug gap is WAY TOO BIG !!!!!. reduce the spark plug gap to .035"
There are probabily many many more similar small tuning/setup details like this that are holding this motor back.
Spark plug gap .035"
holley 750 carb jetting 70-74 pri 80-85 sec.
start at 70pri-80sec jetting.

Jet for max track MPH not plug colour.
The cam you got does not start getting busy untill 3500rpm
This car needs 4.56 gears.
Re flowmaster mufflers. Instead of depending on advertizing and salesman pitches
when evaluating mufflers, try drag testing with open and closed headers.
Get some 12" to 18" header collector extensions and test with open headers at the track.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2012, 07:15 AM
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After closing the spark plug gap as suggested, you might want to try a different set of plug wires. Joe Sherman once stated he had a set of taylor wires that were costing him 38 horsepower! (bad set?) Joe said once he swapped out the wires the power cam back... Long shot, but worth a try...
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2012, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEED MASTERS CC View Post
After closing the spark plug gap as suggested, you might want to try a different set of plug wires. Joe Sherman once stated he had a set of taylor wires that were costing him 38 horsepower! (bad set?) Joe said once he swapped out the wires the power cam back... Long shot, but worth a try...

Seen a similar issue with Taylor wires too.Long time ago.
383 Chrysler big block. New pretty Taylor wires.
Missfire and a light show under the hood. (Ignition Arcing)

Changed wires, all good to go.

I use either factory GM, MSD or Prestolite wires.
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:57 PM
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Horsepower stumped

I,ve tried MSD 8.5 mm wires but had arching problems as well the plug boots kept melting where as the Gaylord have plug boots that for me have greater longevity on the plug as well have greater clearance with the 1-3/4 headman headers that I have.
As for thetranny and rear end I plan on either going with a 4.10 ratio and trmec 5speed, or a ricmond 5speed with a1-1 5gear and a 2.92 or 3.08 rear, 1st gear ratio with either tranny is3.27 the tremec has a.68 5gear and the Richmond has a 1.1 5gear which will dictate my choice of gear ratios.
As for the mufflers the dynomax ultraslow welded mufflers are going on they flow 1700 cfm each which satisfies the motors 2.2cfm per hp minimum.
In the end the car is driven almost daily and sees the track twice month so street ability and reliability are at the top of my list which until now has been great.I drove it to Montral and back with no issues and averaged 13mpg.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated as they have been up until now.

Thank You Again to all who have taken their time to help me out with my car.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2012, 05:31 PM
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I am currently using the tremec 5 spd with .82 over drive and a 3.5 rear ratio.If you go tremec make sure its new or has the updates to make the 2-3 shift faster.It just wont shift fast. Compared to the muncie its like shifting a truck transmission.Other than that it seems tough enough for my application.I dont drag race though.I have tried a few times to launch my car without good results,anything over 1700 rpm and the tires fry,under 1400 rpm and it is very slow.

Are you sure you dont have 3.73 gears?Tremec also offers a .68 overdrive if you decide you need 4.56 rear gears.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2012, 09:49 PM
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Horsepower stumped

I have had the rear end apart and the ring gear is stamped Richmond,3:42 my tire is 28 inches tall measured fully top to bottom with a straight edge and from the axle centerline X2 it's a firestone fire hawk 255/60/15 ,still can't understand why I rev 2900 @ 60 mph?. The teeth on the ring gear are 41 and the pinion teeth have 12 which comes out to 3:41666=3:42 .Going through the traps I'm pushing 3rd gear @ 6600rpm I can't figure it out .in the end I figure the dyne could either have not been calibrated or there was some funny business going on.in 1st gear @2200 rpm when I floor it the rear tires light up like Christmas tree no clutch dropping just pedal to the metal I'm going to try a mustang dyne with and without the exhaust hooked up to see if my flow masters are holding anything back,if they are then a higher cfm rated muffler will be put on.
PS has anyone ever had any problems with the MSD STREETFIRE HEI Unit.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sapsz28 View Post
I have had the rear end apart and the ring gear is stamped Richmond,3:42 my tire is 28 inches tall measured fully top to bottom with a straight edge and from the axle centerline X2 it's a firestone fire hawk 255/60/15 ,still can't understand why I rev 2900 @ 60 mph?. The teeth on the ring gear are 41 and the pinion teeth have 12 which comes out to 3:41666=3:42 .Going through the traps I'm pushing 3rd gear @ 6600rpm I can't figure it out .in the end I figure the dyne could either have not been calibrated or there was some funny business going on.in 1st gear @2200 rpm when I floor it the rear tires light up like Christmas tree no clutch dropping just pedal to the metal I'm going to try a mustang dyne with and without the exhaust hooked up to see if my flow masters are holding anything back,if they are then a higher cfm rated muffler will be put on.
PS has anyone ever had any problems with the MSD STREETFIRE HEI Unit.
The thing that makes the most sense is a tach that's out of calibration. You could have clutch slip, but if you did I'd expect you to smell it and notice the degraded hook up and/or chatter that happens when the clutch plate and flywheel/PP glazes from slippage.

There are thousands of MSD Streetfire distributors running just fine. But that doesn't mean you couldn't have a bad one. Easiest thing IMO is to swap it out for a known good unit- even a stocker, as long as the advance curve is correct.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2012, 11:47 PM
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61 MPH should be 2500 RPM with 28" tires and a 3.42 axle.
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:55 AM
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Horsepower stumped

I have tried 3 different tachometers 4 if I include the factory one ,they were an auto gauge,auto meter z series, and a sun pro all set at the 8 cylinder setting where applicable,as well with a timing gun with a digital readout on it and all of these pieces showed the same rpm across the board in neutral and under load as well as the dynojet dyne I've been on unless my tranny's 4th gear is not a 1.1 final drive but I'm not prepared to open her up unless she's broken,
As far as the 220cc AFR full cnc race port heads are concerned does anyone think they will make enough of a difference over the RHS 200cc's I have now aside from the bigger runners the afr's have 2.10 intake valves versus 2.02 I now have exhaust remains the same at 1.60, and the afr's flow45cfm more than the rhs's, as well from the hydraulic roller set up I will go solid cam flat or solid roller I've not decided yet ,my hydraulic roller set up is
241int@50 245ex@ 50. 541int lift 565ex with 1.5 rockers, all howards products.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 09:21 AM
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your heads are more than adequate.Flow test them and see what the porter says?Once you have flow tested your heads you can determine if your current cam is the correct choice or if you need more. Local guy here has similar heads on a 10.8s 350 powered 68 Camaro.He too is using a smaller cam similar to yours except solid.vic junior manifold,flowed HP holley,etc.not a street car anymore but still streetable.
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Old 07-15-2012, 12:12 PM
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horsepower stumped

I definately want to keep the streetability and reliability aspect of the car,up untill now I've kept both although the cam is stretching it a bit my wife is still using it as a grocery getter,I quite sure the tremec with a 4.56 or 4.33 will make a world of difference.68* the 4.56 will give me a 3.10 final drive the 4.33 would give me a 2.95 final drive, I tgink I will port my RHS 200's and put in a 2.08 intake valve perhaps I'll switch springs from comp cams 987's to a beehive setup for less reciprocating mass and valvetrain stability. Thanks again everyone. As far as ignition wires go, again the taylors give me the best clearance issue on the plug side,perhaps i'll go with a different wire but taylor plug ends,i'll try a 1/2 inch phenolic spacer for some more air should I stick to a 4 hole to keep it dual plane or an open spacer, will it affect the air flow that much,anyone ever try it.
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